Joseph Perrier Cuvee Royale Brut Champagne 1996

Grape proportions: 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Meunier

Disgorged in 2003

Tasted on March 6, 2009

The lower part of the cork was as straight as a rod, which showed the bottle age after disgorgement.

Golden robe with slight amber hue. Fast dissipating mousse and very little effervescence – for a great vintage like 96, it must have been caused by ill storage condition such as upright storage for extensive period of time.

So what’s left was basically a still white wine containing black grape flavours. Bad luck.

Initially, the nose was rather closed. With more airing in glass, more notes of walnut, sea water, caramel and butter came out. Overall, the nose was quite evolved but discreet.

Just a sip, then I found some comfort on the palate. This was still decent even without bubbles. Medium plus body in a tight structure. Intense flavors of apple and citrus fruit mingled with honey, with strong backbone of fine acidity and mineral saltiness. In a Riedel Sommelier vintage champagne glass, the palate became more silky and creamy, while in a tulip-shaped glass, the palate became more spicy.

So despite the fact that this bottle lost the effervescent vigor due to ill storage, I still found a great deal of honesty and substance on the palate, with decent balance of freshness and fullness, of fruit, acidity and minerality. I can imagine how great this bubbly should be, under ideal storage treatment…

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