La Grande Dame 1996 brut Champagne by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, 75cl bottle

(Disgorged on Jan 12, 2004; bought in Shanghai @ RMB1,580 in April, 2008)

Tasted at home on May 18, 2008

Pale gold. Effervescence is delicate and steady.

First attack of yeast on the nose but very soon gave way to elegant white flowers mingled with fresh and sweet citrus fruit. When further evolved, orange peel and even slight note of sea smell. Chardonnay dominated nose.

When first served well chilled (around 9 DEG.C), elegantly light-hearted and fresh palate. Then a burst of intense acidity as the wine slightly warms up in the glass. When further evolved, acidity is no longer aggressive and La Grande Dame's trademark sour-sweet fruit(candied lemon and haw) dominates the palate in a perfect combination of freshness and intensity. The lingering finish of sour-sweetness and walnutty creaminess is mouthwatering.

Compared with the La Grande Dame 1995 tasted in early 2001, this 96 vintage is surprisingly young with much more freshness and vigor, yet accessible now and instantly charming. Such vigor means good ageing potential - really worth stocking up and tasting at 5 years'interval to experience her evolution. A truly decent tribute to Barbe Nicole Ponsardin (Veuve Clicquot), the vigorous perfectionist pioneer of the House. 

* La Grande Dame 1996 is based on a blend of eight Grands Crus traditionally used for this wine. The blend is dominated by Pinot Noir grapes (62.5%), which come from Ay in the vallée De la Marne, and Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay and Bouzy in the Montage de Reims. The Chardonnay grapes, (37.5%) come from vineyard plots in Avize, Oger, and Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs.