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转载: Dosages are lowering for modern tastes

(2011-10-18 19:56:46)
标签:

champagne

dosage

香槟

品酒

美食

分类: 美酒趣闻

Dosages are lowering for modern tastes

Author: David Donald @ Champagne Gallery, Australia

www.champagnegallery.com.au 

 

The recent announcement by Moët & Chandon that it has reduced the dosage of the world's biggest selling Champagne- 'Brut Imperial' from 12 grams/litre to 9 g/l is an indicator of a changing trend.
According to Benoît Gouez, Moët's Chef de Cave, "The change will be gradual, " "We want to allow our Moët customers to adjust to the drier style. We eventually might want to lower the dosage in the Brut Imperial to 7 grams, and perhaps even 6." This movement towards drier Champagnes in the LVMH group started with Champagne Dom Pérignon. Its renowned Chef de Cave, Richard Geoffroy, began lowering the dosage on the Dom ten years ago, and it is currently down to 6 to 7 g/L.
For a number of the large houses in the past, the dosage for 'Brut' champagnes were in the 13-15gms/litre. This was changed in July 2009 when it was changed to 12gms/litre as the legal maximum. Today more than 95% of all Champagne is labelled Brut. There was a time when a higher dosage may have been called for to help balance a less than ripe vintage - but weather patterns have changed. Over the past two decades harvest has been occurring much earlier with much riper fruit levels, it is predicted to be as early as August this year.

There have always been numerous grower producers who have championed the drier styles, and a number of the large houses are also producing drier versions; Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Extrem, Pol Roger Pure, & Ayala with their Zero Dosage and Nature Cuvees. It has been said that Louis Roederer will release a drier cuvee this year. For Champagnes that have had extended cellaring on their lees,require less dosage. Jacquessons Late Disgorged release have zero dosage and Bollinger's R.D has minimal as it is simply unrequired.

Weather patterns have changed and where previously vintages may have only been declared 3 or 4 times in a decade because of ripening conditions. Over the past 20 years vintages have been declared 7-8 times a decade. Better viticulture and a more focussed pursuit of quality is apparant in Champagne currently produced. The level has never been higher across the board and why Champagne is the most exciting wine region today.

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