VV du Levant 08: thrilling chalkiness & subtle oiliness
标签:
香槟champagnelarmandiercramant2008 |
分类: 嘉明话香槟 |

Formerly
named Vieille Vigne de Cramant.
Tasted on May
1, 2017.
The powdery,
saline scents of chalk are so intense & demanding that one can
hardly scense any fruit aroma initially. After a while in the
glass, bright, delectable fragrances of lime, lemon, mirabelle,
green & yellow apples emerge, gradually revealing a subtle
oiliness.
The attack on
the palate is an instant knockout: the spine of saline chalkiness
shoots like a laser beam! From the attack to the mid palate till
the very long & fragrant aftertaste, I'm dumbfounded by the
sheer thrill of smoky chalkiness at an accelerating speed. Any
Champagne afficionado deserves to experience such pure intensity of
chalk - terroir signature is expressed young!
With
aeration, more fruitiness (lime, lemon, mirabelle & apple)
comes out on the palate. And the bold chalkiness
is now wrapped up by a subtly oily & creamy texture, which is
boosted by first fermentation & aging in used oak casks. It
finishes with a savory iodine
tone.
Thanks to the
judicious use of used oak casks, the subtle oiliness &
creaminess in texture ease the otherwise painful youth of this
9-year-old Champagne, which is destined for a very long &
glorious life ahead.
A legend has
begun.
Last but by
no means least, having tasted not long ago Larmandier-Bernier
Coteaux Champenoise Blanc (still white wine in Champagne) Cramant
Nature 08 ( which is made from the same Chardonnay juice that goes
into this VV du Levant 08 Champagne ), I've found that the still
white wine shows a lot more apparent oiliness & unctuosity from
oak than the Champagne does. My personal guestimate is the yeast
autolysis process after the 2nd fermentation and the subsequent
disgorgement (the removal of died yeast residual) help clean up the
excess of oiliness & unctuosity from fermentation in
oak.
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