茶
(2022-05-24 17:37:59)
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茶农学百科全书翻译 |
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TEA, a small tree or shrub, Camellia sinensis, a preparation of its dried and cured leaves and other plant parts, and a beverage made from other plants are also called “tea” but are almost always preceded by a modifying term, as in sassafras tea, Labrador tea, and sage tea.
茶,一种小树或灌木,野茶树,一种脱了水和熏制的树叶和其它植物的部分,以及由其它植物制成的,被称为“茶”的饮料,但几乎总是在茶的前面加上一个修饰词,比如黄樟茶、拉布拉多茶以及鼠尾草茶。
The Beverage. Tea has THREE important ingredients: caffeine, tea tannins, and an aromatic principle. In black tea the aromatic principle is attributed to one of the plant’s essential oils. In freshly picked tea leaves the solid materials—cellulose, fiber, and pure protein—constitute only about 25% by volume of the total leaf. The bulk of the fresh leaf consists of water, in which various substances are dissolved. The water-soluble substances are tea tannins, caffeine, protein bodies, gummy matter, and sugars. The caffeine content, to which tea owes its utility as a stimulant, averages about 3%. Like ordinary tannins, tea tannins combine with proteins in tea. Tea tannins have a bitter taste, contrasting with the astringent taste of other tannins.
饮料。茶有三种重要成分:咖啡因,茶单宁和芳香成分。在红茶中,芳香成分归因于一种植物清油。在新采摘的茶叶中,固形物质---纤维素、纤维和纯蛋白质---只占了茶叶总体积的大约25%。鲜叶的大部分都包含水分,其中溶解了各种物质。水溶性物质是茶单宁、咖啡因、蛋白质体、胶状物和糖类。茶作为一种引起兴奋的物质,咖啡因的含量平均大约是3%。就像普通的单宁酸,茶单宁与茶中的蛋白质结合。茶单宁拥有一种苦味,与其它的单宁酸的涩味形成了对比。
In preparing tea, to obtain its full flavor and body, bring freshly drawn water to a bubbling boil. Pour the water on the tea leaves in a previously scalded pot, and allow it to remain covered for five minutes. Then strain the tea from the leaves. The leaves should not be used again. One teaspoon (35 grains) of tea for each cup is standard. Tea bags may be treated similarly. But because the tea is generally small in size, it should only be steeped for four minutes, especially if it is to be taken with milk or cream or used for iced tea.
在泡茶的过程中,为获得茶的完整风味和口感,要将新水烧开。事先用开水冲烫茶壶,放入茶叶,注入开水,并盖保持五分钟。然后滤出茶叶。不要再次使用泡过的茶叶。每杯茶一茶匙的标准量为(35粒)。茶包的冲泡也类似。不过,由于茶的量通常都不大,因此只要浸泡四分钟即可,尤其是茶与牛奶或奶油共用时,或者在制作冰茶时。
The Plant. The plant Camellia sinensis, from which the young and tender leaves are plucked and used for making commercial tea, is a small evergreen tree of the family Theaceae. Although originally named Thea sinensis by Linnaeus, it is closely related to Camellia japonica. In its natural state it grows to a height of 15 to 30 feet (4.5—9 meters), but under cultivation it is restricted by pruning and plucking to a bush-like plant 2 to 5 feet (0.6—1.5 meters) tall. The tea plant’s spearhead-shaped (lanceolate to oblong lanceolate), serrated leaves are borne on short stalks and are arranged alternately on the stem. They vary in length from 1.5 to 10 inches (4—25.5 cm) and in width from 0.5 to 4 inches (1.3—10 cm). Mature leaves are rather thick, smooth, and leathery. The fragrant flowers, single or in groups of two or THREE, are located in the axils of the leaves. They consist of five white petals surrounding a showy group of yellow stamens. The fruit consist of one to THREE hard-shelled, dark brown capsules resembling hazelnuts.
植物。野茶树植物,采其鲜嫩树叶,用于制作商品茶,它是一种小型的山茶科常青树。尽管林奈最初将其命名为中国茶,但它与山茶有着密切的关系。在其自然的状态中,它可生长至15至30英尺高(4.5至9米),但在种植的情况下,通过修剪和减株,茶树被严格限制成一种2至5英尺(0.6至 1.5米)高的灌木状植物。茶树的矛头形状(矛尖型的到椭圆的矛尖型),短茎上生长着锯齿状的叶子,并在茎上交替排列。它们的长度从1.5至10英寸(4至25.5厘米),宽度从0.5至4英寸(1.3至 10厘米)不等。成熟的叶子较厚、光滑、似皮。叶腋开有单独的或两三一组芬芳的花朵。它们由五片花瓣组成,围绕着一群艳丽的黄色雄蕊。果实组成了一到三个有硬壳的,类似榛子的深褐色胶囊。
Cultivation. Although not all varieties of tea thrive equally well in all localities, few major crop plants appear to have a wider range of adaptability. Tea-producing countries include China, Japan, India, Pakistan, Ceylon, Taiwan (Formosa), Indonesia, a number of countries in Africa, the Georgian republic of the USSR, Malaysia, Turkey, Brazil, and Argentina.
栽培。虽然,所有品种的茶在所有的地方并不是都生长的同样好,但少数的几种主要作物似乎具有更广泛的适应性。生产茶叶的国家包括中国、日本、印度、巴勒斯坦、锡兰、中国台湾省、印度尼西亚,一些非洲的国家、苏联的格鲁吉亚共和国、土耳其、巴西和阿根廷。
Tea does best in a warm climate where rainfall averages 90 to 200 inches (2,286—5,080 mm) a year and where the soil is a deep, fertile, well-drained loam or clay-loam containing a substantial amount of well-decomposed organic matter. The tea plant thrives from sea level to elevations of 7,000 feet (2,100 meters). Other factors being equal, the higher the elevation, the better the quality of the tea.
茶在年平均降雨量90至200英寸(2286至5080毫米)的温暖环境,以及土壤深厚、肥沃、排水良好的壤土或内含大量已分解有机物的粘壤土中最适宜生长。茶树喜欢生长在从海平面至海拔高度7000英尺(2100米)的地方。在其它因素相同的情况下,海拔高度愈高,茶的质量就愈高。
In tea plantations (called estates or gardens) in India, Ceylon, Indonesia, or East Africa, the plants generally are set 4.5 feet (1.4 meters) apart and arranged in lines forming squares (checks) or with an additional plant in the center of each square (quincunxes). The latter arrangement permits better cultivation if the alleyways are kept clean. When tea is planted on terraces or hillsides, however, this method cannot strictly be followed. In Japan most of the planting is done in hedgerows 4 to 5 feet (1.2—1.5 meters) apart, the plants being set 2 to 3 feet (0.6—0.9 meter) apart in the rows.
在印度、锡兰、印度尼西亚,或东非的茶园中(称为庄园或花园),这些植物通常相隔4.5英尺(1.4米),并排成行,形成正方形(格子)或在每个正方形(梅花形)的中心种上其它的植物。如果通道保持干净,后一种排列可更好的栽培。然而,当把茶种在梯田或山坡上时,就无法严格地遵循这种方法。在日本,大多数的种植都是在间隔4至5英尺(1.2至1.5米的灌木蓠墙中进行的,这些植物的株距被设置成间隔2至3英尺(0。6至0。9米)。
The tea plant is produced from seed in all tea-growing countries except Taiwan, where propagation generally is by branch layering (bending down a branch and buying the tip in the soil). When the branch layers are well rooted they are pruned away from the parent plant and transplanted in new fields. In most other countries seeds are planted in nursery beds, and then the seedlings are transplanted. In India, however, the seeds are often planted at stake—that is, a new clearing is staked off, and four or five seeds are planted at the foot of each stake—and the plants are thinned out after the seedlings begin to grow.
除了中国台湾省以外,所有产茶国的茶树都是从种子栽培出来的,台湾的茶树栽培通常是用压条法(将茶树的枝条弯着插入土壤中)。当枝条生根后,将它们从母株上剪下,移植到新的场地。在大多数其它的国家,种子是在苗圃中栽种的,然后再移栽幼苗。然而在印度,种子通常是在木桩上种植的---就是说,在新的空地中栽上木桩,在每个桩的底部种上四、五粒种子---在幼苗开始生长后再减苗。
The tea plant is pruned to a height of 2 to 5 feet (0.6—1.5 meters) for convenience in plucking and, more importantly, to induce the plant to bring forth more tender young leaves.
为方便采摘,而且为使茶树长出更嫩的鲜叶,茶树被修剪到2至5英尺(0.6至1.5米)的高度。
Plucking or Harvesting. The tea plant produces a flush (full complement) of leaves on an average of every 40 days. In China, Taiwan, and Japan the crop is plucked when most of the leaves in a flush have reached the proper stage of growth. In Ceylon, India, Java, Sumatra, and elsewhere, the leaves are plucked every 7 to 15 days. This results in a larger yield of good, uniform tea, since early all the leaves in a flush are gathered at the best time.
采摘或收获。平均每40天,茶树会出现一轮茶叶的繁茂生长(完整叶子)。在中国、中国台湾省以及日本,当大多数茶叶繁茂生长,达到生长的适当阶段时,便可采摘。在锡兰、印度、爪哇岛、苏门达腊以及其它一些地方,每7至15天采摘一次茶叶。这样会生产大量优质、品质相同的茶叶,因为早期所有在繁茂生长的茶叶都是在最佳时间采收的。
Beginning at the top, the leaves on a shoot that has a full complement of leaves are known as follows: pekoe tip or flowery pekoe, orange pekoe, pekoe, first souchong, second souchong, first congou, and second congou (bohea). In fine plucking, only the first two leaves (the pekoe tip) and sometimes the third leaf are taken.
从茶树的顶端开始采摘,新枝上的枝叶拥有完整的叶子,被称为:白毫银针或花香白毫、橙黄白毫、白毫,一等小种、二等小种,一等工夫茶以及二等工夫茶(武夷茶)。在精细采摘中,只采摘前两片叶(白毫银针),而有时也采摘三片叶。
Manufacture. There are THREE primary types of tea: black (fully fermented), oolong (partially fermented), and green (unfermented). Though any of the varieties of tea can be used to produce the THREE types, certain varieties are better suited for making one or more of them.
制茶。茶有三种主要类型:红茶(全发酵),乌龙茶(半发酵),以及绿茶(不发酵)。虽然任何茶叶都能用于生产这三种类型的茶,但某些品种更适合制作它们中的一种或多种茶。
Black Tea. There are four important steps in the most common method of manufacturing black tea: withering, rolling, fermenting, and drying.
红茶。在制作红茶中最常见的方法有四个重要步骤:萎凋、揉捻、发酵和烘干。
Withering removes much of the leaf’s water content, making the leaf soft and pliable and suitable for rolling. In factories, it is generally accomplished by spreading the leaves very thinly on trays and allowing them to wither naturally for 12 to 24 hours. Sometimes it is done artificially by heating the leaves in machines in a current of air at a temperature of about 140 °F (60°C).
萎凋祛除了叶子的许多水分,使叶子变软和柔韧,以适于揉捻。在工厂中,通常是将叶子很薄地摊在托盘上,让它们自然萎凋12至24个小时。有时是人为的在华氏140度(摄氏60度)的气流中用机器加热叶子。
Rolling, usually done in special machines, turns and spindles the leaves, breaking the leaf cells. The liberated juices and enzymes then spread over the surface of the leaves, initiating the fermentation (oxidation) process. The juices that dry on the leaves, contributing to the flavor of the tea, are easily dissolved in hot water. Rolling also reduces the surface of the leaf, imparting to it the familiar twist of most commercial teas.
揉捻,通常用特殊的机器来完成,翻动并纺锤叶子,破坏叶子的细胞。然后,释放出来的汁液和酶撒在叶子的叶面上,开始发酵(氧化)过程。这些在叶子上干了的汁液有助于茶叶的风味,易溶于热水。揉捻还改变了茶叶的外表,使其拥有了大多数商业茶所熟悉的条形。
The leaves are then fermented (oxidized) to the desired degree by spreading them on tables or cement floors and allowing them to absorb oxygen for two to four hours. The best results are obtained when the oxidizing room is kept as damp as possible, a humidity of 95% being ideal. The finest flavors in East Indian black teas develop when the temperature is maintained between 75°and 84°F (24°--29°C).For China black teas, oxidation is carried out at a higher temperature by spreading the rolled leaves in the sun or by forming them into balls that are kept overnight in a warm moist place. During fermentation the leaf changes from a dark green to a bright coppery color, and the leafy odor is converted into a characteristic fruity one.
然后将叶子摊开在桌子或水泥板上,让它们吸收两至四个小时的氧气,使其发酵到所需要的程度。当氧化的房间保持了尽可能的潮湿时,便可获得最理想的效果,最为理想的湿度为95%。当温度保持在华氏75度和84度(摄氏24度至29度)时,印度东部的红茶就会形成最佳的风味。对于中国红茶来说,氧化是在高温下进行的,将揉捻的叶子摊开在太阳下,或将它们制成球状,在温暖潮湿的地方过夜。在发酵期间,叶子从深绿色变成亮铜色,并且叶子的气味转化成了一种独特的水果味。
When the desired characteristics appear, the fermentation is checked by drying, or firing, in a current of hot air. East Indian and African teas are dried at a temperature of 190°to 200°F (88°—93°C), the whole process taking about 20 minutes.
当需要的特征出现时,便在热气流中通过烘干或烘焙控制发酵。印度东部和非洲的茶叶是在华氏190度至200度(摄氏88度至93度)的温度之间烘干的,整个过程大约需要20分钟。
China black teas are dried in baskets over charcoal fires at a very low temperature. The process requires six to eight hours because the baskets are removed at intervals from the fires, and the tea is stirred. The most important of the China black teas are the North China black leaf congous and the South China red leaf congous.
中国红茶是在温度非常低的碳火上在篮子中烘干的。由于篮子要不断地移动,还要翻动茶叶,因此这个过程需要六至八小时。中国红花中最重要的是华北的黑叶工夫茶和华南的红叶工夫茶。
In some districts of India, Malawi, and Ceylon, black tea is made by an entirely different process, which omits the withering stage. In the manufacture of non-wither tea, the fresh leaf is put through cutters adjusted to give a cut of about 1/32 of an inch (0.8 mm). The cut leaf is rolled slowly in either standard or modified tea rollers. The tea is then cooled, given a second rolling and cooking, and placed in the fermenting room. After fermentation, the tea is dried at a high temperature, which reduces the moisture content to about 10%. This rapid, high-temperature firing seals the flavor and essential oil into the leaf. The leaf is then passed through a second drier at a lower temperature, which removes all traces of moisture and ensures exceptional keeping qualities.
在印度、马拉维和锡兰的一些区域,制作红茶的过程完全不同,它省略了揉捻阶段。在非揉捻茶的生产过程中,鲜叶通过切割设备切成一英寸(0.8毫米)的大约1/32之一大小。切割的叶子在标准或改进的茶叶滚筒内缓慢滚动。然后冷却茶叶,再次滚动,蒸调,并送入发酵室。发酵后,茶叶在高温下烘干,减少水分大约10%左右。这种迅速,高温的烧制将风味和精油封闭在叶子内。然后,叶子在较低的温度下进行二次烘干,祛除所有的水分,保证优良的品质。
Oolong Tea. In the manufacture of oolong tea, fermentation (oxidation) is permitted to proceed only part way. This is accomplished by allowing the leaves to wilt partially in the natural way, either by spreading them on trays in the factory or in the sun, or by stirring them in shallow baskets placed in the sun. after this partial fermentation has been carried out, the oxidizing properties are destroyed by stirring the leaves in pans heated to about 250°F (121°C). The leaves are then rolled and fired immediately in hourglass-shaped baskets over charcoal fires at a low temperature.
乌龙茶。在生产乌龙茶的过程中,只进行半程发酵(氧化)。这是让茶叶用自然的方式晒到半干,要么摊开在工厂的托盘上,要么放在阳光下,或者在阳光下的浅篮子中不断地翻动它们。这种不完全的发酵完成后,在加热至大约华氏250度(摄氏121度)的平底锅中翻动,祛除氧化特性。然后翻动叶子,并迅速在沙漏状的篮子里在低温的木炭火上烧制。
Oolong teas come from both mainland China and Taiwan. The former, known as Foochow, Amoy, and Canton oolongs, have been superseded to some extent by Taiwan oolongs. Both kinds are often scented with flowers.
乌龙茶来自中国大陆和中国台湾省。前者,被称为福州,厦门和广东乌龙,在某种程度上已被中国台湾省的乌龙所取代。通常,两地的乌龙都带有花香味。
Green Tea. When green tea is made, the leaves are first either sterilized in live steam, as is done in Japan, Ceylon, and India, or heated in hot pans over charcoal fires at 250°F (121°C), as is done in China, in order to inhibit the oxidizing, or fermenting, enzymes, as completely as possible. The treated leaves are then rolled and fired, or dried, immediately at a temperature of about 200°F (93°C). In India, Ceylon, and Java, green tea is generally made by machinery. Steam is used as a sterilizing agent, and excess water is removed by centrifuging.
绿茶。在制作绿茶时,为了尽可能抑制氧化或发酵,酶化,茶叶先要在流动的蒸汽中杀菌,就像日本、锡兰和印度那样,或者在华氏250度(摄氏121度)炭火上用热锅加热,就像中国那样。然后,迅速在大约华氏200度(摄氏93度)的温度中翻动加工过的叶子并烧制或烘干。在印度,锡兰和爪哇岛,绿茶通常用机器来制作。蒸汽是用作杀菌剂,并通过离心的方法祛除过多的水分。
Grading. After manufacturing, teas are graded—some for quality (cup test), some for style (size and age of leaf), and some for both quality and style.
定等级。生产后,要给茶叶分等级---一些是确定茶的质量(杯测),一些是定茶的样式(叶子的大小和时间),而有些是既要定质量,也要定样式。
The simplest form of grading classifies whole leaves according to age and size, ranging from the tenderest orange pekoe, through pekoe and pekoe souchong, to souchong. Fannings, or broken leaves, are graded as broken orange pekoe, broken pekoe, broken pekoe souchong, and broken souchong. Most of these grades are separated by means of a series of oscillating sieves or revolving cylindrical sieves. Grading is only for style classification. The market value of the tea must be determined by the tea-taster.
最简单的定等级做法是根据整片叶子的时间和大小进行分类,从最嫩的橙黄白毫,到白毫和白毫小种,小种。扇叶或碎叶,则是按照碎橙白毫、碎白毫、碎白毫小种、碎小种定等。这些等级的大多数是用一系列振荡筛或旋转圆柱形筛分离。等级只是样式的分类。茶叶的市场价值必须由品茶者来决定。
The style grades of China green teas, established by passing the finished tea through sieve, include young hyson, hyson, gunpowder, imperial, and pea leaf. On Japanese teas, quality grades are indicated by district names such as Yamashiro and Enshu.
中国绿茶的样式等级是让制成茶通过筛子来确定的,包括雨前、熙春、高末儿、帝王和豆叶。至于日本茶,品质等级是由区域名称来表示的,诸如山城和远州。
Production. The average world production of tea during the mid-1960’s was 2.52 billion pounds (1.26 million tons, or 1,144 million kg) per year. India was the leading tea producer, followed by Ceylon, China (mainland), Japan, and the USSR. Tea production has continued to rise throughout the world, with African and South American nations showing the most marked increase. Countries such as New Guinea, Ecuador, and South Africa, which had not previously grown tea on a significant scale, are now seriously involved in tea production.
产量。在20世纪60年代中期,世界茶叶的平均产量为每年25. 2亿镑(126万吨,或11. 44亿公斤)。印度是主要的茶叶生产国,其次是锡兰、中国(大陆)、日本和苏联。随着非洲和南美洲国家展现出最显著的增长,全世界茶叶产量持续上升。例如新几内亚、厄瓜多尔和南非这样的国家,以前并没有大规模种植茶叶,但现在已认真地加入到茶叶生产中。
Consumption. World consumption of tea continues to absorb the entire output of the producing countries. The producing nations themselves have shown a definite increase in consumption, particularly those developing nations in which there has been a rise in the purchasing power of the working class. Important countries, on the other hand, have tended to stabilize their import at a much lower rate of increase.
消费量。世界茶叶的消费量不断吸引着产茶国的整个产量。生产国本身在消费量上也展示了明确的增加,尤其是那些发展中国家,劳工阶层的购买力已有了上升。另一方面,重要的国家倾向于以较低的上升率稳定他们的进口。
The leading tea-consuming nations are Britain, India, Japan, the USSR, and the United States. Britain also consumes the most tea per-person, followed by Ireland, Libya, New Zealand, Australia, and Iraq.
主要的茶叶消费国有英国、印度、日本、苏联和美国。英国的人均茶叶消费也是最多的,其次是爱尔兰、利比亚、新西兰、澳大利亚和伊拉克。
The well-known Lapsang souchong, a large leaf congou (lower leaf) with a smoky or tarry flavor, is highly prized among connoisseurs in Britain and the United Stated. Black teas of the East Indian type (cold-fermented) constitute about 95% of all of the tea that are used in the United States.
著名的正山小种,一种大叶工夫茶(下层叶)具有一种烟熏味或焦糖味,在英国和美国的鉴赏家中备受推崇。印度东部(冷发酵)的红茶类型大约占到美国所有茶叶用量的95%。
Tea packaged in tea bag accounts for the largest share of the tea sold for home consumption in the United States. At the start of the 1970’s, tea bags accounted for approximately 52% of the tea sold, instant tea for 28%, loose tea in packages for 14%, and tea used in ice tea mixes for 6%.
在美国,包装成袋泡茶的茶叶占了家庭茶叶消量的最大份额。从20世纪70年代开始,袋泡茶大约占茶叶销售量的52%,速溶茶为28%,散装茶为14%,而用于冰茶混合物的茶叶占6%。
This distribution represents a considerable change in the pattern of consumption. The quantity of tea used in instant tea and in iced tea mixes has increased substantially, chiefly at the expense of loose tea in packages. Instant tea is manufactured in the tea-producing countries for distribution in all countries of the world.
这种分布在消费模式中代表了一种相当大的变化。用于速溶茶和用于冰茶混合物的茶叶数量大幅度增加,主要是以包装的散茶为代价。速溶茶是在产茶国生产的,分销世界各国。
History.
历史。中国人提供了最早的茶叶书写记录。在孔子(公元前551年至479年)编辑的一本著作中有几处提及了应该是茶的一种灌木,但第一次真实的引用出现在一位死于公元273年的中国官员的传记中。在1559年之前欧洲人对茶还一无所知,当时乔瓦尼·巴蒂斯塔·拉穆西奥在《航海旅行》中提到了茶叶。英语语言首次提及茶是一位英国东印度公司的代理商R. 威克曼于1615年写自日本的一封信中。1767年托马斯·加维购买了大量茶叶,他是伦敦一家后来被称为加罗维咖啡店的所有者。
The U. S. tea trade began in 1784, when the first American vessel sailed for China to pick up a cargo of tea. By 1787 the American tea trade amounted to over 1 million pounds (0.4 million kg) a year. Soon tea merchants and shipbuilders cooperated in launching fast clipper ships, a development that culminated in the celebrated Yankee clippers.
美国的茶叶贸易开始于1784年,当时第一艘美国船舶驶往中国装运茶叶货物。到了1787年,美国每年的茶叶贸易量都超过了100万镑(40万公斤)。很快,茶叶商与造船人合作,快船下水了,这一发展以著名的美国快船达到了顶峰。
In 1826 the Dutch succeeded in establishing tea plantations in Java, and in 1836 the East India Company introduced tea cultivation into India. After the loss of its coffee estates due to the rust fungus Hemileia vastatrix in the 1870’s Ceylon also became a tea-growing country.
1826年,荷兰人成功地在爪哇岛建立了茶园,而在1836年东印度公司将茶叶栽培引进印度。在19世纪70年代,由于锈菌叶锈病真茵失去了其咖啡庄园,锡兰也成为了种茶的国家。
Many attempts have been made to cultivate and manufacture tea in the United States. The most noteworthy was that of C. U. Shepard, undertaken in cooperation with the Department of Agriculture in 1890. His experiments were conducted on an estate near Summerville, S. C., where he installed a fully equipped factory using many laborsaving methods and machines. The tea produced was of excellent quality, but labor costs proved too high to meet Asian competition, and the experiment was ended in 1916.
在美国,曾进行了许多尝试来栽培和制作茶叶。最值注意的是加州大学的谢泼德,于1890年与农业部开展合作。他的实验是在马萨诸塞州萨默维尔附近的一个庄园进行的,在那里他建造了一个设备齐全的工厂,使用了许多省力的方法和机器。生产的茶叶品质优良,但发现劳动成本太高,无法面对亚洲的竞争,于是实验于1916年结束。
(译者注:该词条位列《大美百科全书》1985年版,第26卷,第339页至342页)