Dear Cherry,
JW Marriott has launched a special global program to differentiate its brand from all other hotel groups worldwide. It is called the JW Marriott Wine Ambassador Program and in China Johnny Chan and I are supporting this program and participating in their events. During a meeting about this program with Aymeric Le Boucher, Director of Restaurants and Josef "Peppi" Schuppler, Director of Food and Beverage, we were informed of an upcoming special wine dinner event, billed as “A night with Geir Skeie at the JW’s California Grill. The winner of the 2008 Bocuse d’Or Europe and the 2009 Bocuse d’Or World final presents NORWEGIAN SALMON AT IT’S BEST. Enjoy a taste bud opening cocktail party and fantastic 6 course menu paired with Champagne and surrounded by stunning Shanghai city views starting from 7 pm on the 40th Floor at JW’s Lounge Bar!” With such an introduction, how could I resist? I immediately signed up to review this event and here are the mouth-watering results!
Johnny and I arrived early and went to JW’s Lounge Bar for a Martini and to take some pictures in JW’s California Grill just down the hall. There I met my old friend Nancy, the waitress who took good care of me 4 years ago when I did my first review of JW’s California Grill. It was great to see her and she proved to be even more professional as this night wore on. I returned to the scene for the specific purpose of doing this review in support of the JW Marriott Wine Ambassador Program. The views from the 40th floor are really spectacular and give a good feeling for Shanghai’s beauty and sophistication. After a brief meeting with Aymeric and Peppi, we got into the Pol Roger Brut Reserve Champagne and 6 Norwegian Salmon appetizers that were being passed around the bar area by the smiling staff members. These were: 1) Asian Cured on Won Ton Skin and Wasabi Mayonnaise. The won ton was fried and crunchy and the salmon smooth with a hint of Wasabi mayonnaise. 2) Tartar, Rye Bread Crostini, Sour Cream and Caper. Toast with raw salmon slightly smoked with sour cream and capers. 3) Shashlik with Onions and Cucumber Relish. Lots of flavors and textures, with the onions coming on strong and the cucumber light and cool. 4) Ceviche and Pickled Beet Root Skewer. Equal squares of each. Soft Salmon and crunchy beet root with full flavor. 5) Smoked, Blini, Apple Chutney and Chives. Thinly sliced on a bread base with a nice apple chutney. 6) Terrine, Cauliflower Puree and Herb Salad. Very smooth with nice herbs. Great with the Champagne!
Li Haiming, Restaurant Supervisor, sat us at our table with a good view of what was going on. 6 different sea salts were on the table and ready to go. Scarlett Wang served the water while Sally Zheng served the bread. Nancy Zhang poured more Pol Roger Brut Reserve. Peppi introduced 30-year-old Chef Geir Skeie, who has classic Viking looks; tall, thin, and handsome with blond hair and bright blue eyes. He gave a little talk about the first course, Appetizer - Salmon Marinated with Nordic Spices Served as a Salad with Egg, Cucumber, Dill, Apple and Horseradish Cream. The Pol Roger had a very fine bead and was refreshing and cold with a creamy and yeasty mouth feel, going well with the horseradish cream. The salmon, cucumber, some beets, and apple were served in squares, the salmon elegant and cool and smooth with lots of flavor and was well accompanied by the dill. The cucumber was crisp and cold and refreshing while the beets were crunchy with typical beet flavors. The egg was poached, medium and cold which was new to me and very nice with sea salt already applied. The apple was tart and sweet and the row was salty. I tried most ingredients with the horseradish cream, which was muted yet tasty. Wow, this cold dish covered a wide range of flavors and textures, great with the Pol Roger Brut Reserve Champagne. It was a surprising and interesting start to the meal and quite satisfying. Very impressive! Leo Li brought the next Champagne, Barons de Rothschild Brut, while Oliver Webster, Executive Sous Chef introduced the next course. Soup – Parsley Nage, Baked Salmon, Root Vegetables, Salmon Skin and Caviar. George Zhou brought my soup, which smelled great. The Barons de Rothschild Brut was crisper and less robust than the former Champagne, while the salmon was baked to a dryer consistency that was moistened by the flavorful soup with squares of root. Renee Shen poured some more Rothschild for me, which was going down quite easily. The dry skin eaten with the salmon offered a great combination of crispy skin and flavorful salmon, accented by the smooth and flavorful soup, another delightful surprise! Scarlett brought the next Champagne, Pol Roger Pure, while Vivian Li refreshed my old glass, which I sipped while waiting for the next course. Roger Dong brought the Hot Start – Warm Pickled Salmon, Parsnip Ravioli, Sorrel Pesto and Lemon Foam. The salmon was not pickled in the usual way where the meat would be saturated with the process, but instead it was only accented with the pickled flavors. It was simple, very tender, and full of flavors. The parsley ravioli was also different than I expected and had a spicy feeling I cannot quite describe because it was so different. I was still drinking the Pol Roger Pure Champagne, which was different and delicious. I had never heard of “Pure” Champagne, but luckily another guest, a Master Sommelier from Champagne, France, explained it to me. “Pure” is made primarily from Pinot Noir and aged longer on the lees, another new discovery for me! Renee brought the next course, Sorbet – Persimmon Sorbet with Aquavit Caviar. The sorbet was ultra smooth, almost like ice cream, and the saltiness of the caviar complimented interestingly with the persimmon flavors. Of course the unique Norwegian liquor Aquavit, which travels around the world in barrels on ships before it can be bottled, added it’s own flavor touch. Very interesting and fine, I never had a sorbet with caviar, nor with Champagne, and this Pol Roger Pure was quite a treat, even with sorbet. Emiel Vandewiele, a Food and Beverage Trainee from Belgium refreshed our Champagne and had a little talk with us about the great dinner we were enjoying. Very professional, I don’t think he will be a trainee for long. I also had a nice talk with Edward Gao, Assistant Manager, about the former restaurant manager Jean-David whom I thoroughly enjoyed during my previous visits to JW’s California Grill. He has since moved on to another Marriott property in Europe. Scarlett brought our next Champagne, Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2000, while Chef Skeie announced the next course, the Main – Salmon 40 Degrees with Capers and Cauliflower in Different Textures, which Nancy delivered. This dish was magnificent! Certainly the best of the night and may be the best salmon dish I have had in my life. Specifically prepared by Chef Skeie, this was an overwhelming delight of textures and flavors. Both the planned Pol Roger Brut Vintage Champagne and the former Rothschild Brut went excellently with this fine dish, as was brought to my attention by a friend. Finally, Nancy brought our Sweet – Grand Marnier Chocolate Ganache and Nougat Cream, Mandarin Flavors. This was accompanied by Barons de Rothschild Rose Champagne. An artistic plate, it was a very satisfying dessert, and I liked the Rose Champagne with it. I thought it was good that they paired the little bit of red in the Champagne with the chocolate in the dessert.
In summary, this was a truly unique and fabulous dinner. Never have I experienced an exclusively salmon based multi-course dinner and never have I been to a dinner paired with 5 different Champagnes. I have to say, notwithstanding my Norwegian heritage, this dinner brought Norwegian Salmon to the forefront of my experience with this species of fish. The young and talented young Chef Geir Skeie certainly demonstrated his superior talents this night, and I hope to follow his career with other experiences of his fine preparations, especially that main course! The Champagne speaks for itself! All in all, this was a spectacular night and many of us retired to the bar to continue the festivities. After all, someone had to finish off those open bottles of Champagne. What can I say but, WOW!
CHEERS!
My Best as Always,
Randy
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