Photo by Johnny

If you pronounce the word ‘Lanson’ in the face of any seasoned champagne lover, I bet you the first descriptor that comes to his or her mind must be ‘acidic’!

Being the only major champagne house that avoids malolactic fermentation across the board, Lanson's cuvees, Black Label NV in particular, normally possess tough -- sometimes even formidable -- acidity, which makes it extraordinarily rewarding for you to cellar them but tough to consume them upon release.

In 2009, Lanson unveiled a new cuvee called 'Extra Age', which is not vintaged. I have been eagerly waiting to try it. Then, much to my delight, I found it in Shanghai (officially imported) in the autumn of 2010. As I saw the words on the poster 'Three exceptional vintages...1999 2002 2003', I said to myself 'very interesting multi-vintage blend from three low acid years! For better or worse, this is set to be exceptional Lanson!'

Lanson Extra Age (multi-vintage blend of 1999, 2002 and 2003) 750ml

Grape proportions: 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay

Terroir: the Pinot Noirs from Grands Crus of Verzenay and Bouzy; the Chardonnays from Grands Crus of Chouilly, Avize, Oger and Premier Cru of Vertus.

Ageing on lees: Min. 5 years (the current batch in Chinese market is disgorged in April 2010)

Tasted in early Nov. 2010 

Served upon uncorking. Pale lemon robe. Slow rising fine bubbles.

Strawberry scented with subtle honey notes.

Silky smooth mousse. Lush, creamy fruit. Polished texture. Immediate charm and very easy-going -- this is very good indeed, although very un-Lanson to me!

About 20 minutes after uncorking: the cushion of sumptuous, creamy fruit is lifted, what’s left behind is a slimmer figure: exquisite, pure, fresh and crisp. So the immediately charming and sumptuous components from the terribly low acid year of 2003 do fade fast!

Then the slimmer beauty remains in good shape till more than one hour and a half after uncorking.

This blend is a decent effort for immediate joy right upon release. Yet to see the blend of subsequent versions, but for the first (the current) version of 99/02/03 blend, enjoy it soon rather than cellar it extensively. Maybe that's why Lanson name it 'Extra Age' -- already so approachable and enjoyable upon release, why bother to cellar it?