这二天刚拿到 Richard Juhlin的香槟新著<<A scent of Champagne>> (我自己给这本书起了个中文名:槟芬), 一看Richard自序, 我就乐了, 结尾一句 'Life is too short to drink Spanish cava!' 太直接了! 好!

虽然我也没喝到过品质能上档次的cava, 但我个人的信条是 Life is too short to drink bad Champagne!

消费者别跟着起哄去神话一个Appellation. All Champagnes are good -- 这哪里可能?

    翻着Richard新著, 不免叹息我的偶像 Tom Stevenson快退休了, 很少听到他的声音了.忽然收到酒友 Donny微信 "Tom Stevenson 最近那篇关于5家最被高估的与5家最被低估的香槟酒庄的文章, 对市场会有影响吗?"

我还没看到呢, 光听文章名字就够劲爆啦! 赶紧上 WINE-SEARCHER.COM 拜读, 那料是相当滴猛啊! (看看原文下的读者评论, 也相当滴猛啊!)

    将英文原文转贴于此, 再中文加上我个人一点点观察与思考.

 

    原文联接: http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2013/12/champagnes-overachievers-underperformers

 

                   Champagne's Overachievers & Underperformers

The reputation of Champagne as the world’s greatest sparkling wine is so well ingrained in the public psyche that consumers are often hoodwinked into thinking that something is right, when clearly it is not. Many otherwise astute wine drinkers have been persuaded to believe that faulty characteristics in some Champagnes are not only acceptable, but actually desirable.

More nonsense is spouted about Champagne than any other wine. The danger begins when a famous producer goes downhill, yet still receives acclaim, or when an intrinsically faulty Champagne develops a cult following. Some merchants and critics erroneously describe flawed characteristics as indications of autolysis or maturity, about which they obviously have little or no understanding. When overtly oxidative, sherry-like aromas are highlighted and eulogized as a point of difference in a hand-crafted Champagne, I know that the wine world is going to hell in a grape basket. That is how some Champagnes become so famous, expensive or have such a vociferous cult following that few dare to criticize, but I shall try to buck that trend:

THE 5 MOST OVERRATED CHAMPAGNE PRODUCERS 

Bollinger

If Bollinger was a human being, I would say that it was having a mental breakdown. This is a house that is able to cherry-pick the greatest, most talented chefs de cave in Champagne, if it so desired. Yet Matthieu Kauffman became the first chef de cave in Bollinger’s history to walk out earlier this year, and other staff in important positions have also left. This would have been unthinkable during the reign of the former chairman, Christian Bizot, let alone that of his aunt, Madame Lily Bollinger. 

It saddens me to say, but this famous Champagne house has serious oxidation problems. Looking back at my own published notes, I can see that 12 to 15 years ago, Special Cuvée was oxidative in 75-cl bottles (but not in magnums), the vintage was as clean as a whistle, and the Recently Disgorged (RD) had occasional dodgy disgorgements, but the Vieilles Vignes Françaises was regularly one of the greatest Champagnes produced. Now, however, an excessive degree of oxidation pervades every cuvée.

It saddens me because I remember this house with much warmth when Bizot was in charge and I could pull his leg about how aldehydic the Special Cuvée was in 75-cl bottles. We drank it as an aperitif while my wife helped his wife prepare lunch in the kitchen.

The oxidation throughout the Bollinger range is the result of no sulfur (SO2) being added when the Champagnes are disgorged. Even without sulfur, it is possible for some bottles to shine for a limited period, which explains why I was so bowled over by a sumptuous 1998 Vieilles Vignes Françaises a couple of years ago that I scored it 20 out of 20. Unfortunately, the oxidative shock of disgorgement is something that will inevitably lead to excessive acetaldehyde aromas, which are caused by the oxidation of ethanol and impart apple cider or sherry-like notes, unless protected by SO2.

Ironically, Bollinger recently introduced a retro-style of bottle with a narrower neck to reduce the rate of oxidation, but it merely reduces the unprotected, when all that is required is to add SO2 after disgorging. Or, better still, SO2 and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).  

The solution to all of its problems is under its nose: the Station Oenotechnique de Champagne sells an SO2-Ascorbic mix called Sulfiscorbate. If Bollinger can grasp the reality of what is happening to its Champagnes, all of its troubles would disappear.

 

整篇文章我最感到疑惑的部分就是这里对 BOLLINGER 如今过于氧化的批评.去年到今年,我喝过的 BOLLINGER 新上市的 NV, GRANDE ANNEE 04, GRANDE ANNEE 04 ROSE 都没有过于氧化的问题, 实际上我的感觉是 BOLLINGER 新酒比以前更"干净"了, 氧化更少了, 尤其是 NV SPECIAL CUVEE. 当然, 我现在酒柜里没有在养 BOLLINGER 的新年份酒, 不知道如果养下去会怎么样.

但今年从酒庄代表那里听说 BOLLINGER 总酿酒师主动离职的消息, 还是令我非常吃惊.   

 

Jacques Selosse

Much worse than Bollinger and more expensive, too. In blind tastings for international wine magazines, I have tasted with critics who rate these Champagnes very highly and wine merchants who sell them at fantastic prices, but when they encounter Selosse under these blind conditions they ask for a replacement bottle! I agree, of course, but I also advise that any back-up bottles will likely be exactly the same, which proves to be the case. When there is a back-up, these tasters have agreed that it, too, is oxidized and marked it down as faulty. If there is no back-up, it is still written off as faulty, yet those very same tasters continue to wax lyrical about Selosse!

After I wrote about this a few times, some critics and wine merchants amended their descriptions to include “sherry notes”or “sherrified” as part of the complex aromatics of Selosse, whereas before it was always about the Burgundian style (in which “sherry notes” would be neither acceptable nor excusable). Anselme Selosse’s philosophy (if it can even be called that) includes, but is not restricted to, growing riper grapes, oxidative handling in barrel, and using very little SO2 – almost all of which is added when the grapes are harvested, normally with no SO2 after disgorgement. This is back to front. If you are going to restrict yourself to adding SO2, then save it until the end and let the yeasts hoover up oxygen during the first and second fermentations.

To give the man his due, he claims not to be dogmatic about anything, which leaves him wriggle room without losing face, but his ideas have spread to an expanding group of adoring acolytes.

 

喜不喜欢Jacques Selosse, 各位自行选择. 但不能否认, 他的影响力非常大.

从现在酒价来看, Selosse无疑已被炒爆.比JS性价比高的选择实在很多.但,这就是膜拜酒嘛...以我个人经历,喝到过于氧化的Selosse的风险确实很大, 但有一次DONNY请我喝的SUBSTANCE殊为惊艳! 不管怎么说, Selosse是富于'试验'精神的. 特别是如果您好 SHERRY 这一口, Selosse的氧化对您就不是问题, 甚至是福音吧...

对于喜欢德国甜白,ALSACE,BURGUNDY的香槟爱好者们,Selosse就未必是你的菜了.

 

Jacquart

Nothing faulty with these Champagnes, but the quality has not rocked since the days when the CRVC (Coopérative Régionale des Vins de Champagne) produced Jacquart and would win gold medals by the bucket-load. Since 2006, Jacquart has been produced by COGEVI (aka Collet), as well as Pannier and Vve Devaux. These producers can and have produced good Champagnes in the past, they just need to pull their fingers out with the Jacquart cuvées today and in the future. The first release of the newly launched Cuvée Alpha was a big disappointment.

 

Jacquart '霞卡'我没买过, 也没蹭喝过. 大合作社香槟品牌. 现在是几个合作社联合给他供葡萄. 要命的是, 这几个合作社又各有自己主推的品牌...

讲个笑话, 某年在上海市中心某超市我在香槟柜台随便看看, 营业员热情介绍Jacquart是很多好莱坞明星收藏的香槟, 毁了, 我再没看他第二眼. 我理解为什么 LOUIS ROEDERER 不在乎JAY Z了, 他不喝 CRISTAL 更好, 这对 CRISTAL 形象有正面帮助!

 

Gosset

I cannot understand why these Champagnes are getting so oxidative, as the chef de cave, Jean-Pierre Mareigner, has made some stunning Gosset vintages over the years. Furthermore, the highly skilled Odilon de Varine, a former chef de cave at Deutz and Henriot, was brought in specifically to ensure that quality would be maintained when Gosset increased the production of its higher-end cuvées; that worked so well that he is now the CEO. Gosset has moved from its relatively old premises in Aÿ-Champagne to the stainless-steel emporium of Château Malakoff in Épernay, where all the requisite technology should be available to avoid oxidation.

 

很伤心的是, TOM这段批GOSSET, 我感同身受. 这二三年我买的 CELEBRIS 98, CELEBRIS BLANC DE BLANCS MV 都刚上市时很精彩, 但才养1-2年就"老熟"得非常快! 到后来, Johnny一听说我又带了GOSSET就摇头. 我很不甘心啊! 希望 GOSSET 找出问题所在! 现在 GOSSET CELEBRIS 02又出来啦, 我又准备买来尝鲜, 但是木有勇气去养它了...      

 

Henri Giraud

When I read a glowing review of Giraud’s 2002 Argonne, I had to taste it. I raved about Henri Giraud’s 1993 Grand Cru Fut de Chêne in the U.K., prompting a skeptical Jancis Robinson MW to ask me, "Is it really that good?" To which I replied, “It really is."

Although there have occasionally been a few flashes of something approaching the brilliance of the 1993, my opinion of this producer has become increasingly more jaded as his Champagnes became clumsier and over-oaked, while his prices rocket to obscene levels for such quality.

The favorable review of the 2002 Argonne raised my hopes, but they were sorely dashed: the wine was a disgrace! I can only assume that the level of acetic acid is within E.U. limits, otherwise it would not be legal to sell, but it rates as one of the most volatile Champagnes I have ever come across. Anyone who thinks this is merely a matter of opinion, or who has reviewed this wine favorably, or has it in stock and might be concerned, should have a bottle analyzed.

 

1993 Grand Cru Fut de Chêne 拜Johnny所赐, 尝到了. 才三千瓶产量, 尝到是缘分.

93这瓶果与酸超赞, 才把橡木味都压掉了吧... 后面的96,98等,橡木味确实突兀了点.02价格又炒上一个新台阶, 免了, 跟不动啦.

 

 

THE 5 MOST UNDERRATED CHAMPAGNE PRODUCERS

Although Champagne has every advantage when it comes to producing a classic brut style of bottle-fermented sparkling wine, it is not all plain sailing. There are always undercurrents beneath the deceptively smooth surface of Champagne quality, with some producers doing a lot to improve. Surprisingly, it is some of the most traditional names that are making the most radical changes.

 

Charles Heidsieck

You might think this house could not possibly be underrated. Lots of critics heap praise on Charles Heidsieck, right? Of course they do, but I don’t think any acclaim this house has received has ever been sufficient. After more than 30 years' intensive experience and a great deal of mature reflection, I have ripped up my old list of Champagne’s greatest producers and started afresh with Charles Heidsieck firmly at the top. There are other great producers, but none that can match the consistency of Charles Heidsieck cuvée for cuvée, from the basic non-vintage through vintage to prestige cuvée. Every single Champagne in the Charles Heidsieck range is stunning. There are no duds, not even slight disappointments. Prices have risen over the last year or two and yet it still represents amazing value, with the NV Brut Réserve ($55 average price on Wine-Searcher) beating many famous vintages hands down.

 

Charles Heidsieck '哈雪'的年份酒与 顶级款BLANC DES MILLENAIRES 一如既往的好. BLANC DES MILLENAIRES 到现在才出到1995年份, 96还屏住木有上市呢. 牛!

但是, 最新版的 NV (不管你获多少奖) 还是让我们这些被以前 MIS EN CAVE系列的浓郁丰盛所宠坏的小孩有小失望了. 也不错, 新版较线性,更突现矿物感. 但是, 老版 MIS EN CAVE 及 BRUT RESERVE 给你 CHARLES 自己挖的坑太深了, 要超越过去那种辉煌品质, 谈何容易? 这我们理解(所以说我们已被宠坏...)

 

Piper Heidsieck

The most-improved Champagne range of recent times, with only the luminous-pink non-vintage rosé disappointing. The Non-Vintage Brut ($41) is so good these days and it is often sold in bars and restaurants for less than the retail price in shops, which makes it my current NV of choice. The vintage Rare Millesime Brut is every bit as good any Charles Heidsieck.

 

好吧, 对于不了解的朋友, 这里我得补句台词: CHARLES HEIDSIECK '哈雪' 与 PIPER HEIDSIECK '白雪' 是一家老板, 同一酿酒团队, 2块品牌. 典型资源共享.

PIPER 的 RARE 从98年份以MAGNUM复出, 99年份, 02年份都有出750. 酒真是华丽, 对得住这包装. 朋友你嫌 CHARLES HEIDSIECK BLANC DES MILLENAIRES 出的太慢, 那千万别放过 RARE 02. 现在酒庄放出声音要把 PIPER NV 品质做上去, 大家喜闻乐见啊! (难怪 CHARLES HEIDSIECK NV 不再那么 RICH 了, 资源总量是有限的啊...) 

 

Veuve Clicquot

Under the new chef de cave, Dominique Demarville, the Yellow Label, which is actually orange, has become the fastest improving non-vintage Champagne of all the major houses. When you consider that Veuve Clicquot is the second-largest house with a production of up to 18 million bottles, most of which is non-vintage, this is some achievement.

The secret is four-fold. Firstly: a reduction in the number of vintages declared to a maximum of three every 10 years, diverting the cream of more crops to the non-vintage.

Secondly, the purchase of 30 oak foudres, which act like condiments and their careful application can make all the difference to a blend.

Thirdly, an increase in the amount of reserve wines: from 25 percent five years ago to the current 35–55 percent.

And fourthly, a full 12 months post-disgorgement aging before release. which softens the mousse and reveals finesse.

The first really big jump in quality came with the current Yellow Label (which is 2009-based); the next cuvée will be the 2010-based and is due to be released in December 2014.

When it comes to magnums, the 2007-based cuvée is currently available, but if you wait until early next spring, the superior 2008-based magnums will be released. The 2009-based magnums will be even better (2008 and 2009 are the two greatest vintages of the first decade of the new millennium), because, under Clicquot’s new vintage policy, 2008 was declared, but 2009 was not, thus all of 2009’s very best wines ended up in the 2009-based Yellow Label or stored as reserves for future use.

 

VCP YELLOW LABEL NV 凯歌黄牌是我此生自己掏钱买的第一瓶真正的香槟 (张裕"大香槟" 现在不能这样叫了,也许是我们很多70年代生人所最早接触到的起泡酒,现在知道了, 那个是苹果发酵的,不是葡萄的酒...)

那是2000年, 因为凯歌黄牌的果与酸, 力量与细节, 我爱上香槟. 几年前喝的 VCP 02年份也非常令人难忘. 听到这里说关于凯歌要削减中挡年份酒的年份数量, 提升黄牌NV, 太好了! 

唯一要投诉的是, 虽然凯歌香槟的外围配件设计那么赞(背后老板是LV), 凯歌的酒标设计,尤其是年份酒的酒标设计, 对不起酒, 对不起观众啊! 

 

Moët & Chandon

Regrettably, success breeds as much cynicism as prestige, so when Moët & Chandon sells 30 million bottles, there are plenty of consumers who think the Champagne it produces is more about numbers than quality. Well, it could be, but it is not and never has been. The vintage here has always been known as a great buy, particularly in the U.K. where the trade would sell the non-vintage and squirrel away the vintage for their own enjoyment. Perfectly cellared bottles and (especially) magnums of Moët vintage age as long and as gracefully as most other vintage Champagnes: the 1921 is one of the greatest Champagnes ever produced, and the 1911 was still on miraculous form at the age of 100, when it was mesmerizingly fresh and even had a hint of effervescence.

The direction of Moët vintage began to change in 2000. Georges Blanck, who was chef de cave from 2000 until 2005, began the process. He started to focus on reflecting the year more than the house style, and increased the time between disgorgement and shipping.  However, tasting past, present and future Moët vintages from 2000 to 2010 in their freshly disgorged state, it is easy to see that another, even greater sea change occurred in 2005, when Benoît Gouez, the current chef de cave, took over. His 2008 and 2009 will be amongst the very best in the entire region, but it is Moët’s non-vintage that he has set his sights on.

This single cuvée represents more than seven per cent of the total production of the Champagne region and yet, contrary to popular opinion, it has always been one of the most consistent non-vintage Champagnes on the market. Now it is beginning to get exciting, as Gouez pushes the boundaries in terms of both production and blend. But don’t let the label dictate your view: you have to taste it blind to believe just how good it is.

 

2000年前后, 我喝到的 MOET NV 令我非常不以为然, 太没性格. 但是我承认, 2年前一次朋友生日派对夜店里喝的 MOET NV (后来才得知是08年基酒款的), 让我很惊叹! 正因为不是盲品...可见对MOET的有色眼睛颜色多深! 产量最大的香槟品质能认真些, 绝对对这个产区整体有积极意义! 没办法, 小众的玩意儿虽没量但吸引关注, 使大品牌也不得不思变!

 

Palmer

One of the least-known cooperative producers, Palmer is without doubt the most under-rated of all Champagne’s cooperatives in terms of both quality and value, with its vintage Blanc de Blancs its signature cuvée. The point of difference with this blanc de blancs is that it is composed primarily from full-bodied Chardonnay grown in Trépail on the Montagne de Reims, with a splash of fruity Chardonnay from the Côte de Sézanne. A specialty of Palmer is its magnum stocks of mature vintages: the 1985 Palmer Blanc de Blancs in magnum is to die for!

 

去年在香港WATSONS WINE CELLAR 买的 PALMER 85年份白中白750标准瓶, 才700港币不到. 虽然只惊艳10分钟就出土文物一样香销玉陨, 但那10分钟还是惊艳的嘛!