据NPR新闻,很多美国年轻人离开农村,2002年美国农民平均年龄55岁。近年很多城市长大、受过大学教育的年轻人种植有机农场。近日250人参加研讨会探讨种植和养殖技术。他们以“实际的理想主义”重界与环境和食物的关系,反抗垄断大企业,日本和台湾也有类似倾向.
For decades, as young people have been leaving farms behind, the
average age of the American farmer has been rising. The last time
the government
counted farmers, in 2002, the average farmer was
55-years-old.
But there's a
new surge of youthful vigor into American agriculture — at
least in the corner of it devoted to organic, local food. Thousands
of young people who've never farmed before are trying it out.
Some 250 of them gathered recently at
a gorgeous estate in the Hudson River valley of New York: the
Stone Barns Center for Food and
Agriculture in Tarrytown.
Some of these young farmers already have their own farms. Some are
apprentices, working on more established farms for a year or two.
And others are still just thinking about it. But the overwhelming
majority of farmers here at this conference want to farm without
chemical fertilizers or pesticides.
They were
there to learn skills — from seminars on soil fertility, handling
sheep, and how to find affordable land — and just as importantly,
to meet each other. In the evening, they played music and
danced.
They represent a new breed
of farmer. Very few of them grew up on farms. Most of them went to
college. And now, they want to grow vegetables, or feed pigs.
I had to
ask them: "Why?"
Some talk
about what they hope to accomplish.
"It was born
out of a concern for the environment," says Brian Bates, who plans
to work at a farm in northern Michigan after he graduates from Penn
State. "I spent the first two years of college with one question in
mind – basically, how can I have the greatest impact in my life in
the world. And the thing that I kept coming back to, that everyone
connected to, was food."
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Steven "Shepsi" Eaton and Liz Moran are expecting a baby and say
they hope to start their own farm soon. "[Farming] isn't to make a
living," Moran says. "It's to create a certain lifestyle for myself
and for the people around me".
Others
say that they simply enjoy the work, the style of agrarian life,
and the connection to food.
"I feel lost
when I'm not farming, when I'm not out in the field. It's where I
find the most peace and harmony in my life," says Liz Moran, who
helps manage Quail Hill
Farm in the eastern end of Long Island, New York.
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"When I look
around, and you're amongst the plants and the sunshine – that's my
office, that's where I want to be," said Rodger Phillips, who grows
food on an urban
farm in Hartford, Conn.
Others talk
about the satisfaction of doing something practical, creating
something valuable. "Having a skill was really important to me.
Having studied political science, I wanted to do something that was
productive, that was real. To have a real skill, and be able to
provide my family, my community, a vital element," says Kristin
Carbone, who runs Radix Farm in Upper Marlboro,
Maryland.
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And then
there was Lindsey Shute. "How did I get into farming? Because I
started dating a farmer!" she says with a laugh.
This is
an idealistic crowd; nobody says that they're doing it to make
money. Some describe their farming as a kind of protest against the
idea that success means a big paycheck, or as a protest against an
economy dominated by big corporations.
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Lindsey
Shute's husband Ben has been running his own farm in
Tivoli, New York, for ten years now. He says that the great thing
about farming is that it's a really practical form of idealism.
"It's all well and good – and important – to have political
opinions, and protest, and things like that. But when you're
farming, you get to live your values, and farm the world that you
want to see," he says.
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Nobody
knows exactly how many young farmers like this there are. They
certainly don't produce more than a tiny sliver of the country's
food. But they do seem to be part of a real social movement.
Organic farmers who used to spend part of the winter recruiting
workers for the next summer now are turning people away.
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This
conference, which started four years ago, sells out. This year,
it sold out months ahead of time.
But along
with the enthusiasm, I heard uncertainty and even some anxiety —
about making enough money, or whether they were quite ready to
settle in one place for good. Many said that their parents wish
they were doing something else – something less risky, and
better-paying.
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It made
me wonder whether they'll really be able to stick with it.
So for a
little perspective on this generation, I looked up a real old-timer
of the local, organic food movement: Jim Crawford, who runs
New Morning Farm, in south-central
Pennsylvania. On weekends, he gets up before 4 a.m. and brings
vegetables to markets in Washington, D.C.
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When
Crawford looks at today's new generation of would-be farmers, he
sees himself, when he was younger. "I had exactly the same things
in my head forty years ago," says. "Exactly the same."
In 1972,
Crawford was in law school in Washington, D.C., and working on
Capitol Hill, but not enjoying it much. Through happenstance, he
ended up running a vegetable garden in West Virginia one summer. He
really liked it, and got got more serious about it. But soon the
summer was over.
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"I didn't
really want to go back to law school in the city, but I knew I had
to," he recalls. "So I went back, and I walked into law school ...
and I said, 'I'm just not going to do this! I'm going to go the
other way!' So I went back out outside, and went back out [to West
Virginia]."
Farming —
the work, and the independence, and the connection to something as
important and real as soil and food — was the one thing that he
wanted to throw himself into. And he's been doing it ever since.
But it wasn't always a big happy folk dance.
"I can
remember feeling kind of desperate, and having many failures, a lot
of failures, in the first couple of years of growing crops and not
really knowing what I was doing," he says.
But
there's one thing he had, and it's a big reason why he's still
farming. He loved the business side of it: finding customers and
making a living on his own.
That
sense of farming as a business is probably the biggest thing the
young farmers have to learn, he says. It's what he preaches to the
young apprentices who come to his farm to work. (He's had more than
200 such apprentices over the years.)
Ideals
are great, he tells them. "But if you're going to stick with it,
and expect to make a living at it, you've got to be realistic about
the business aspects: Money, and managing money, and borrowing
money, and all the things that a business person has to do. And you
have to accept that, and learn to like that – somewhat, at least –
and be willing to be good at that."
That may
mean compromises, he says. Maybe it means burning a little more
fossil fuel, so you can get your vegetables to a city, where people
pay higher prices.
That's
OK, Crawford says. Making tradeoffs, but holding onto what's most
important - that's what growing up is all about.