Salon "S" Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne 1997

Tasted on March 13, 2009

To seasoned bubbly lovers, Champagne Salon is the synonym of 'stringency' and 'austerity', hence not for everyone's taste...So it's very interesting for my friends and I to discover that Salon 97 is so 'un-Salon' and so approachable that I'm sure it will be universally appealing.

Pale gold with hues of green. Abundant and refined mousse.

Deeply perfumed nose from tulip-shaped wine glass. White flowers, orange zest, fresh toasted brioche and bread crust notes are so opulent that even the firm mineral saltiness feels shy in the background. Smile from heart. I could die for such enchanting nose alone...This is late Spring approaching early Summer! (In a regular champagne flute, the nose becomes shy and discreet - green apple, lime, wet stone and slight note of iodine. Always use tulip-shaped wine glass for any Salon to breathe loud!)

On the palate, velvety texture from start to finish. We drink Salon 97 for the course of 2.5 hours. During the first 1.5 hours, the palate is dominated by firm acidity - 'iron fist in velvety glove'. Then the acidity melts down a bit and the wine finds a perfectly balanced sour-sweetness and stays there for half an hour or so. Deep flavor of orange zest seasoned by mineral saltiness. Though there is plenty of extract remaining, complexity already kicks in.

Compared with the much restrained yet exceptionally promising Salon 96, 97 is much more generous, opulent and tender now. So if you ever want to experience what Salon's youthful generosity could be, try out Salon 97! And mind you that Salon had a smaller harvest in 97 than in 96! So don't miss the boat...   

  Photo by courtesy of 'Burgundy Lover'

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Another tasting of SALON 97: mountain stream purity

Tasted in Feb 2010

Very pale greenish yellow. Vigorous effervescence, with streams of tiny bubbles.

Initially, some residual sulphur on the nose. When it’s aired out, the nose exhibits grassy greenness mingled with just a slightest touch of yeasty aroma. With further airing in the glass, the nose takes on an intense, almost austere expression of chalky, flinty minerality. Just exciting!

The first attack on the palate is mountain stream purity and freshness. Compared with the muscular and extremely potent 96, this 97 is more linear and elegant. Very fresh, pure fruit of pear and peach beautifully envelopes the underlying stony minerality, with refreshing acidity! Sheer class!

With more airing and warming up in the glass, the palate takes on more weight though the flavors are still subtle and restrained. The finish is very long which leaves you with an imprint of fresh stone fruits.

This seems have tightened up as compared with an open and charming bottle tasted around one year ago...

Though we have to wait quite some years in order to experience the autumn-scented complexity of Salon 97, its purity and freshness today already leaves me with an unforgettable memory.