Diebolt-Vallois ‘Fleur de Passion’ Brut Blanc de Blancs 2004 Champagne (750ml)

* 100% Chardonnay selected from Diebolt’s best parcels of old vines in Grand Cru Cramant;

* 1st fermentation entirely in old, 225-litre barriques, without malo;

* maximum production per vintage: 15,000 bottles (only 3,000 bottles were made for the

inaugural 1995 vintage)

Tasted in end Nov.

Upon uncorking, racy scents of mineral, white tea leaf & white flowers, instantly followed by

waxy fragrance of Asian pear & menthol, escaping from the bottle. Though the bouquet is still 

discreet, the class is unmistakable. Lingering scents of lime blossom & cream on the cork.

Re-sealed with Champagne stopper and left to develop.

First poured 2 hours after uncorking. 

Bright, pale golden robe with hints of green & silver. Ultra fine beads swirl & rise leisurely.

Racy scents of crystalline chalk & lime blossom first greet the nose, then instantly taken over by

heady, unctuous aromas of orange peel oil -- the oak effect is sensually displayed.

The palate is sleek & filigreed, with impressive intensity of flavors for its ethereal balance:

clementine, hawthorn & lemon zest, mingled with fine bitterness of orange peel oil on the mid

palate. The finale is racy & pure.

The marriage with well seasoned oak blesses the wine with extra dimensions of texture &

completeness. Yet the core of flavors is still classically racy, steely & demanding: the spicy

minerality penetrates the silky gown, gripping & framing the whole thing.

Racy yet sensual. Intense yet ethereal. ' Fleur de Passion ' -- what an apt name!

With further aeration, the expression of minerality & acidity is even more assertive, with the

mineral tone going from fine spiciness towards pronounced salinity (combined with

spiciness) and the acidity feeling more steely. Then it's gradually rounded off by increasingly

luscious sensation of fruit (clementine, hawthorn & lemon on the mid palate, and grapefruit more

evident on the finish).

Towards the end of the tasting (around 3 hours and a half after uncorking), an accelerating iodine

tone pervades the nose & the palate.

With refinement & character coming hand in hand, this is one of the best examples of the

exquisite fruit of Cramant, the Grand Cru in Northern Cote des Blancs.

The current release of 'Fleur de Passion' 04 was disgorged between 09 & 10. I can't help

wondering what level of glory it could inherently attain, should more lees ageing be

affordable...