Agrapart 'Mineral' Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2005 

Extra Brut Champagne (750ml)

*Although not certified, Agrapart adopts organic practices in the vineyard;

*Agrapart virtually never chaptalizes any of his wines;

*1st fermentation is done with indigenous yeasts;

*Malolactic fermentation is completed for all the wines;

*No fining, no filtration, no cold stabilization

*The vintage 'Mineral' always comes from the same two parcels of Chardonnay: 'Le Champ Bouton' in Avize and 'Bionnes' in Cramant, which share virtually identical soil composition: a hard, white chalk underneath a mere 30 centimeters of topsoil.

'Mineral' is Agrapart’s chalkiest champagne.

*For this Cuvee, 'Le Champ Bouton'(Avize) parcel is vinified in stainless steel tank and

'Bionnes'(Cramant) in old, 600-liter demi-muids, and the two are blended together in equal proportions.

*Disgorged in 2012

*Dosage: 5g/l

Tasted in March, 2014

Lemon yellow robe with hints of green. Energetic effervescence of very fine beads.

This does not taste like a 2005 at all! So youthful, racy, incisive & energetic, without a single trace of 05’s ‘famed’ fatness, heaviness or over-ripeness.

Initially, the nose is charged with racy, greenish notes of green pear, green olive, green apple & kiwi, enhanced by incisive chalky scents. On the palate, energetic mousse & electrifying acidity drive the incisive, savory chalkiness to the fore, making it thrilling yet really demanding. Seems the green, racy character of stainless steel vat fermented Avize parcel is dominant in this initial stage.

With more aeration & as it loses the initial chill, more charm & textural completeness are revealed. Ocean air, dairy & white pepper enchants the nose, while silky & slightly oily fruit caresses the palate. The oak effect (to texture) & the refinement of Cramant are lovely! The finale is still terrifically lifted & focused on bold, pure chalkiness.

Admirably youthful & vivid for a 2005 bubbly, this strikes a fine balance between transparency of terroir and textural refinement.

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Agrapart 'Mineral' Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 2006: succulence & freshness

Disgorged in April 2013

Dosage: 5g/l

Tasted in Feb, 2015

First served upon popping the cork. Pale Mirabelle yellow robe, boasting juiciness & richness even before the first sip. Soft, delectable aroma of Mirabelle, enhanced by racy scents of lime & dusty chalk. Just a sip, succulent Mirabelle sweeps the board. So seductively soft & juicy. And it’s lifted & electrified by racy acid & bold mineral.

With more aeration, the aromas become more complex & heady: savory mineral & yeast complexed fruit (yellow apple, Mirabelle & lemon). The palate gains more pronounced vinosity. The succulence of yellow apple & Mirabelle is enlivened by vivid freshness of mint. Long & fragrant finale, with vivid details of Mirabelle, lime & chalk.

This is both enjoyable and intellectual. A thoughtful balance between succulence and freshness, richness and raciness.

Having tasted 2 versions of ‘Mineral’ (05 & 06) both around 2 years after disgorgement, I admire not only Agrapart’s impeccable use of stainless steel & big, old oak vats, but also his judicious approach towards dosage – 5g/l is almost the maximum allowed for ‘Extra Brut’, but also quite the minimum needed for mid term cellaring… Thoughtful lad, indeed!