
Thanks to Johnny for sourcing this
great wine, and the nice
photos!


Pol
Roger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill 1988 Brut Champagne
(750ml bottle)
Grape
proportions: a secret recipe guarded by the House of Pol Roger, as
a promise to Churchill's family
(guestimate:
70-80% Pinot Noir, 20-30% Chardonnay)
Tasted in
May, 2010




'
I'm easily satisfied with the best.' -- Sir
Winston Churchill
Winston Churchill's
favorite champagne is Pol
Roger. To honor its greatest fan,
Pol Roger named its 'Cuvee de
Prestige' after Churchill's name -- the
debut vintage of 'Cuvee
Sir Winston Churchill' is 1975,
the 10th anniversary of Churchill's death(1965),
made in magnums only. As a
promise to Churchill's family, the House of Pol Roger keeps the
exact cepage as a secret -- but since the
great wine is made in a style
that 'Sir Winston Churchill would have appreciated' and Churchill's
preferences are big, powerful,
robust wines -- wine critics' guestimate of
the grape composition is
around 70-80% Pinot Noir and 20-30% Chardonnay.
The grapes come exclusively from Pol Roger's own Grands Crus
vineyards.
Before
tasting Cuvee Churchill 1988, I've read numerous
comments from champagne nuts on Cuvee
Churchill being a real slow starter. But most of
the normally disgorged 88 bubblies are fairly
evolved already -- as my earlier experiences with
Dom Perignon 88 and Salon 88 have shown -- so how
slow could Cuvee Churchill 88
really be?
It turns out
to be a 'marathon' wine
experience -- beyond my initial
belief
-- that leaves me
only with more admiration
of this Grand Vin!
Tasting
note:
First poured
upon uncorking.
Very pale
golden robe -- much lighter in color than Salon 88
and Dom Perignon 88!
Strangely,
there are only a few fine bubbles barely visible in the glass,
although healthy pressure is felt when popping the
cork.
Initially,
the nose is insanely youthful
yet delicate: nuances of
white flowers mingle with hints of flint, yeast
and walnut. The palate is also
delicate in a restrained poise
-- medium-bodied only, with
big muscles still at rest... Yet
such cushiony mousse, grand
creaminess and yeast-complexed
fruit are impressive
already... (At this
moment, it's really like a less evolved, delicate Pol Roger Blanc
de Chardonnay... The giant Pinot power is still
asleep...)
15 minutes
after uncorking: the palate takes on coffee
finesse.
22 minutes:
the coffee tone begins to mingle with flavor of praline.
1 hour and 5
minutes: the peacock tail of bouquet just begins
to unfold its glory: yeast,
toffee, truffle and praline; on the palate,
truffle also becomes the most noticeable element of the still
delicate taste.
1 hour and
12 minutes: there appear aromas of white chocolate
and walnut oil.
20 minutes
to 2 hours: aroma of truffle now mingles with
insanely youthful note of green apple!
10 minutes
to 2 hours: the nose becomes quite oily, while the mouthfeel is
still exquisitely medium-bodied, with fine tones of coffee and
chocolate, but some naked acidity is felt -- the wine seems to
undergo a changing stage.
2
hours! Oily notes now dominate the nose. The dimension
and the structure expand excitingly on the palate,
oily textured with coffee finesse. Now the real show just
begins!
2 hours 5
minutes: oily dark fruit has swept the floor!
2 hours 10
minutes: buttery nose; the taste is lusciously full with tons of
dark fruits and coffee.
2 hours 20
minutes: luxurious bouquets of dark fruit, chocolate, truffle and
walnut oil! Intense flavors of dark fruits and chocolate are
beautifully wrapped up in silky, oily texture.
Full bodied, but without any heaviness. The finesse is
flawless!
2 hours 40
minutes: almost no change – dark fruits, coffee and chocolate tones
still dominate the scene!
OMG! It
still has no sign of decline, yet we've run out
the very last drop! This marathon player should
drink most beautifully from 2 hours after uncorking till 3+
hours!
Though Pol
Roger does not state it, I personally believe that such slow,
leisurely development of the wine should have something to do
with the selection of grapes from old
vines.
Truly
impressive one, which needs another 5 years or
more to peak!
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