
Thanks to Johnny
for sharing this classic oldie!
Pol Roger Brut Rose 1988
Champagne (750ml)
Composition: 40% Chardonnay; 60% Pinot Noir, in
which around 15% is vinified as red
wine.
The highly reputed
champagne house of Pol Roger has only one rose in
the range: the vintage-dated Brut Rose, which
is rose d'assemblage by
adding around 15% Pinot Noir red wine to the traditional Pol Roger
vintage blend. When first released, Pol Roger Brut
Rose Vintage often exudes roundness, delicacy and
subtlety, with cushiony, caressing mousse. Yet
I had not tried an old/mature vintage of Pol's
Rose to experience the evolution... so when my buddie Johnny told
me he had managed to source some Pol Roger Brut Rose 1988 from a
private collector’s cellar in Germany, I
was quite thrilled --
personally, I always
prefer champagnes with a
serious style and a certain level
of austerity (to me, this is champagne’s
dignity!) throughout their
lifetime. Thus the
tightly-built and poised
1988 vintage is
naturally one of my very
favorites!
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Tasted on Feb. 29, 2012
Well chilled. Served upon popping the cork and
then sealed with champagne stopper. Afterwards, we
deliberately left the bottle @ room temperature (around 20 DEG.C)
to allow for gradual
warm-up.
Salmon-copper
robe.
When first poured, a whiff of cognac on the nose –
indication of evolution and vinosity. The nose
closed for a while, then
gradually opened up with refined
mineral scents and decadent Pinot aromas, reminiscent of a fine
Burgundian Rouge in elegance and
sophistication.
Though beads were barely perceptible in the glass,
the mousse was still vivaciously
felt in the mouth. The taste struck an enviable balance between maturity and
vigor, intensity and elegance: earthy notes,
autumnal complexities, ripe cherry and candied raspberry
all fused together by a spine of live-giving
acidity, which lifted the aftertaste with freshness and promised
for graceful
ageing ahead.
With aeration and warming-up,
saline minerality and meaty notes
prevailed, with vinosity more
pronounced. Then it further evolved towards
preserved plum and
cognac.
This one impressed us through
its intensity and
poised sophistication, rather than richness or
weight.
A well built,
serious rose, with depth and
vigor that would support further
cellaring.
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