Champagne made entirely from Chardonnay has been produced since at least the early 19th Century but the term blanc de blancs is relatively new on the scene.

Literally meaning "white of whites", blanc de blancs has its roots in Champagne, but was initially used for still wines, not sparkling. “My grandfather sold a Côte des Roualles Blanc de Blancs from the 1934 vintage, but it was a still wine. We did not label Champagne as blanc de blancs until 1947," explains Didier Gimonnet of Champagne Pierre Gimonnet.

So how did blanc de blancs Champagne gain a following? In Casino Royale James Bond considers ordering a 1945 Taittinger, but the sommelier suggests 1943 Taittinger Blanc de Blanc [sic], which the hero approves, remarking that it is “not very well known” but “probably the finest Champagne in the world.”

 

Chardonnay Rules

In Champagne most white sparkling wine has traditionally been produced from a majority of black grapes. Local producers needed to differentiate their wines made solely with white varieties, hence the term originated in Champagne. Theoretically a blanc de blancs Champagne can include one or more of the following grapes: Chardonnay, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Pinot Blanc.

While the last three so-called ancient varieties have enjoyed a minor revival of late, they still represent less than half of one per cent of all the vines planted, thus you can assume all blanc de blancs Champagnes to be pure Chardonnay, unless specifically stated on the label.

Blanc de blancs are often described as the lightest Champagne, thus they make an ideal aperitif, but that is to undersell this style. Chardonnay-based Champagne takes a long time to to open up and evolve, so a blanc de blancs that may start out as the sparkling equivalent of a Muscadet can end up as rich as a Corton-Charlemagne.

 

The 5 Best Current Release Blanc de Blancs

1. 2000 Krug Clos du Mesnil

The late Henri Krug once explained that Clos du Mesnil makes itself, thus whoever looks after the barrels at the clos itself effectively makes or breaks this wine. The wall or clos makes this vineyard extraordinary. When you walk through Clos du Mesnil, you feel cut off: not only from the rest of the village, but the rest of the world. In summer, you can hear, almost feel the hum of insect life, as bees and butterflies go about their daily work.

The 2000 vintage of Clos du Mesnil is the clear stand-out among all the blanc de blanc Champagnes currently available. Its combination of immaculately integrated oak and seductively rich Chardonnay is nothing less than mesmerizing. It is sumptuous and yet perfectly poised. At the table, I cannot imagine what would not gracefully accompany such a great Champagne.

 

2. 2002 Palmer & Co Blanc de Blancs (magnum) Dominated by Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims, this unusual blanc de blancs is the signature wine of this little-known, high-quality cooperative. It has exceptional strength with an almost Pinot Noir-like minerality that makes it stand out from the crowd.

Magnums of the 2002 are as hard to find as gnat’s milk, but the degree of finesse the larger bottle format brings to its rich, gorgeously toasty fruit and its outrageously cheap price make it more than worth the drive to Reims to buy direct for anyone living in France or one of its surrounding countries. Champagne aficionados who live elsewhere will just have to hope and pray they eventually ship magnums your way.

 

3. 2005 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs
Loïc Dupont must be the most underrated grande marque chef de caves. Not because the quality of Taittinger goes unnoticed, but because his name is not heard very often and he deserves much credit. The 2005 Comtes de Champagne has been impressive from the day it was launched, but over the last few months it has hit a magical sweet spot that all great Champagnes eventually reach and it promises to remain there for the foreseeable future.

Typical of Comtes de Champagne, the 2005 is the epitome of elegance, grace and minerality. In some ways it is the very antithesis of the Clos du Mesnil, yet it almost matches it in terms of pure quality and – who knows – maybe one day it could even overtake it. I just love the ethereal lightness of the toasty notes, which is indicative of its slow and graceful evolution. So fine, with such great acidity, I had this recently with a tarte tatin à la tomate and it was pairing made in heaven.

 

4. 2002 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs
Although totally different to the Comtes de Champagne, this shares a similar ethereal toastiness and promises to be just as slow and graceful in its evolution. It was made by Dominique Petit, who was appointed chef de caves in 1999 after 24 years at Krug, who switched house styles with admirable dexterity. I have always believed this Champagne to be of deluxe cuvée quality and to be undervalued. 

The 2002 is certainly one of the best blanc de blancs this house has produced, with its beautifully soft and silky mousse dancing as light as a feather across rich, creamy fruit. Ideal on its own, with a light fish course, a heavy meat dish, a soft cheese or a bowl of green walnuts, this blanc de blancs proves ridiculously easy to drink.

 

5. 2008 Chartogne-Taillet Heurtebises
For my fifth blanc de blancs, I had no less than 11 outstanding Champagnes I could have recommend with equal conviction, including three grower Champagnes. I went for the Chartogne-Taillet Heurtebises for several reasons. It’s a grower and the four above are not. Admittedly, a number of Chartogne-Taillet's wines have been oxidative to one degree or another, but this is not. 

As Chardonnay takes so long to blossom, it is always good to find a youthful blanc de blancs of this class, especially when it is from a truly great vintage like 2008. In fact it is the classic acidity of 2008 that gives this impressively rich wine a ramrod-straight spine and it would be infanticide to drink, if not for the softening effect of its velvety mousse. Drink now to 2028.

 

看完 Tom 以上所推“目前在售的五款最佳白中白香槟”，我忍不住要吐一下槽:

1. 这个“目前在售的最佳”要怎么看？从Tom 的上述选择，我只能去理解为目前买的到，且目前最好喝的（最容易喝的），也就是没有多考量酒的陈年实力; 否则前五名里没有 DOM RUINART 2002 和 SALON 2002 是难以令人信服滴......(就香槟而言, 05年份与02年份的档次差距实在是......)

2. 2008 Chartogne-Taillet Heurtebises 吹这酒陈年能力 "Drink now to 2028" 实在是过了......我不是说其原酒本身不可能会有此底气, 而是因为08年份现已卖出, 其带渣陈酿期(bottle ageing on lees)过短, 从相当程度上剥夺了此酒除渣后的进一步陈年能力, 加之又是 EXTRA BRUT (DOSAGE 太低), 二个因素相叠加, 这酒除渣后若能养上五年而不氧化掉, 就烧了高香了! (2028年这款还能喝, 只有一种可能, 就是届时去Chartogne-Taillet香槟庄喝2028年才当场除渣的这款酒, 但这显然与上文主题不符......)

 

My 5 Greatest Blanc de Blancs Ever

These are the greatest ever blanc de blancs I have tasted over the past 35 years. Mature vintages of all styles of Champagne have to be tasted at, or purchased directly from, the producer’s cellars to live up to legendary reputation. A recently shipped late release from a reputable merchant is fine, but the same vintage that has been in distribution since its initial release will look, taste and smell like sherry.

 

79年份是 KRUG CLOS DU MESNIL 出的第一个年份. 71年KRUG 买下该葡萄园后分批重种新藤, 即79年时相当部分的葡萄藤藤龄还很年轻. 而88年份与79年份是同一档次的年份, 时间也许会最终证明 KRUG CLOS DU MESNIL 1988 比起 1979这个光环耀眼的首秀年份更加伟大......

 

=============================================================================================

后记：

我忍不住把 COMMENT 直接贴到 WINE-SEARCHER.COM 上，看Tom 会不会有反应

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Comments 

• Eric Gu wrote:

05-Apr-2014 at 03:56:14 (GMT)

 

Hi, Tom

 

So exciting to see your new series here(and at such frequency!), after getting hold of the excellent revision/extension work of your bubbly encyclopedia by Essi!

 

For this one, firstly appreciate your revision of the very statement "Salon appears to have been the first house to exploit commerically a blanc de blancs Champagne", which is still in the 3rd edition of bubbly encyclopedia. Your new statement here is of importance for bubbly geeks. (I believe 'Blanc de Blancs' appeared even later on Salon magnums labels, presumably starting with magnums of 82 vintage, as I have seen both 71 & 76 Salon magnums with old white label without blanc de blancs wording)

 

Then, regarding the best 5 from current release:

1. It surprises me first that Dom Ruinart 02 does not make top 5 here. The legacy of the late Jean-Francois Barot, ex Chef de Cave of Ruinart, DR 02 is so tight & densely packed with aromatics & flavor extracts, well deserving the title of "one of the very best 2002s".  Then I realise you might mean here 'the top 5' current release that drink effortlessly 'sweet' at the moment...as DR 02 surely deserves more cellaring to achieve its pinnacle!

 

2.For me, craziest secret in current release is that the late Daniel Thibault's legacy, Blanc des Millenaires 95 is still in current release! Been on the market for 5 years or so with at least 3 different labels (presumably different disgorgement versions...) And Charlie's Blanc des Millenaires 96 has not seen the world yet! How mighty it would be?

 

3. I have yet to secure my bottles of Salon 02. Fingers crossed that it would live up to huge expectations from such a famed vintage of intensity!

 

4. Ref Chartogne-Taillet Heurtebises 08, I have serious but needless worry about its drinkability till 2028. Serious worry coz it received so little lees aging period before disgorgement for a great 08 vintage would deserve, coupled with low dosage of extra brut...Needless worry coz so tiny amount of grower single-vineyard bubbly might not be spared at all till 2028 anyway...

 

As for the 5 greats ever, I guess only time will tell whether Clos du Mesnil 88 would eventually outperform the inaugural 79 vintage.

 

Thanks & Cheers!

Eric Gu,

Shanghai, China

A bubbly lover benefitting so much from your logic in wine!

 

 

Tom 的回复：

============

Comments

Thank you Eric. When I first tasted the 2002 pre-releases of almost all the most famous prestige cuvees, Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs was far and away the most outstanding. Being not entirely convinced that the longer on yeast, the better or, indeed, greater lived, a Champagne will be, I ordered one case of bottles and one case of magnums disgorged there and then, to be available with a further case of bottles and magnums when they are eventually released. I looked forward to following how the two different disgorgements of two different bottle format would age and develop over the years. Unfortunately, when the DR02 was released and I requested collection, Ruinart discovered that it had lost track of my original disgorgements, so I will never be able to follow the different developments, but I think that unfortunate experience and your comments do warrant that I should take an in-depth look at as many different disgorments of DR02 and report back.