'Collection Paris' Champagne brut NV by Duval-Leroy

(Bottled in 2001: base wines from harvest of year 2000 + reserve wines; disgorged in 2006;

bought in Shanghai @ RMB600+ in May 2008)

Tasted at home on July 13, 2008

Pale gold with delicate bubbles.

On the nose, firstly a flush of orange peel soon gave way to elegant white floral notes mingled with hints of hazelnut and honey. Very lifted perfume style nose dominated by Chardonnay.

When served well chilled, it's delicate on the palate, with such lifted mineral smokiness through your throat that you really felt like enjoying a very fine, light and slim

cigarette. This is the champagne for those who appreciate light and delicate smoking.

As the wine gradually warmed up and evolved in the glass, it gained weight and became more creamy, but the core and finish became bit too bitter.

This is very stylish and elegant now, but the key is to serve it well chilled.

* It's hard to believe that 'Collection Paris' is actually a blend of only 40% Chardonnay and 60% Pinot Noir. Guess Duval-Leroy's fine Chardonnay vines in Premier Cru Vertus and prolonged ageing (5 years on lees which is very rare for a NV) have much to do with the result that it tasted like an aged, malolactic fermented blanc de blancs.

Herve Jestin, Duval-Leroy's ex-Chef de Cave