
Champagne decanter
"Long Lady", decanting Clos des Goisses 1997

Photo courtesy: Johnny
Champagne
Clos des Goisses 1997 by Philipponnat
Grape proportions:
70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay
Tasted in
mid Oct, 2009
Partly
decanted for around 10 minutes before serving; the rest
by bottle breathing in ice-bucket for
comparison.
Quite deep
in color for her age -- golden
robe with amber hue. I guess that reflects the
maturity and concentration of grapes from the much
blessed single vineyard
location: quite steep slopes
facing the river!
Comparison
between the decanted and
the bottle-breathed parts:
1. After
10 minutes decantation, the nose opens up and
constantly evolves in the glass, which is a true bonus, BUT the
palate feels bit too soft without much
firm structural support. So this
1997 Goisses cannot really stand up to decantation
now...
2. Luckily,
the bottle-breathed and well chilled part
does show. Initially the nose is green and acidic
with notes
of grass, gooseberry and
green apple, then it gradually opens up to
smoky mineral, black currants
and further evloves
towards coffee, exotic spice and then honey,
oak and roasted nuts. The
palate has a strong mineral print
and coffee length, charged
with exciting,
electrifying mousse!
Tom
Stevenson once commented on Clos des Goisses
1997 as "seemingly without the
fruit", now I see what he meant. The 97 is not a great Clos des
Goisses, but still personal and interesting to me.
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