Le Foie Gras – Shaved black truffles and potatoes with
olive oil, topped with carpaccio of foie gras.
This was accompanied by a 2000 Mer Soleil Chardonnay from
California. A delicate dish, more so than it
appeared, the thin sliced foie gras was very
light. The potatoes, olive oil, and herbs built
up a little more flavor, and the black truffles added fuller
flavors, but overall the dish remained refined and
delicate. It was a combination I have not had
before. When tasting the wine with the sauce
created by the olive oil and herbs, they blended as if they were
one, so good! In a classic pairing success, the
chardonnay went very well with the dish and was the way I like it,
oaky and full-bodied, but not enough to overpower the
food. This particular wine is one of my favorites
and I am always happy to see it being poured for me.
Le Caviar Oscietre – Jelly of caviar with cauliflower
cream, caviar in thin slices of warm scallops with lime zest, soft
inside crispy outside egg and Oscietra caviar. This dish was served
on an oval mirror, and on the left bottom was a gold rimmed China
plate with the egg and Oscietra caviar and above that some green
plants from the bottom of the sea with a little star fish and a
shell on top. Central bottom was a small white
bowl with round cauliflower cream cover with a circle of green dots
made from a sauce and a little leaf in the center, which covered
the jelly of caviar. Below this on the mirror
were 2 green reeds and above was a red rose
petal. Right bottom had a mother-of-pearl scallop
shell with the slices of warm scallops with lime zest in it, and
above that an arrangement of grey and white
pearls. Also scattered on the mirror were green
and blue glass jewels.
Going back to the Champagne for this course, Morgan explained
that I should eat it by starting in the middle, then to the left
and to the right. Not used to seeing inedible
decorations on my plate, I joked with Morgan that I should be
careful not to eat the decorations, which looked so
beautiful. So, starting in the middle, underneath
the cream cover was the jelly of caviar, which was salty and very
good with the Champagne, as were the egg and caviar and the sliced
scallops covered with foam of lime zest. I
happily ate these 3 combinations in the order prescribed.
Les Cuisses de Grenouille – Crispy French frog’s legs
with parsley and garlic sauce. Served on a curved
white plate were 3 little frog’s leg tops on the left and the
parsley puree arranged to look like a green stem with leaves and
the garlic sauce looking like a white flower. I
picked up each frog’s leg by the little bone and smeared it through
the garlic sauce and parsley puree. Popping it in
my mouth resulted in a burst of garlic flavor with the lightly
fried frog leg, which combined well with the Mer Soleil
Chardonnay. Also on the plate were a couple of
crisps of garlic, which were real flavor bombs and as I like a lot
of flavor this really pleased me. Unfortunately,
while I was still chewing my last frog’s leg and looking forward to
finishing the garlic sauce with some bread, one of the waiters
tried to take my plate, which I rejected.
Disappointed to see this at a Robuchon restaurant, I call this
“attack service” and I discussed it with Morgan.
Les Crustaces – Truffled langoustine ravioli with
cabbage, lemon grass roasted lobster with vegetable couscous, sea
urchin in royal and fennel reduction. This course
of 3 small dishes was served on a square black plate with gold leaf
spots in it and decorated with some fish net, pussy willow and
shells. Each dish was in it’s own smaller plate; square, pointed
oval, and shell style bowl. I had a lot of fun
enjoying the artistic presentation of each course throughout the
evening. Served with this course was a 2007
Chardonnay by Cova Da Ursa of Portugal. Fresh,
mineral, a little fruity, light and floral, it was quite different
than the last Chardonnay and it was well suited to these flavor
combinations. I particularly enjoyed the lobster,
which was cooked with a stalk of lemon grass through
it. The burst of lemon grass flavor when biting
into the lobster was a real treat for me. I also
enjoyed the scampi like truffled langoustine ravioli with cabbage
as well with the crisp and acidic Chardonnay; mild flavors with the
complex wine. The ravioli was topped with
shredded black truffle in julienne fashion, which I busted up and
it fell down all over the top of the ravioli and on to the
plate. It was a nice way to add black truffle and
contributed a lot of color and texture to the dish while spreading
the flavor of the truffle evenly. Often when
sliced truffle is added to a dish, you get bursts of truffle
flavor, but here the flavor was more evenly applied and I liked
having the option to spread the truffle flavor more
evenly. Normally cabbage is cabbage, but this was
one of the best preparations I have had and nothing was left on
this plate. Although sea urchin is not one of my
normal picks (probably due to my ignorance of it) baked with fennel
this example was quite pleasing to me with big flavors and an
excellent sauce. We are all learning,
right? I liked it.
La Chataigne – Light cream of chestnuts with bacon on top
of delicate celery foam. This was served on a
black rectangular sectioned plate. Morgan
explained that the Mer Soleil Chardonnay was perfect with this
dish. With a base of foie gras and bacon, the
chestnut soup would blend together perfectly with the
wine. On top of the soup was celery foam with
black truffle and chestnut crisp with flavors of cheese and
bacon. The bacon was not what we normally find in
America, thin and crispy. Here it was thicker, a
real piece of meat. There were cubes of bacon and
foie gras in the chestnut soup and each cube, when eaten with the
soup, was another flavor burst. There were also
chunks of chestnut in the blended chestnut soup.
On the plate was what looked like a little piece of pizza with many
of the ingredients mentioned baked into it, which you could break
up and put in the soup, or eat it with the soup.
I chose to take a bite of it and follow it with the
soup. It was great.
L’Amadai – Amadai confit in spicy oil with endives and
saffron broth. A fish from Japan, it was prepared
pan fried and crispy with dill and other herbs.
With this dish, we switched back to the crisper Chardonnay by Cova
Da Ursa. The fish was good and the flavor of the
dill and other herbs came through clearly and gave the fish a lot
of flavor that was good with the saffron broth.
The acidity of the wine cut through the multiple flavors of the
herbs and the strong broth and gave a nice finish to each bite when
followed with the wine. At this point I had a
nice talk with Chef Francky Semblat about my experience so far and
how much I was enjoying all the food, the ambience, and the
service. I told him I was already looking forward
to coming back for more!
La Cote de Veau – Sauteed veal chop with black truffle
jelly jus, black truffle and braised pak-choy.
This was served with a 2001 Chateau Calon, a nice full bodied and
balanced red wine from Saint-Emilion in Bordeaux,
France. The veal was presented like a small
filet, a strip about a half-inch thick, an inch and a half wide,
and 4 inches long. I cut the first piece off and
ate it with the sauce and thought it was the best piece of veal I
have ever had. It was very tender and perfectly
cooked. Lukas told me it was the best cut of the
veal. What I had before me was an absolutely
delightful piece of meat, and the wine went very well with it as I
suspected it would. The black truffle jelly
looked like a hard stick on the plate, 3 inches long and a quarter
of an inch wide, but when I tapped it with my fork it was
soft. I ate half of it and it tasted like black
truffle because it was made from powdered black
truffle. It was certainly different, and
good.
La Nouille – Pearl pasta in smoked cream and crispy
pork. This was risotto style pasta served with
crispy pork skin. I looked at the dish and
thought it looked really light, but I put a spoon of it in my mouth
and it was powerful with big flavors from a small
package. It also went well with the same red
wine, a good blend of flavors.
La Truffe Noire – Heart of Louis XIII Grande Champagne
candy in ice black truffle surprise. This looked
like a chocolate ball, but was ice cream with powerded black
truffle coating it with gold paper on top. A
little ball, it had a lot going on inside; sweet, offset by the
black truffle on the outside, cool and refreshing, I really liked
it. This was served with a sweet dessert wine
from Sauternes, France, which I saved until after the
dessert. Generally, I prefer a dry red wine with
sweets and I love to follow that with a sweet dessert wine.
La Mangue – Mango with sake ice cream and grapefruit
granite. In a white bowl there was a wafer thin
chocolate caramel layer across the top that looked like plastic,
apparently held in place by 4 gold flakes, with a hole in the
middle and a straw of white chocolate sticking out of the
hole. I broke the cover with the straw to expose
the ice cream under it and then ate the straw. This was excellent
and really power packed with flavors I’ve never had with mango ice
cream. This dish was served on an oval mirror
with green painted designs underneath an arrangement of green and
red ribbons on a square piece of glass placed in diamond formation
with the bowl atop that. The very creative
inedible decorations on this and the other plates mentioned above
were unprecedented in my experience in any restaurant and were a
surprise and delight for me to behold. They added
another touch of elegance to my experience. It
was art in addition to the art in the food, which was truly unique
and I never saw it before.
Le Café ou le The – Coffee or tea served with sweet
temptation. I chose to finish with my usual Irish
Coffee which was perfectly made, strong and creamy the way I like
it with double Irish whiskey.
In summary, I was really comfortable in this
restaurant. Looking across the expanse of the
room and listening to piano by Chopin I loved the design; the
beauty of the backlit yellow marble tapered columns, the dazzling
stars in the ceiling glittering and twinkling above me, the
consistency in the designs, the blue and gold theme, it was all so
elegant. As I have said before in another review
of a French restaurant, sometimes I just have to do it
French. Looking at all this, it was indeed
French. Frankly, this night was near perfect and
I was happy and it’s hard to beat that for me.
What can I say? This restaurant has taken me over
the top in some new areas and Robuchon a Galera did not let
me down. The image I had of what a Robuchon
restaurant should be and how good it should be led me to demand
that it be that good. My expectations were met
and indeed exceeded. The food, wine, service, and
the restaurant’s stunningly elegant interior design were all
extraordinary. I extend my sincerest gratitude to
the Hostess Denny Liao, the wait staff (especially Eddy Chen,
Selina Liu, Jessie Rui, and Lukas Song), Captain June Sun,
Assistant Manager Morgan Lei, Manager Dives Chiu, Chef Francky
Semblat and his kitchen staff, Joël Robuchon, and the owners of
Hotel Lisboa for a wonderful dining experience.
Also thanks to Vienna Mak in the Front Office, and Eugenia Ip and
Maggie Mui in Marketing for their organizational
support. Although this was my
first visit to one of Joël Robuchon’s legendary establishments, it
is only the beginning of my quest to experience his other fine
restaurants around the world. As they say, “It’s
a tough job, but somebody has to do it”! Over and
out!
With Happiness, CHEERS!
My Best as Always,
Randy
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