Bollinger La Grande Annee 1997 Brut Champagne

 

 

Bought in Shanghai @ RMB 1,130 in July, 2008

 

 

Tasted on Nov 20, 2008 @ 兰王烧肉餐厅

 

 

 

 

 

Straw yellow with slight onion hue. Lazy and small bubbles with little effervescence.

 

 

 

 

Opulent nose of orange peel, sea smell, walnut, cameral, toffee, honey, smoky minerals all mingled together. After

 

 

further aired, mushroom and woody notes appear. Much more evolved than our original guestimate, the nose is

 

 

rather dominated by evolved Chardonnay (mineral characteristic), although the Bollinger house style is Pinot Noir

 

 

driven and this 1997 blend is indeed 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay. The reason for minority Chardonnay

 

 

overwhelming majority Pinot Noir, which is a sign of too quick evolution, could well be the low acidity, typical of

 

 

1997 vintage.

 

 

 

 

The palate well confirms the nose. And it’s very interesting! Although in no way lacking weight or complexity, the

 

 

texture is so creamy and supple that the house typical macho/muscular character is already molten down – such

 

 

house-atypical yet unique and charming performance is of course thanks to the low acidity of 97 vintage.

 

 

Even more interesting is the evolution of palate.

 

 

In the first phase, the evolved Chardonnay takes the driver’s seat with strong flavors of orange peel and walnut -

 

 

‘rather Salon-like’ as described by my seasoned wine buddy. This is mingled with Bollinger house-typical smoke

 

 

and honey flavors. Although is mid-palate is bit hollow, the finish is lingering with honey and mineral notes. Overall,

 

 

the first phase palate is more evolved than her actual age, but surely satisfying because of maturity.

 

 

Just when we think she won’t change (for the better) any more, she amazes us again by unveiling a surprising

 

 

second phase palate - her naughty young heart! All of a sudden, all the oxidative flavors vanish, and the young

 

 

Pinot Noir shines through with her charming fruity sour-sweetness (haw flavor). What a La Grande Dame phase!

 

 

This is a truly satisfying wine experience! But in view of little effervescence and low acidity, drink up this La

Grande Annee 1997 bottling (disgorged in 2005)…though it might be a different story with the R.D. 1997…

 

'R.D.' stands for 'Recently Disgorged'. It is the same wine as 'La Grande Annee' but with extended time on lees.