德国独立酒园分类的里程碑
作为一个全国性的组织,VDP协会为葡萄酒提供了一整套的质量测定标准。2012年1月25日,VDP会员全体表决通过对分级制度的修改。这个修改后的分级金字塔对产地有四类不同称呼,于2012年正式生效。
Grosse Lage
Erste Lage
Ortswein
Gutswein
VDP的各地区分会在新制度的基础上增加了一些更严格的条款。印在瓶帽上的VDP标志-背负一串葡萄的雄鹰-象征着:一个生态型保护型的酒园、采用传统生产工序的酒窖、例行的感官评定和质量监督,以及合理化的市场营销;ERSTE LAGE-顶级酒园和 GROSSES GEWÄCHS-顶级一等葡萄酒,这些字样都是VDP协会的私有商标,而在莱茵高产区,则规定以Erstes Gewächs字样代替。 (分级规章符合现有葡萄酒法)。
VDP分级规章
规章从两方面对葡萄酒的品质进行分级:收获时的糖分含量和风土因素。换言之,葡萄酒的出身将与品质判定挂钩,风土将是一个很重要的判定依据。那么大产区、非独立种植或是稍差一些的独立酒园出产的葡萄酒都不符合规定,而只有真正能反应酒园独特风土的葡萄酒,才允许印上酒园的名字。风土有三个主要构成要素-“神奇三角形”:
(1) 酒园的特性、水平与总体条件;
(2) 栽培技术;
(3) 年份。
风土给葡萄酒带来的区别,是可以为人们所品鉴的,其中酒园条件主要是指其土壤因素(地形地貌、酒园位置、气候与微气候),而有时,特定的风土较适合种植某种类的葡萄,酒园的选址和最适宜种植的品种选择常需依赖几个世纪的实践经验。
分级金字塔 (2012年生效)
1. 最高级别: 顶级产区-ERSTE LAGE http://s4/small/72e6f5cegce9bd1585f83&690
全部为德国最顶级酒园产酒
干型以Grosses Gewächs 或Erstes Gewächs (莱茵高产区为EG)字样标示,天然的甜味果酒仍按传统方式标示。
全部为某产地最顶级的一小块种植田,风土条件优秀。种植指定的品种,有产酒的品鉴分析。年产量不超过5000升/公顷。人工采摘,颗颗精选,最低含糖量等同于晚摘型葡萄(Spätlese)。甜味果酒可于收获第二年5月1日后上市,干白为9月1日,红酒则在收获一年后才许上市。
2. 第二级别:高级产区-KLASSIFIZIERTE LAGE / ORTSWEIN / TERROIRWEIN
全部为来自精品酒园的上好葡萄酒,酒标上可印有出产酒园信息。
在满足一般法定标准的众多葡萄园中,只有一小部分才能被称为精品酒园:出众的传统葡萄园。这一等级对葡萄酒的口感没有太多限制,只规定最大年产量为6500升/公顷,种植指定的葡萄品种,各地区协会有不同的最低葡萄汁糖含量标准。
3. 第三级别:优质产区-GUTSWEIN
能反应产地特点的优质葡萄酒
按照VDP规章,这一级别的酒庄至少有80%的土地种植区域传统品种葡萄。最大年产量为7500升/公顷,各地区协会有不同的最低葡萄汁糖含量标准(不得低于法定标准)。
VDP分级规章备注(2012年生效)
被认定为ERSTE LAGE(印有http://s7/small/72e6f5cegce9b3acd0956&690标志)的葡萄酒需满足以下条款:
葡萄园选址:
葡萄园址的分级主要取决于风土-独特的风土体现在葡萄酒中,就变成了芳香与熟化的艺术-比如,据历史文件记载,因涉及到纳税,会员委托某一机构对独立葡萄园址进行价值评估,结果主要取决于对酒园地形、土壤结构、和气候条件的分析。为了评估某一酒园产酒的熟化潜能,人们将选出此地至少5个年份的成熟葡萄酒,与已分类酒园的产酒进行对比。
葡萄品种
各产区参与评级的葡萄酒品种做如下限定:
阿尔产区:黑皮诺、蓝皮诺、雷司令(限天然甜味葡萄酒)
巴登产区:雷司令、白皮诺、灰皮诺、黑皮诺
弗兰肯产区:雷司令、西万尼、白皮诺、黑皮诺
法尔兹产区:雷司令、白皮诺、黑皮诺
莱茵高产区:雷司令、黑皮诺
黑森山区:雷司令、白皮诺、灰皮诺、黑皮诺
莱茵黑森产区:雷司令、黑皮诺
中莱茵产区:雷司令
摩泽尔产区:雷司令
纳赫产区:雷司令
萨克森产区:雷司令、白皮诺、黑皮诺
萨勒-温斯图特产区:雷司令、西万尼、白皮诺、黑皮诺
乌腾堡产区:雷司令、白皮诺、灰皮诺、黑皮诺、蓝波格
备注:黑皮诺暨Pinot Noir, 白皮诺暨Pinot Blanc, 灰皮诺暨Pinot Gris
年产量
最大年产量为5000升/公顷。
收获采摘与成熟度
含糖量不得低于晚摘型葡萄标准。所有采摘一律手工精选。
生产酿造
只允许以传统方式酿造。
评定/监督
VDP协会不仅对葡萄酒指定了严格的分级标准,还附加了一系列条款,用以监督葡萄园产酒的品质,指导合理栽培-从葡萄生长期到收获期,产量都受到严格的监控-在装瓶前后,葡萄酒还会分别经过两次采样检验。
命名
来自顶级酒园的干型葡萄酒以Grosses Gewächs(GG)标示,天然甜味果酒则按传统方式,以晚摘-贵腐的称呼体系标示。
包装
所有的瓶装酒上都印有Erste Lage-顶级酒园-标志,瓶塞上为VDP标志-雄鹰与葡萄-与主要标识:酒庄和葡萄园名称。酒法要求的其它信息另列。
VDP分级规章修改决议
VDP 全员例会 • 2012年1月25日 • 法尔兹地区/诺伊施塔特市
1. 今起,VDP对产地采用以下称呼:
• VDP Grosse Lage (等同于勃艮第体系中的Grand Cru)
• VDP Erste Lage
(等同于勃艮第体系中的 Premier Cru)
• VDP Ortswein
(等同于勃艮第体系中的Village)
• VDP Gutswein
(等同于勃艮第体系中的 Bourgogne régional)
2. 首先,由各地区分会判定,哪些葡萄园符合规章规定的要求,有资格获得VDP Grosse Lage(或VDP Erste Lage)称号。同时,分会有权决定是否对顶级酒园和一等酒园再进行区分。VDP Gutsweine以及 VDP Ortsweine 级别的葡萄园潜能一般,也由地区分会进行分级判定。
3. 本次修改旨在标识区分印有葡萄园名字的高级干型葡萄酒,天然甜味果酒仍沿用传统等级标识,具体判定细则由各地分会制定。
4. 产自VDP Grosse Lage 级别葡萄园的干型葡萄酒以Grosses Gewächs字样标示(GG)。
5. 干型葡萄酒必须在酒标上注明,半干型可选择是否标注。
6.上一条款针对VDP Grosse Lage / Erste Lage /Ortsweine三个级别的葡萄酒,VDP Gutsweine 这一级别的所有葡萄酒(干型、半干型、甜酒),一律标注QbA或QmP。
7.
特殊情况下,会员酒庄可以申请免除以上所列要求,但需给出合理解释。(很有意思)
8. 各地区分会应立即根据以上条款,制定相关执行细则。
9.
申请条款7中所列关于免除要求的酒庄,需先得到分管地区分会批准。条款8、9相关事项均需得到VDP全国总会认可方能生效。
10. 以上所列决议条款自2012年生效。
A milestone in the classification of individual vineyards sites in Germany
In general, the VDP national association provides a uniform framework of quality-oriented measures. On 25 January 2012, the members of the VDP unanimously voted to adopt a resolution on the ongoing evolution of their classification. The restructured classification pyramid, based on four designations of origin, takes effect with vintage 2012.
The regional associations can stipulate stricter conditions. The VDP logo – the stylized eagle with a cluster of grapes – on the capsules of all wines guarantees ecologically responsible vineyard maintenance and cellar procedures, wines produced exclusively according to traditional methods of production, regular estate inspections and sensorical exams to ensure quality, as well as adherence to marketing measures. The terms ERSTE LAGE and GROSSES GEWÄCHS are private brand of the VDP. Designation of these wines in the Rheingau: Erstes Gewächs (here classification is a legally part of the wine law).
The VDP classification statute
The classification statute of the VDP defines the quality of a wine not only by the sugar content of the grape at the time of harvest, but also by its terroir, i.e. origin in conjunction with quality. Terroir is the focal point. As such, there is an abstention from using the name of a district, a collective vineyard site or a less-than-top individual site. Only wines that reflect the character of their terroir are permitted to bear the name of a vineyard site. Terroir is determined by three components, a “magic triangle” that includes (1) the overall quality and character of a vineyard site; (2) the skill of a grower; and (3) the quality of a vintage. Terroir is recognizable in a wine. The quality of a vineyard is defined by its soil (topographical position, climate and microclimate). Only certain grape varieties are well-suited for a specific terroir. Our knowledge about the best sites and the most suitable grape varieties is based on centuries of experience.
The classification pyramid (valid to vintage 2012)
1. The top level: ERSTE LAGE ![VDP-德国独立酒园分类的里程碑 VDP-德国独立酒园分类的里程碑]()
Wines from the best vineyards of Germany
Dry wines are designated Grosses Gewächs and Erstes Gewächs (Rheingau region)
Fruity wines with natural sweetness are denoted by the traditional Prädikats
A site’s absolutely finest, narrowly demarcated parcels with discernible terroir qualities. Designated grape varieties and taste profiles. Maximum yield of 50hl/ha. Selective harvesting by hand. Minimum must weight equivalent to Spätlese. First release on 1 May for wines with natural sweetness, on 1 September for Grosses Gewächs the year after harvest, red wines a year later.
2. The second level: KLASSIFIZIERTE LAGE / ORTSWEIN / TERROIRWEIN
Only wines from classified sites of Superior quality bear the name of a vineyard
Classified sites comprise a select, small group of traditional vineyards that have a distinctive character. This constitutes a fraction of the multitude of vineyard names permitted by law. No restrictions with regard to taste profile. Maximum yield of 65hl/ha. Designated grape varieties and minimum must weight are determined by regional VDP associations.
3. The lowest level: GUTSWEIN
High-quality wines that reflect regional character
At least 80% of an estate’s holdings must be planted with traditional grape varieties typical of their region, as recommended by the VDP. Maximum yield 75hl/ha. Minimum must weight (higher than prescribed by law) is determined by the regional associations.
NOTES ABOUT THE VDP CLASSIFICATION (valid to vintage 2012)
Wines bearing the ERSTE LAGE Logo
have fulfilled the following criteria:
VINEYARD SITE
The experience of participating estates with the specific character of a “terroir” with regard to fragrance, play of aromas and aging potential of the wines forms the basis of the classification of the best sites. Guidelines include historical documents showing valuation of the individual sites for tax purposes, as well as analyses of vineyards with regard to topography, soil structure and climatic conditions undertaken by a members’ commission. In order to assess the aging potential of a site, at least five mature vintages of wines from the site in question are compared with wines from sites that have already been classified.
GRAPE VARIETIES
The wines are produced exclusively from the following grape varieties:
Ahr: Spätburgunder, Frühburgunder, Riesling (only natural sweetness)
Baden: Riesling, Weisser Burgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder
Franken: Riesling, Silvaner, Weisser Burgunder, Spätburgunder
Pfalz: Riesling, Weisser Burgunder, Spätburgunder
Rheingau: Riesling, Spätburgunder
Hessische Bergstraße: Riesling, Weißer Burgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder
Rheinhessen: Riesling, Spätburgunder
Mittelrhein: Riesling
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Riesling
Nahe: Riesling
Sachsen: Riesling, Weisser Burgunder, Spätburgunder
Saale-Unstrut: Riesling, Silvaner, Weisser Burgunder, Spätburgunder
Württemberg: Riesling, Weißer Burgunder, Grauer Burgunder, Spätburgunder, Lemberger
Note: Spätburgunder = Pinot Noir, Weisser Burgunder = Pinot Blanc, Grauer Burgunder = Pinot Gris
YIELDS
Yields are restricted to a maximum of 50 hl/ha.
HARVEST PROCEDURES AND RIPENESS LEVEL
Grapes must have a minimum starting must weight of Spätlese quality. They are harvested selectively, by hand.
PRODUCTION PROCEDURES
Wines are produced exclusively according to traditional methods of production.
INSPECTIONS / EXAMINATIONS
Wines are subject to the general standards prescribed by the VDP national association as well as additional inspections and examinations. Quality-oriented measures in vineyards are supervised and yields, in particular, are monitored during the entire growing season and prior to the harvest. All wines are sampled by an examination commission before and after bottling.
STYLE
Dry wines from a top site (Erste Lage) are designated Grosses Gewächs. Fruity wines with natural sweetness are denoted by the traditional Prädikats from Spätlese to Trockenbeerenauslese.
PACKAGING
All bottlings will bear the Erste Lage logo , a capsule depicting the VDP logo – the stylized eagle with a cluster of grapes – and a front label that includes the name of the vineyard site and wine estate. All other data required by law are on a separate label.
Resolution Passed on the Ongoing Evolution of the VDP Classification
VDP Extraordinary General Meeting • 25 January 2012 • Neustadt/Pfalz
1. Henceforth, VDP appellations of origin are designated as follows:
• VDP Grosse Lage (like Grand Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP Erste Lage (like Premier Cru in Burgundy)
• VDP Ortswein (like Village in Burgundy)
• VDP Gutswein (like Bourgogne régional in Burgundy)
2. First, the regional associations determine which of their vineyard holdings qualify for VDP
Grosse Lage (or optionally, VDP Erste Lage) status. It is up to each region to decide whether or not
to differentiate between great sites and very good sites. VDP Gutsweine and VDP Ortsweine denote
wines originating from sites of average and medium potential, as decided by the regional
associations.
3. The goal is to implement the “one wine principle” for dry wines bearing the name of a classified
vineyard site. The traditional Prädikats are reserved for all wines with natural, ripe sweetness.
Specific taste profiles for the Prädikats are to be determined region by region.
4. A dry wine from a VDP Grosse Lage is a Grosses Gewächs.
5. The designation “trocken” (dry) is mandatory; “halbtrocken” (off-dry), optional.
6. The same labeling options apply to both VDP Ortsweine and VDP Lagenweine . VDP Gutsweine
can be either Qualitätsweine (QbA) or Prädikatsweine in any style (dry, off-dry, sweet).
7. To avoid undue hardship, members can request exemption from the VDP regulations outlined
above. The reason for the necessary exception must be declared.
8. The regional associations will immediately develop more detailed, regionally relevant concepts,
bearing in mind compliance with the regulations outlined above.
9. All individual requests for exemptions (point 7) require the approval of the member’s respective
regional association. These, as well as the implementation of regionally relevant concepts (point 8),
require confirmation by the national association.
10. The resolution outlined above takes effect with vintage 2012.
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