


The CUT Steak & Seafood
Grill
FAIRMONT BEIJING
Dear Cherry,
One of the top Culinary scenes in America, I have fond memories
of my many travel exploits around
San Francisco over the past 28 years, many of which included
drinking in the bar of the venerable
Fairmont Hotel. I was happy to learn that Fairmont entered the
China market in Beijing “Where
ancient dynasties merge with modern wonders”. I anxiously
awaited the completion and opening of the Fairmont Beijing Hotel.
Recently I decided to try their elegant steak &
seafood grill called “The CUT”, so I hopped on the subway and in
just 2 stops, I was there! I had been hearing good things about the
food and service and the high quality drinks at The Champagne Bar,
created by Mixologists. From official hotel press
materials, “With its signature rose-gold glass curtain façade and
exceptionally crafted architecture, the Fairmont Beijing offers the
ultimate in presence, grandeur and elegance taking its rightful
place amid the great landmarks, both modern and historic in the
heart of Beijing’s downtown district. Touches of local flavor and
overtures of contemporary flair are evident throughout the design
elements. Fairmont Beijing’s magnificent lobby design was inspired
by traditional artistic themes and motifs and also boasts such
wonders as the 16 meter artisan-crafted ‘Dancing Sleeves’inspired
Crystal Lighting, an investment of 1 Million USD, which upon closer
inspection resembles hundreds of fish, a symbol of prosperity in
China. The CUT and Champagne Bar, Fairmont Beijing’s latest
gastronomy invention aims to uplift the three concepts of food,
wine, and service. Introducing the dynamic duo who will present
their expertise to create the ultimate dining ambience – the food
blends International cooking method with local flavor; while the
experience will pamper guests with discreet service experiences and
selections of bubbly and fine wines. The CUT, Fairmont Beijing’s
uniquely refined Steak and Seafood Grill with 56 seats sizzles with
a combination of exacting service and inspired cuisine under the
expert eyes of award-winning Chef de Cuisine – Marcus Routbard. The
CUT elevates cuisine to a level beyond that of just a grill as he
crafts fine dining based on a formula
that sees classic favorites reinterpreted with a contemporary
Asian-inspired flair. From the Prime
Australian Wagyu beef to the Spiny Lobster, all dishes contain
authentically local influences, which are prepared in the
restaurant’s dazzling show kitchen. On top of
that, CUT & Champagne Bar Manager and Sommelier –
Faisal Majeeth adds up the ambience with service experience and the
perfection of wine pairings to every plate. Guests are invited to
sample The CUT’s exclusive three-course ‘Food ‘n’ Wine’ pairings
that feature innovative combinations from both land and
sea. A series of ambrosial desserts and
international wines and Champagne add to the exquisite offerings of
the venue, truly making it a ‘Cut’ above the rest. Traditional
steakhouses evoke memories of dark-wood paneled walls and
traditional decor; however The CUT will contradict
all pre-conceived notions of what it means to be a
steakhouse. The overall color theme of rose-gold,
accented with silver pink and rose- gold furniture offers guests a
chic and fashionable destination on the Beijing culinary scene with
its sleek and modern interpretation of classic steakhouse
dining. For those with an appetite for a more
intimate celebration, the adventure detours to the Champagne Bar,
positioned outside The CUT.
With plush furniture and creative appetizers, the Champagne Bar
offers an overwhelming selection of champagnes, fine wine and
signature molecular cocktail collections.”
Upon arrival I went straight to The Champagne Bar for my usual
drinks. Bartenders Peter Yue and
Sam Liu prepared my Martini and my bitters and soda. We talked
about cocktails and I discovered
that they were Mixologists and they had many different kinds of
bitters and custom made concoctions for making creative cocktails
and I was amazed to find out that they had Crème de Violette, a
violet flavored liqueur from Austria so they can make an Aviation
Cocktail, a tasty 1920s American relic designed to celebrate the
fighter pilots of World War I. A lover of the
Aviation, I thought I might be the only one in China to own a
bottle of Crème de Violette, which I brought from
America. I knew then what I would be doing after
dinner! While enjoying my Martini I had a great talk with Reto
Borer, Director of Food & Beverage and Culinary
Operations, and Faisal Majeeth CUT & Champagne Bar
Manager and Sommelier about the wine scene in China and my plans
for the evening.
I also met with Lin Wang, Assistant Manager of Marketing
& Communications to discuss my requirements for
support documents and photos for my article. Faisal brought me to
my table and
introduced me to my Waiter, Peter Du, who poured some sparkling
water and presented me with the
wine list and the menu. I ordered a glass of Deutz Brut Classic
Champagne, which I enjoyed while
reviewing my options for the evening.
The Wine List begins with the Sommelier Selection which includes
3 wines specially selected by the
Sommelier for diners to consider: an Alfred Gratien Cuvee
Classique Champagne; a 2007 Gavi Di
Gavi, by Bruno Broglia from Piedmont, Italy; and a 2008 Privada
(Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend) by Norton from Mendoza,
Argentina. Next are Wines by the Glass with 3
Champagne, 1 Sparkling from Italy, 2 White from Chile
& France, 2 Red from Chile &
France, 1 Dessert from Chile, 2 Ports, and 2
Sherry. The rest of the list is by the bottle
beginning with Champagne & Sparkling
Wines. There is a good selection of Champagne
beginning with 11 Brut Non-Vintage, followed by 6 Brut Vintage, 5
Rose Non-Vintage, 4 Rose Vintage, 2 Signature Selection Dom
Perignon Oenotheque (1995 & 1975), 3 Magnums, and 3
Sparkling Wines from Italy, Spain, & the USA. Next
are White & Rose Wines including 14 from France, 4
Italy, 2 Germany, 1 Austria, 3 South Africa, 3 Australia and 4
Signature Selections From Penfolds in South Australia, 4 New
Zealand, 5 USA, 2 Chile, and 1 China. Red Wines
includes 36 from France, 7 Italy, 2 Spain, 1 South Africa, 9
Australia and 7 Signature Selections From Penfolds, 2 New Zealand,
7 USA, 3 Chile, 1 Argentina, and 1 China. Dessert Wines include 2
from France, 1 Chile, and 1 Canada. Ports
& Sherry has 2 of each.
The Menu begins with Starters: Big Eye Ahi Tuna Carpaccio, 4
Pepper Crust, Soba Noodle Salad,
Pickled Radish, and Ginger Sesame Dressing; Seared Foie Gras,
Vanilla Sous Vide Asian Pear,
Toasted Fig Bred, and Wolfberry Puree; Crab &
Coconut Bisque, Lemon Grass, Red Curry, and
Cilantro; French Onion Soup, Gruyere Cheese, and Bagel Chip;
Hand Cut Beef Tartar, Stockyard
Beef Cut to Order, Quail Egg, Chili & Cucumber
Salad, and Kettle Chips; Market Vegetable &
Spinach Salad, Mandarin Citrus-shallot Vinaigrette, and Roasted
Beet Oil; Seared Diver Scallops &
Crisp Roast Pork Belly, Spring Pea Coulis, Micro Greens, and
Pomegranate Syrup; Chinese Mitten
Crab Salad, Shaved Fennel, and Melon Salad; Colossal Prawn
Cocktail, Pineapple, Avocado, and
Spicy Cocktail Sauce; Caesar Salad, Baby Romaine Heart, Tomato
& Anchovy Compote, Crisp Pancetta, Parmesan Cheese,
and Herb Brioche Crouton. Next is Chef’s
Signature, including Corn Fed Chicken, Slow Roasted Chicken Breast,
Confit Chicken, Cashew Croquette, Sautéed Morning Glory, and
Caramelized Onion Jus; Grilled Idaho Natural Pork Chop, Taro
Fritters, Pear & Raisin Chutney, Sesame Kai Lan,
Hoisin Molasses, and Port Jus; Grilled Tasmanian Salmon Fillet,
Corn & Cabbage Potato Cake, Shitake Mushroom,
Asparagus & Grapefruit Salad, and Shaoxing Maple
Gastrique; Freshwater Rainbow Trout, Almond Crust, Lentil Salad,
Fine Beans, and Brown Butter Sauce; Rack of Lamb, Grilled Lamb
Rack, French Beans, Seed Mustard Dauphinoise Potato, and Thyme Jus;
Roasted Barramundi, Steamed Bok Choy, Nameko Mushrooms, Snow Peas,
and Soy Milk Ginger Broth; Grilled Colossal Prawns
& Diver Scallop, House Cured Gravlax, Lemon
Risotto,and Lobster Oil; Pumpkin & Fine Herb
Ravioli, Seasonal Farmed Vegetables, Rocket Pesto, and Toasted
Macadamia Beurre Noisette. The next section is Charred, The Finest
Prime Cuts, and Fresh Seafood & Produce from Select
Farms. All Steaks Served with a Fine Selection of
Gourmet Mustards & Choice of
Sauce. Australian Stockyard Grain Fed 150 Days,
200/290 gram New York Strip Loin, 200/290 gram Filet Mignon, and
340/450 gram Rib Eye; Australian Stockyard Grain Fed 250 Days, same
offerings as above but with the addition of a 450 gram T-Bone;
Australian Stockyard Wagyu Marble Score 4-5, 200/290 gram Filet
Mignon and 340 gram Rib Eye; Signature Cut for Two, 1100 gram
Australian Stockyard Tomahawk Served with Choices of 2
sides. The Dinner Menu ends with Chef’s Sides, 70
grams Seared Foie Gras; Garlic Fried Spinach; Sautéed Forest
Mushrooms; Fine Herb Buttered Asparagus; Fresh Seasonal Steamed
Vegetables; Sesame Glazed Bok Choy; Celeriac Black Truffle Mash;
Steakhouse Fries; Cut Signature Fries; Spiced Yam Fries; Salt Baked
Potato; and Tsingtao Battered Golden Fried Onion
Rings. The Dessert Menu includes “CUT” Apple
Tart, homemade white truffle ice cream atop of a warm puff pastry
apple tart; A Study of Crème Brulee, a seasonally inspired trio
east meets west brulees; Passion & Cheese, passion
fruit panna cotta glazed with mango sauce and passion fruit seed,
and sliced home made chiffon cheese cake; Iced Green Apple “Pu-Erh”
Chinese Tea, freshly spun green apple sorbet with famous Chinese
Pu-Erh tea anglaise; The Pear, pear infused with Japanese Mirrin,
sake & orange, diced with mango atop a reduced fat
homemade cinnamon ice cream and plum foam; Chocolate Soufflé,
sinful freshly baked chocolate soufflé with India vanilla sauce;
Assiette of Artisanal Cheese, grissini sticks, crisp baguette, and
sesame lavosh.
My Dining Experience began as I discussed the menu with Chef de
Cuisine – Marcus Routbard, and
we decided on a plan for the evening. I ordered a bottle of 2005
M. Chapoutier, Chateau des
Estubiers, Coteaux du Tricastin. Faisal presented the bottle and
opened it to breath and Peter brought the Chef’s Signature Potato
Bread served with unsalted butter and Chimichurri Sauce from
Argentina,made from parsley, olive oil, garlic, and white wine
vinaigrette. On the table were 4 kinds of sea
salt, Black, Smoked, Pink from Murray River, Australia, and White
Maldon from Essex, England, served in 4 glass test tubes with
little corks in a clear acrylic stand. Reto
recommended that I try the bread with butter and the Smoked sea
salt, which I did and it has to be the best bread I have had in a
long time. Served hot, right out of the oven,
this bread was utterly fantastic. With a crispy
curst outside and being soft, light and airy on the inside, and
very unique flavors due to the potato content, it was
great! Treating it as a dinner course, I ate the
whole loaf and enjoyed it with the Champagne, which were a good
match, yeast and yeast. Marcus brought my Amuse Bouche of Forest
Mushroom Chowder with Goat Cheese Gougere and Truffled Mascarpone.
The chowder was rich and creamy smooth and packed with flavor,
leaving me with the urge to ask for more but I resisted because a
lot more was coming from the kitchen over the next few hours. While
watching the cooks working in the totally open kitchen, I enjoyed
my cold Champagne and listening to the music, modern
interpretations of the “Old Standards”, coming from speakers
located in the ceiling. Peter brought my next course, Hand
Harvested Seared Diver Scallops & Crisp Roast Pork
Belly, with Spring Pea Coulis, Micro Greens, and Pomegranate
Syrup. It smelled fabulously and the plate was
beautifully decorated. The scallops were tender and cooked just
enough to be done and tasted great alone. Then I tried it dipped in
the elegantly seasoned coulis, then with the syrup, and finally
with the pork belly which was big in flavor with crispy skin on top
and tender meat below. I mixed it all up in the end for the
intended
flavor effect and washed it down with the Champagne. Wow, this
was a perfect combination! While
waiting for my next course I started working on the red
wine. From the Southern Rhone Valley in
France, it was bone dry with good red berry fruit, strong
tannins, and good structure. Interestingly, the
label included brail for the vision impaired, a considerate
feature. Marcus came with the Pumpkin
& Fine Herb Ravioli, with Seasonal Farmed
Vegetables (Carrots, Snow Peas, Cherry Tomatoes, Squash, and
Spinach), Rocket Pesto, and Toasted Macadamia Beurre Noisette. It
smelled very good and I was thinking how well the wine was going to
go with this dish. The ravioli was cooked al dente and the sweet
pumpkin filling was truly unique, like a pumpkin pie in
ravioli. The toasted macadamia nuts added
crunchiness and a great burst of flavor, while the vegetables were
tender and flavorful.
Very nice. I enjoyed the wine immensely with
it and in total….it was magnificent! Peter brought
Blood Orange Sorbet as a palate cleanser. It was cold and smooth
and sweet. Next was Australian
Stockyard Wagyu Marble Score 4-5, 290 gram Filet Mignon, served
with 5 mustards: Tarragon, Green Peppercorn, Dijon, Mustard Seed,
and Honey & Balsamic. Peter and Faisal brought my
steak and side dishes including Celeriac Black Truffle Mashed
Potatoes and Tsingtao Battered Golden Fried Onion Rings. The
potatoes were satin smooth and rich with truffle flavor, and the
onion rings were crispy and sweet, all promising to be good
accompaniments to the beef. The Wagyu tenderloin was perfectly
cooked and ultra tender. I added a little sea
salt and pepper and loved it as is, with an occasional dip into the
green peppercorn sauce or 1 of the 5 mustards just for fun. I
enjoyed the Honey & Balsamic mustard, which
provided a sweet & sour taste effect, but the meat
alone with a little Murray River sea salt and pepper was my
favorite flavor variation, followed by a sip of the peppery wine
and a spoon of mashed potatoes. This was the
process I repeated until my steak was gone. The onion rings were
gone early and were a great snack with dinner. Oh
well, nothing lasts forever! Rickey Deng replaced Peter and cleared
my table. Marcus came to discuss dessert and we
decided that I “needed” to try the Chocolate Soufflé, sinful
freshly baked chocolate soufflé with India vanilla
sauce. Faisal brought my soufflé and it did look
good and smelled even better. I poked a hole in
the top of the soufflé and poured the vanilla sauce inside while
thinking about how good it would be.
The chocolate & vanilla combination was great
and I stayed with the red wine because I like red wine with
chocolate. This was a decadently sweet dessert and a wonderful way
to end this great
steakhouse experience. Life is good at The CUT in Fairmont
Beijing. I retired to the Champagne Bar for my
beloved and rare Aviation to finish off the
night. Sam made it beautifully with The Bitter
Truth brand of Crème de Violette. You can try it yourself by
experimenting with variations on this formula: 1 ¾ oz. Gin, ¼ oz.
Crème de Violette, ½ oz. Fresh Lemon Juice, ¼ oz. Luxardo, shake
with ice until very cold and pour into a martini glass with a
Maraschino Cherry. Although slightly modified by
Sam to include their own lime cordial recipe instead of lemon
juice, I savored my Aviation while talking with Faisal about how
much I enjoyed the entire evening. For an
alternative to what you expect from a typical steakhouse, treat
yourself to a special night at Fairmont Beijing beginning with a
glass of Champagne or a Cocktail in The Champagne Bar, then stroll
over to the The CUT for a sumptuous and delicious dining
experience. I greatly appreciate the professional and attentive
service I received from all team members and I am looking forward
to returning soon to see everyone and to try some other dishes,
perhaps the Prime Rib on Thursdays. Thanks again
and see you soon!
CHEERS!
My Best as Always,
Randy
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