Thanks to Johnny for sharing this rare find and nice photos!

Henri Giraud Ay Grand Cru Fut de Chene

- Background information (extracts from World Encyclopedia of Champagne & sparkling wine by Tom Stevenson)

' This tiniest of Champagne houses was founded in the 1950s (as a RM, i.e., grower), then labelled as Champagne Giraud-Hemart, the name of Henri Giraud’s father. The family owns 9.4 hectares of vines in the Grand Cru of Ay, encompassing 26 parcels of Pinot Noir and 6 parcels of Chardonnay. Since 1982, this house has been run by Claude Giraud, the son of Henri Giraud, who became a negociant-manipulant (NM, i.e., merchant) in 1990. Henri Giraud passed away in 2000.

Claude Giraud crafted the flagship cuvee, Ay Grand Cru Fut de Chene vintage, which undergoes 1^st fermentation and ageing in Argonne oak barrels (228 litres each) and there are only 10 barrels, but such is the richness of this Champagne that it is not all over-oaked, although the oak is easily noticed. The palate is packed with exquisite fruit, sweep ripe and biscuity with much finesse and a lovely cushiony mousse. I should reserve my judgement, since it has been made on tasting just one vintage (1993) a couple of times, but I am so excited by this Champagne, which does for Ay what Salon does for Le Mesnil, that I cannot resist... '

* Fut de Chene literally means 'oak barrel'

Henri Giraud Ay Grand Cru Fut de Chene 1996 Brut Champagne (750ml)

Grape proportions: 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, all from Ay Grand Cru

*1^st fermentation and ageing in Argonne oak barrels

Tasted in June, 2010 

What a presentation of understated luxury! Instead of the conventional complications of metal cap and wires, the cork is neatly adored with a gold-plated clamp, reflecting the proud tradition of real cork closure for 2^nd fermentation in bottle.

Served upon uncorking. Brilliant gold, with streams of very fine bubbles.

The nose is fat, oily and oaky. By sharp contrast, the first attack on the palate is terrific, penetrating acidity, like an unexpected lightening lit up the dull, dark night sky, announcing the approaching thunderstorm! In the very next second, the rich, ripe fruit catches up, caressing the taste buds, like the following rumbling thunder! It finishes on a fine note of toffee. This ‘Act One’ leaves me dumbfounded!

With more airing and gradual warming up in the glass, the nose opens up luxuriously: exotic fruity notes(pineapple, passion fruit and pear) mingles with oaky, buttery and toffee-like aromas. The palate is equally luxurious, with tons of exotic fruits lifted by fine acidity, finishing with imprint of oak and tannin. This is a big boy!

15 minutes after uncorking: fine tones of toast and vanilla joins the broadening spectrum of taste layers. The finish is still noticeably oaky and tannic.

45 minutes after uncorking: as the wine takes more airing and continues to warm up, the oaky, oily, buttery, toffee-like aromas dominate the nose. And the palate grows fatter and more tannic: the fruit turns peachy, with imprint of vanilla.

This is an exciting, unconventional Champagne experience! I noticed in my reading about Henri Giraud Fut de Chene that the age of oak is still quite young, which is clearly evident in the tasting. While I believe Fut de Chene 96 has enough substance to harmonize the new oak / tannin in its long life, I do hope the following releases to be more harmonious with well weathered oak.