Roses de Jeanne ‘La Haute-Lemblé’ Blanc de Blancs 2008 Extra Brut Champagne

Thanks to Luc for sparing the quota from Taiwan! Thanks to Xiao P for the photos!

* Single vineyard: La Haute-Lemblé, an 11.8-are, south-facing parcel of Chardonnay in Celles-sur-Ource, Aube. Clay & chalk mixed soil.

* Natural viticulture. Exceptionally low yield.

* Minimalist winemaking: no chaptalization, no oak, no fining, no filtering, no cold-stabilization and no dosage. The wine goes through a natural malolactic.

* Lower pressure of 4.5 atmospheres rather than standard 6, in order to achieve very fine & gentle mousse without aggression.

Thanks to Cedric Bouchard’s minimalist winemaking approach, he is one of the relatively few universally acclaimed (least controversial) among Champagne’s new-wave growers…

Millesime 2008 disgorged in April, 2012 

First served upon uncorking.

Initially, the nose is very discreet (just stony minerals), needing quite some time in the glass to gradually reveal waxy aromas of crystalline Asian pear & yellow fruit cube.

The flavors are extremely subtle as well, with crystalline Asian pear dominant & mere hints of saline & spicy minerality. There seems to be barely enough texture of fruit to wrap up the stony mineral core. No extra baby fat whatsoever. A touch of oily roundedness completes the mid palate. From a grand vintage, this is all about purity, tension & precision at such early stage. Yet its poise & finesse already impresses us much.

Sealed with champagne stopper & left to chill. Served second round in about one hour and a half after uncorking.

What a thrilling, racy outburst of flinty, smoky minerality! Now the bold mineral core has penetrated the cocoon of sleek fruit.

Despite all the class & thrill it boasts at such young age, it really cries for extensive cellaring to fully achieve the potential from this grand vintage.