
All photos by courtesy of "远峰一青"







http://www.krug.com/en/Prestige.aspx#InternalLabel=7
Krug Clos du Mesnil
1995 Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Tasted in April
2009
Straw yellow with
golden hue. Very delicate effervescence.
On the nose, lime,
apple, orange peel, walnut,
acacia honey and vanilla,
with only slight notes of
iodine. The impression from the nose is
that this bubbly is already in
the process of evolution, yet the noticeable acidic citrus aromas
hint it's still far from maturity.
The first attack on the
palate is tight and concentrated citrus fruit with
depth of sea salted orange
peel. The many
tiny yet vigorous bubbles perform waves of
'teasing' massage to your tongue. The complexity
lies in subtle flavors of honey
and walnut. Finishing
with mouthwatering acidity as well as echoes of
lingering malt sugar. Best to be served between 10
- 12 deg.c.
This is a champagne of
warm, welcoming and smiling character -- not only
on the nose and palate, but also in the body feel
- I feel my stomach warmed up with each swallow! I
have to admit that at this stage of evolution, Clos du Mesnil
95's acidity is a touch
too dominant, yet all my friends enjoyed it very
much because of its warm character! With such
classic acidity and concentrated fruit, this one shall
be better after 2015!
Krug claims the distinctive note
of honey to be one particular characteristic of
Clos du Mesnil, in addition to the elegance of
Chardonnay and the mineral aromas of terroir
from Le Mesnil. As opposed to Salon, I feel Krug
Clos du Mesnil is more gentle in nature, while Salon is more about
purity and wildness. I guess this
has to do with two key factors: 1) Clos du Mesnil is a wall
enclosed vineyard, thus
having a slightly warmer and more stable
microclimate; while Salon's vines are located mid slopes without
wall enclosure, thus more exposed to Mother Nature; 2) Clos du
Mesnil, starting from 1st vintage of 1979, is
always 100% first fermentated in small old
oak barrels - the Krug way to bear the Krug
taste...while Salon switched to
stainless steel vats for first fermentation since
1976 vintage to seek extreme purity of fruit and
terroir. This is a matter of style with the result that the more
gentle taste of Krug is more appealing to the
general public than the austere and extreme Salon.
Yet a classic Salon at its peak
can provide such wild
and jaw-dropping terroir
wine experience that one could
never forget.
P.S. My other Clos du
Mesnil vintages tasting experiences:
- Clos du
Mesnil 1988, tasted in Feb
2003
Such a
mountain-stream-pure experience! The feel of spring! My
best Clos du Mesnil experience so
far. With Clos du
Mesnil,
personally I prefer bud to
blossom...
-
Clos du Mesnil 1990, tasted in Oct
2007
A great disappointment. The fruit seemed overripe
and the palate is not clean.
Though Richard Juhlin
appraised Clos du Mesnil 1990 to the heaven, I
would have to agree with Tom Stevenson that Clos
du Mesnil 1990 is no
good. Tom said Clos
du Mesnil 92 is actually better than 90, so I look forward to
tasting 92 in coming
years!
增补: 鸣谢小P提供 KRUG CLOS DU MESNIL
1995 品酒过程记录
18:25開瓶
開瓶時,有明顯的陳皮、柑橘以及些許堅果香氣,香氣直接而強烈,F
body,口中陳皮味強,酸度高但帶有一種溫暖的感覺而非冷冰冰。(酒温近14 DEG.C)
10~25min,舒服的青檸、陳皮與礦物香氣,口感飽滿而氣泡只有些許但不失平衡,finish不短,一樣有那溫暖的酸度作結尾。(酒温12-13
DEG.C)
50~60min,香氣相似但更加奔放且合諧,感覺到平衡度極佳的氣泡與口感,而finish有些許的苦,而這苦更感覺到此酒的深度。(此段時間表現最好,酒温10
DEG.C左右)
1.5hr,香氣漸變單一,主要以陳皮與麥芽糖為主,而酸度也略為突出,平衡度稍為欠佳。
105min,陳皮、木桶、青檸香氣令人舒服而不刺激,口中飽滿香氣四溢,finish酸沒有先前的突兀,整體表現良好。
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