BOULANGERIE POILANE 普瓦蓝面包房坊

Walk anywhere in Paris, and you’ll see small signs hung in café windows that say, “Ici,paun Poilane.” “Here, we serve Poilane bread.” It is a point of pride to server large slices of this traditional rustic bread hewn from distinctive grand   rounds , which are correctly named miches but have for decades gone by the name pain Poilane, to honor their maker. While you can find Poilane in Parisian cafes and supermarkets, it is always worth the journey to go to the boulangerie on rue du Cherche-Midi.

走在巴黎街头，到处都可以看到小小的一个招贴挂在一个个餐厅的橱窗上以招揽顾客，上面写着“Ici,paun Poilane.” 就是“我们供应普瓦蓝面包佐餐”。能提供一片片用古法制作的普瓦蓝面包是每个餐厅引以为傲的事情。 这种外表粗糙的圆肚黑面包，严格的来说，它的名字叫Miches.但数十年来都是被称作普瓦蓝，这是民众为了表达对这种面包制作人普瓦蓝的一种敬意。在巴黎的咖啡店和超市都能买到普瓦蓝。无论你是否是面包爱好者，即使作为一个观光景点，位于协和须弥地街的普瓦蓝面包坊总店，都是值得一看的地方。

The shop, established in 1932 by Pierre Poilane, a first-generation baker, and now---and for many years---under the dedicated proprietorship of his son, Lionel, is storybook perfect. The front room, line with wooden bread racks and filled with the alluring scent of flour and yeast, is a study in browns, each shade a hue found in a loaf of bread. The shop is so beautiful that you might not notice the small back room, an office of sorts. Ask if you can peek, and you’ll find it is covered from floor to ceiling with paintings and drawings, each in a different style, but all on the same subject: bread. The first canvas came from a customer, an artist, who paid off his bread bill with a painting. Soon others followed. It is an eclectic collection, topped off, literally, by a chandelier crafted in bread, made for the surrealist Salvador Dali.

1932年普瓦蓝家族的第一代面包师皮埃尔.普瓦兰在巴黎开了家面包店,多年后的现在，普瓦兰也传到了他的儿子利昂内尔的手上。在柜台的前面，排列着一个个木制的面包陈列架，弥漫着香甜诱人的麦香。面包的割痕与木架的色泽相互呼应，使得店面的色彩显得浑然一体的美丽，以至于你可能留意不到柜台后面那一间小小的工作室.如果可以，请求店家是否可以让你参观一下。你会发现从墙壁到天花板，挂满了以面包为主题的不同风格的油画和素描。这里的第一幅画作来自一位画家，当时的他画了一幅画用来为他的面包付账，很快别人就有样学样起来。最终这里形成一个兼有多种风格画作的收藏室。这时千万记得要抬头看一看，天花板那垂挂的吊灯是用面包精心制作的，是为了超现实主义画家萨尔瓦多.达利而做的。
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But the heart of the boulangerie is in the vaulted basement, where the breads are fashioned by hand, raised in linen-lined baskets, and baked in the wood-fired brick oven. There is something magical about the space, the heat from the oven, the aroma from the dough, the coolness from the stone walls, and the cloistering embrace of the low arched ceiling.

面包房的中心是在拱形的地下室里。在这里，面包经手工整形，放进套着亚麻布的藤篮里发酵，最后送进传统的柴火炉子烘焙。整个空间像个魔法屋，烤爐散發出香噴噴的熱氣將人籠罩包圍，石头墙壁带来一丝丝的凉意，拱形的天花板拥抱着回廊。http://s11/middle/a26021f6gc7072df85dba&690

I remember, with great clarity, the first time, fifteen years ago, that I followed Lionel Poilane down the worn steps to see this centuries-old bakery. That day, M.Poilane, who is scholarly, encyclopedic, poetic, and passionate on the subject of beard, recounted his beginnings as a baker.

我记得很清楚，在十五年前的一天，我第一次跟着莱昂内尔.普瓦蓝沿着那古旧的台阶下到地下室去看有些年头的面包作坊。那天，那个有着翩翩风度、博学、充满诗情画意的，對麵包懷抱極大熱情的普瓦蘭第二代經營者里歐奈．普瓦蘭，向我讲述了他当初是如何成为一个面包师的故事。http://s11/middle/a26021f6gc701d5bf55fa&690

When he was fourteen years old, his father had brought him to the boulangerie and said，“Now you will begin your apprenticeship,” The youngster, small and thin, artistic and creative, had known for years that this world be his life, but it was only when it became real that it became unimaginable.“I used to bury myself in the bags of flour in the corner,” he said, pointing to where the flour is still kept today, “ and cry, trying to keep my sobs from being heard. I did not want to be a baker. I did not want to live underground. I could not bear the thought that this world be my lot for years to come.”Then one day, the young Poilane had an epiphany. He said,“I opened the oven door, looked into the red-hot hearth, and though,‘This will either be the door to my prison or the door to the world.’”Anyone who knows that pain Poilane is a household word throughout France and that Lionel Poilane has extablished bakeries in Tokyo and Loudon, as well as outlets in the United States, knows what that oven door became.

当他十四岁的时候，他父亲把他带到面包作作坊并告诉他说：“从现在起，在这里开始你的面包学徒生涯。”这个有着艺术气质和创造力的瘦小少年其实早就知道，这里将是他的世界。但是当它真正来临时还是觉得难以想象。“我曾经将自己埋在角落的面粉袋中间哭泣”，他说，并指给我看对面堆放面粉的那个地方，“以免被人听到我的哭声。我不想做个面包师，我不要生活在地下室。我实在不能忍受以后要整天呆在这样的地方。”然而有一天，年轻的普瓦蓝突然醒悟过来。他说“当我打开炉门，看着火红的炉台，心中有一个念头，这扇门要么将我困在这里，要么是一扇帮我打开通向世界的门，关键是看我怎么做。”这扇门带来啦怎样的结果呢？如今普瓦蘭不僅是全法最負盛名的麵包店，并在东京、伦敦开有分店，包括美国在内十多个国家更是每天從巴黎空運以饗饕客，刻有普瓦蘭「P」字形的招牌麵包，也成為全球麵包愛好者心中的夢幻逸品。

Considering how devoted Lionel Poilane is to bread, it borders on surprising to find sweets for sale in his shop. What is not surprising is that the sweets – there are only three: flan, apple tartlets, and butter cookies called Punitions – are as exquisitely made as his bread. But then, who would expect anything less from a perfectionist?

在专业做面包的普瓦蓝店里，让你感到惊奇的是居然还有甜点出售，虽然只有简单的三种；蛋奶布丁、苹果塔、奶油饼干。并且这款奶油饼干还有个奇怪的名字——惩罚！精致一如它的面包。然而普瓦蓝的什么东西是不完美的呢？

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有关普瓦蓝面包，更详细的介绍，米菜叶的博客里有详尽的介绍，看这里

图片来自网络，翻译也很不到位，欢迎指正。

如果想山寨普瓦蓝，这里有个链接，个人认为是目前最好的山寨版。http://blog.sina.com.cn/s/blog_5e15a7120100gobe.html