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Pascal Dangin ---- Top17 in Fashion

(2007-03-17 00:20:00)
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杂谈

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已经倒闭的《The Face》在2004年曾经公布过一份“时尚权力榜单”,在诸多上榜的人当中,排名17位的是一个陌生的名字,至少对于我们来说。但在他名字旁的caption写道:“没有哪个模特能像Pascal Dangin一样,脸都没看到呢,只露了个屁股,便值2万英镑。 ”
 
Pascal Dangin,近期的《ppaper》上有一篇关于他的专访和介绍,其中提到最“过分”的一句话是:“Annie Leibovitz、Steven Klein、Steven Meisel、Mario Sorrenti、Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin、Karl Lagerfeld、 Craig McDean and David Sims要是没有他的幕后帮助,照片就不能出版。”这也太悬乎了吧。关于Pascal Dangin,他和诸多平凡的不平凡人一样,有着从跑龙套做到业界之尊的传奇经历,他刚出道的时候是在发型沙龙里剪头发的,后来从巴黎去了纽约工作,慢慢开始接一些造型的活儿,一直对图像处理很感兴趣的他,在工作业余间都会玩弄电脑,这就被许多名模和名摄影师发现了,渐渐的,从20出头到现在34岁,十几年功夫,正是奠定事业的黄金时间段,他不仅创立了Box Ltd修图公司,还拥有了一支74人的团队,在曼哈顿有个大厂房作为公司办公地,够奢的。回头想想,这十几年,可是当今时装摄影大师们发迹的时期,只要用了数码相机,那应该多少和他有点接触。《ppaper》上还有说到2006春夏有64个品牌的平面广告,都是他修的图,不可思议。
 
现在已经不是Irvin Penn或者Richard Avedon的那个时代了,有些摄影师、编辑、化妆师越来越不讲究拍摄前所有工作的细致程度,更不用在暗房里处理底片的效果,反正有电脑,口红没抹匀,修!粉底没打好,修!衣服没烫平,修!修...修...修...Pascal Dangin的存在,既是摄影师的福音,也是传统摄影走向歧途的一个警示,数码相机的功效始终有一天会赶上blog的闹腾,到时,人人都拿照片说事儿,人人拍个照都说自己已接近大师,这样一来,市场重心更会向广告/制作公司倾斜,摄影师、造型师本身的意志将更为薄弱,谁强奸谁,还真不好说,也不会害臊。
 
以下是《TIME》于2003年写的一篇关于Pascal Dangin的文章,《ppaper》上亦用此文作为参考以及引文的开头。
“If you had never been to a fashion shoot, you might think click was where it ended. Pascal Dangin knows better. He's the man whom photographers, designers and editors seek out to perfect the pictures--and the people--who appear in fashion magazines. Dangin is founder and head of Box Studios in New York City, the fashion world's most sought-after photo-retouching firm. As the essential "postproduction" man for Annie Leibovitz, Craig McDean and other top-tier photographers, Dangin draws out possibilities within the negative after the picture is snapped. Not incidentally, he also improves any skimpy eyebrows, plump thighs or detectable pores. Whatever Kate Hudson or Gwen Stefani or Nicole Kidman might look like in fact, what she looks like in Harper's Bazaar or W is often Dangin's doing.
At his studio in lower Manhattan, he and his assistants sit at computer keyboards to soften lighting, heighten colors or erase crowsfeet. (The hardest flaw to deal with? "Bad toes.") But in a day when fashion magazines are publishing "Frankenstars"--women assembled for the page by bolting a head from one shot to a body from another--some of the flesh-and-blood stars are protesting. In recent months Kate Winslet and Julia Roberts have complained that they were unreasonably remade (not by Dangin) on magazine covers. "Postproduction capability should not be looked at as a voodoo practice," he insists. "It's been like this forever. The black-and-white photography of old Hollywood stars was extremely airbrushed." Call it voodoo or magic, we had him do a bit of it for this issue. He replaced the cover model's mouth with one from another picture of the same woman. Does she look too good to be true? ”
 
P.S 照片摘自《i-D》

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