Sulfur
dioxide & dosage (added sugar after
disgorgement) are necessary evils for champagne
& sparkling wine!
If one would agree/admit that
champagne/sparkling wine, by second
fermentation, is by
nature one of the most artificial categories of
all wines, then don't be so pretentious with
low sulfur/ zero dosage to make
champagne/sparkling wine seemingly more
natural!
Never before has champagne's
post-disgorgement ageing capacity been so doubtful
under current vogue of
low sulphur/low to zero dosage regime!
Champagne, after being so reductive during
second fermentation, is exposed to such an
impact of oxygen during disgorgement that
it really needs addition of sulfur dioxide to
protect it from accelerated
oxidization. While minimal dosage deprives
champagne of achieving potential
complexity through Marlliard
reaction.
At its best, low sulphur/low dosage champagne
offers maximum transparency of wine at the cost of
post-disgorgement ageing capacity & potential complexity.
Thus it's meant to be consumed as soon as
released. But, more often than not, when
it finally reaches its followers,
it's already frustratingly oxidative or
oxidized...
Finally, what's the real difference between a
champagne connoisseur and a normal consumer, if one might
ask? It lies in the knowledge of champagne's
post-disgorgement ageing capacity & the very judgement of the
same through tasting. But current vogue of low sulphur/low
to zero dosage regime is doing nothing but making
a mockery of those champagne connoisseurs
who respect/admire champagne's ageing capacity
& potential complexity.
If winemakers of natural wines 'seek purity of
their work rather than perfection of the result', that's fine. But
it's upto the consumers if they are willing to pay for
those 'natural' but 'imperfect' (could really
become defective, and not just 'sometimes')
wines...
A frustrated champagne lover with less &
less options of champagne that can
age...
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