Tom Stevenson为 WINE-SEARCHER.COM 写的香槟专栏第二篇.

( 原文链接: www.wine-searcher.com/m/2014/01/tom-stevenson-s-best-grower-champagnes )

Tom Stevenson picks his way through the minefield of grower Champagnes to list his favorites.

Posted Tuesday, 21-Jan-2014

It sometimes seems that I give growers a hard time, but it’s not completely true: I give all Champagne producers a hard time. That is because they start off with the world’s best terroir for brut-style sparkling wine and, weather permitting, should end up with something special in every bottle, even at entry level. When other sparkling wine producers work so hard to produce Champagne-like quality from less suitable terroir, it is only right that Champagne failing to live up to its origins should be subjected to a steely gaze.

Growers can produce exceptional-quality Champagnes and there are many passionate, talented growers doing so, but even the best and most consistent are, in my experience, less consistent than the best and most consistent houses. Conversely, the worst or the most boring houses are more consistent at producing bad or boring Champagnes. Why should this be?

A part of the problem, I believe, is due to dynamics of scale. Micro-vinification by research scientists in a laboratory seldom yields anything approaching the same quality and style as exactly the same wine produced from the same source of grapes in barrel or tank in a full-size winery. This implies an optimal minimum size for winemaking and, when you factor in the technology involved in Champagne, even one produced by the most non-interventionist winemaker, the optimal minimum is likely to be greater than that required for non-sparkling wines.

So, it is not as easy for small growers as it is for larger producers but they still have the advantage of the world’s best terroir for brut-style sparkling wine and I refuse to drop standards when assessing their Champagnes. I reject the claim that a grower Champagne is more of a wine than a Champagne. Champagne is a wine: it is one of the great classic wines of the world and I expect its finesse to shine through, whoever produces it, be that a house or a grower or a cooperative. There should be no excuses. I agree with Elisabeth Chartogne of Champagne Chartogne-Taillet, who says: “A small producer's Champagne doesn't have to be rustic or inconsistent.”

Stevenson's Selection:

Agrapart (Avize) for terroir, value and finesse. Pascal Agrapart used to be just good 10 years ago, but now he makes some really quite special Champagnes. I’m not a big lover of zero-dosage Champagnes, but try his Vénus Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature. Best of the lot: Minéral Blanc de Blancs.

Paul Bara (Bouzy) for the richness of its pinot noir-dominant wines. It also offers value for money. Managed by Chantale Bara, the malolactic fermentation is avoided to preserve freshness. Try Spécial Club for classic, pinot-dominated Champagne, and Comtesse Marie de France for an expression of pure Bouzy.

Emmanuel Brochet's wines (Villers-aux-Noeuds) are getting pricey, but deservedly so for the precision and purity of his organic Champagne. The freshness of Le Mont Benoit Extra Brut can defy logic, and it is another non-dosé exception to the rule. Well, my rule anyway.

Guy Charlemagne (Le Mesnil-sur-Oger) has always had the potential to produce blanc de blancs of great complexity, but used to suffer from too much oxidative barrel handling, and now the wines show far more freshness, focus and purity. The second-to-top rung Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs is my current favorite.

Gaston Chiquet (Dizy) offers fruit and great value. This grower is currently in vogue and is widely used as the pouring Champagne in UK bars and restaurants. Although this has exposed the entry-level non-vintage cuvée, Carte Verte, to a wider audience, this fresh, fleshy Champagne producer has not faltered. For a real treat, try his Blanc de Blancs d’Aÿ in magnum.

Pierre Gimonnet Champagnes are a pure expression of chardonnay and extraordinary value. Based in the foothills of the Côte de Blancs, he has a classic blender’s philosophy, so you won't find any single-vineyard cuvées here. By no means perfect, but as consistent as any grower, all of Pierre Gimonnet’s Champagnes show beautiful focus and minerality. The very best, however, are the previous vintages held back in magnum and sold as Millésime de Collection.

Serge Mathieu (Avirey-Lingey) has established an enviable reputation for elegance and value from immaculately manicured, almost organic vineyards in the Aube. Try Tradition Blanc de Noirs or Millésime Brut Blanc de Noirs.

Pierre Paillard (Bouzy) produces an excellent range headed by Les Mottelettes, a rare and wonderfully incongruous pure chardonnay blanc de blancs from Bouzy.

Vilmart (Rilly-la-Montagne) is without doubt one of the greatest grower estates in Champagne. It was a pioneering biodynamic producer, when run by René Champs, but this property has taken a step back to so-called sustainable viticulture under his son Laurent. Many of the organic and biodynamic practices are still laboriously undertaken but, on the northern Montagne in Champagne’s borderline climate, Laurent prefers a slightly more flexible system, albeit one that is regulated and certified (by Ampelos). It’s a judgment based on experience and the result is an immaculately managed property.

These are oak-dominated Champagnes, especially at the top tier, Coeur de Cuvée, but if I am going to have oak with my Champagne, then Vilmart is the way to go, although I’m often happier with the non-vintage Grand Cellier and vintage Grand Cellier d’Or (it depends on the vintage). There is no malolactic here and unusually for the northern Montagne de Reims, the cuvées are dominated by chardonnay (70-80 percent). In fact there used to be a delicious Blanc de Blancs Brut at the very entry level, below Grande Réserve, and in the near future Laurent will be launching a new Coeur de Cuvée Blanc de Blancs.

I could have probably listed 20 or more top growers, but I wanted to keep the list tight and focused, and I wanted to leave room for three bespoke Champagne producers who are not, technically, growers. They are, however, three of the most amazing finds of the new generation of Champagne makers. Two are, in fact, Négociants-Manipulants and one is even a Négociant-Distributeur, which at one time would have had me thinking “own label” wines, but nothing could be further from the truth for these very personalized productions.

Cédric Bouchard (Celles-sur-Ource) is a so-called Négociant-Distributeur. He produces in absolutely minute volumes of single-parcel Champagnes under the Jeanne des Roses label and is a genius. Try them all, if you can find any!

Dosnon (Avirey-Lingey) is also known as Dosnon & Lepage, but Simon Lepage has long since left the business. However, the operation is so tiny and new (2004 was the first year of production) that Davy Dosnon cannot afford to change the original labels! The magnums are to die for.

Jacques Lassaigne (Montgueux) makes the most amazing range of unique, deeply resonating chardonnay of Montgueux and they were favorites of the late, great Daniel Thibault of Charles Heidsieck.

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除了Tom 以上列出的出色酒农香槟, 我个人非常欣赏的其它酒农香槟还有:

Larmandier-Bernier  -- Terres de Vertus /  Vieille Vignes de Cramant

Diebolt-Vallois -- Fleur de Passion

Georges Laval -- full range!

Collard-Picard

Marc Hébrart

Éric Rodez -- Cuvée des Grands Vintages