Thanks to Johnny for sharing this interesting bubbly and nice photos!

Jacquesson D.T. 1990 brut champagne (750ml)

Grape proportions: 47% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 33% Pinot Meunier

Disgorged in July, 2009; zero dosage

Tasted in August, 2010

Served upon uncorking. Intense lemon gold robe with tiny bubbles.

The nose is broad and opulent right from the start: white flowers, yeasty notes, fresh cut butter, yellow fruits and gingerbread – direct charm!

The palate is also broad and complex: Pinot Meunier’s easy-going charm (yeasty, bready complexity) leads the way, followed by bright yellow fruits (pear) and lemon zest of Chardonnay.

Due to layers of rich fruit, you don't miss the dosage (even if there is none) and the still tough acidity becomes obvious only on the finish. This is good, but, frankly speaking, still a bit short of our anticipation for a great 1990 bubbly – I mean it is broad and complex, but somehow a bit coarse/not well framed and needing precision and depth.

15 minutes after uncorking: the easy-going fruity Pinot Meunier portion seems to retreat, and now the stony, mineral and acidic Chardonnay takes the command on the palate. This is good in a classic austere way, but the transition from the previous easy-going charm to the current austerity is a bit abrupt…

With further airing, a mild oaky, vanilla tone makes its way through both on the nose and the palate.

I guess the relatively high proportion of Pinot Meunier and low proportion of Pinot Noir would have something to do with the somehow loose structure/abrupt evolution and rather one-dimensional taste, which lowers its status from excellence (if more Pinot Noir in the blend) to merely good now.

P.S. Later I get to know that Jacquesson D.T.1990 is NOT the same blend as Jacquesson Grand Vin Signature 1990, i.e., D.T.1990 is NOT the late disgorgement version of Grand Vin Signature 1990 -- the latter has more Pinot Noir in the blend and shall be a better wine...