Thanks to Johnny for this rare treat!                                                  Photo by Xiao P 

 SALON Le Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blancs 1988 Champagne (magnum)

Tasted in Dec., 2012

Bearing in mind the ageing potential of Champagne Salon in a marathon-runner vintage like 1988 coupled with the 'magnum effect', I'm still surprised to find how youthful it is -- firmly stuck in the primary fruit stage. But it's friendly accessible and in no way austere: refined, round and complete, demonstrating the superiority of magnum format. 

Sweet lemon and red apple aromas gradually give way to even more youthful scents of fresh-cut grass and green apple, enhanced by merest hints of crushed chalk, cheese and toasted bread.

On the palate, the dense layers of fruit (sweet lemon, red and green apples) seem impenetrable, though one can still sense the quiet sophistication underneath, now merely hinting at brioche, toasted bread, iodine, chalk dust and cheese.

Dense and harmonious. Still youthful and much in reserve. It has a long way to evolve.