兰迪邮箱 Randy’s Mail Box_GrandHotels

Andrea Palladio (1508 – 1580)，是意大利伟大的建筑家之一。他设计的著名的宫殿别墅、坐落于Vicenza 附近的Villa Rotonda 更使他成为了西方建筑史上最有影响力的大师之一。受到这具有天才性的创作的影响，波特曼-丽兹卡尔顿在酒店内精装修的餐厅PALLADIO为客人们提供正宗的意大利饮食，让您即使不在意大利也能感受到意大利的美食。厨师Francesco Greco 和经理Maurizio Moncalvo向我展示了许多融合了意大利和丽兹卡尔顿传统的署名盘子。我必须说当我想要在上海尝到真正的一流的意大利食物时，我总是会选择PALLADIO。餐厅内充满质感的设计是我见过的最具吸引力的设计之一，实在是华丽至极。视线所到之处，总能感受到设计中流露出来的从建筑家Palladio那里得来的灵感，餐厅内陈列的建筑奇迹的模型让人目不暇接，当这些与充满创造力的内部设计互相碰撞时，它们所产生的效果令人感到惊艳。我可以在那里坐上几个小时，回想着意大利的历史，陪伴我的，只需一瓶上等的意大利红酒足矣。然而今晚，我想让自己在餐厅中得到全身心的释放，当我在享受曼妙的音乐，以及在上海这个炎热的夏天感受餐厅内的空调带来的一丝凉意时，同时也体会到葡萄酒、晚餐、服务、典雅的气氛带来的美好感受。

餐厅内设有两个饭厅。一个有一个小的吧台和可供休息的区域，在那里你可以喝上一杯或是等待用餐。另一个饭厅中同样有一个吧台，你可以在那里享受美食，并可以看到开放式厨房内的一切动静。饭厅中央有一张大的白色大理石桌子，上面摆着漂亮的植物还有葡萄酒瓶子，给人以深刻的印象。在和餐厅的高级员工Philippe的谈话中，我了解到波特曼-丽兹卡尔顿最近被授予了白金五星酒店的称号，为了以示庆祝，当我在浏览酒单和菜单后，我点了一杯Moet Chandon Brut Imperial香槟。酒单着实让我眼前一亮，上面写有36种不同的香槟。有13种是一杯杯供应还有是半瓶供应。这些给一顿晚餐的葡萄酒提供了足够多的选择，但我更愿意看到杯装和瓶装的酒从中间一直延伸到顶端。可能早就预料到了这一点，酒单内还有几页上印有瓶装的意大利酒，这是我在上海见过的最好的意大利酒的酒单。当然，除了意大利葡萄酒外，餐厅还提供来自法国、美国、阿根廷、西班牙、澳大利亚、新西兰、智利、南非和葡萄牙的葡萄酒。还有11款作为餐后甜点的葡萄酒，没有包括在内。

我最喜欢来自中国Grace Vineyards庄园的价值人民币380元的Tasya’s Reserve Chardonnay and Merlot以及价值人民币720元的Chairman’s Reserve Bordeaux，真是物有所值。这是上海最好、品种最全的葡萄酒单，你可以根据你的需要来点酒。全意大利料理的菜单也非常完善，从Degustation菜单开始，5道菜的晚餐从人民币588元到人民币1,088元不等，其中还包括葡萄酒。我的美食之旅从一系列的意大利开胃菜开始，随后是chestnut flour pappardelle with morels and porcini mushrooms，其次是parmesan risotto with pan-fried goose liver and sage，紧接着是steamed Chilean sea bass with stewed onions, oranges, and black olives，最后你可以选择暖巧克力、香草酱苹果冰糕或是来自意大利的上好干酪。这么多的选择，让我几乎有些无所适从，所以我决定将来尝试更多的菜肴。在看了开胃菜单之后，我惊奇地发现9种意大利经典佳肴，而接下来的汤非常可口并有意大利调味饭和面食，另外，主菜有龙虾、鱼和肉可供选择。

我注意到餐厅即使是在周二晚上，生意也十分兴隆。因为我花了大量的时间在研究葡萄酒菜单上，因此晚餐开始得有点晚。我点了white bean soup with sautéed prawns and crispy bacon作为晚餐的开始。这道汤棒极了！Moncalvo先生用来自Marchesi de Frescobaldi的意大利玻璃杯作为器皿，就是一般用来装白葡萄酒酒杯，晶莹剔透，同时也保证了汤的温度恰到好处。我要了2种特别的面食作为开胃菜，分别是fettuccine with artichokes, white Bolognese sauce and black truffles, and a fresh home made tortelloni pasta with ricotta and spinach, and prosciutto Saint Daniele。原料十分新鲜，口感也非常好。因为要保持身材，通常我都避免面食，但今晚良辰美酒，我决定将这些暂时抛在脑后，好好享受。2005年Russiz Superiore的葡萄酒与这些美味搭配别具风味。接着我尝试了清蒸海鲈鱼与罗勒、洋葱、柑桔、橄榄和肉汤，配合同样来自意大利2004年的Alois Lageder pinot noir。鱼鲜嫩可口，鲜美的汤汁与葡萄酒在口中完美的融合，充盈了整个味蕾。我的主菜是venison Rosinni style with pumpkin confit and pan-fried goose liver，丰富的汤汁结合着红葡萄酒的甘醇，简直妙不可言！Moncalvo先生又推荐了一种2003年的Villa Calcinala Reserva，Conti Carponi, Chianti Classico。真是一款好酒！令我忍不住再要了一杯。在丰盛的甜点后我品尝了一杯爱尔兰咖啡，十分纯正。在Grappa-Prunottto后，我与Moncalvo先生聊起了整晚的感受。

由于我是第一个到达餐厅又是最后一个离开的客人，我肯定餐厅内的工作人员都对我很“熟悉”了，他们都是我在此不得不提的人。从厨房中主厨Francesco Greco以及其他水平高超的厨师，到大堂里Maurizio Moncalvo和别的相当专业的服务生，你会发现你很难在一家现代的宾馆餐厅内找到如此优秀的工作团队。而PALLADIO的服务也是一流的，所有的葡萄酒都在经过了小心翼翼的开瓶、品尝后由服务生Jenny倒入了Riedel葡萄酒杯中，Scott总是在关键时刻将食物呈现在你面前，而Robin又常常会看准时机将剩余的食物拿走。在我的就餐过程中，我从未对于他们的工作节奏有丝毫匆忙或不舒服的感受。这对我来说实在是一次美好的体验，我很期待我能在不久的将来在此光顾这家餐厅。再次祝贺波特曼丽兹卡尔顿赢得白金五星酒店称号这一殊荣，并感谢她向我们提供了每晚在PALLADIO享受美食的机会。尽管让人感到有些遗憾的是，波特曼丽兹卡尔顿不是《大酒店》“读者俱乐部会员餐厅”的会员，但我想一旦她成为了《大酒店》的会员，一定会有更多的客人前去光顾的，当然我也会鼓励他们考虑加入会员餐厅的行列。不管怎么样，我现在得回去了！干杯！

兰迪

Andrea Palladio (1508 – 1580), was a great Italian architect. His designs for palaces (palazzi) and villas, notably the Villa Rotonda near Vicenza made him one of the most influential figures in Western architecture. Inspired by the work of this genius, the Portman Ritz-Calrton offers one of the finest Italian dining experiences outside of Italy at their beautifully designed restaurant PALLADIO. Chef de Cuisine Francesco Greco and Manager/Sommelier Maurizio Moncalvo present a variety of signature dishes blending the best of Italian and Ritz-Carlton traditions. I must say that when I am feeling like having a truly elegant Italian style dinner in Shanghai, I always choose PALLADIO. Firstly, the physical design of this restaurant is absolutely gorgeous, one of the most beautiful I have seen. The eyes are met with a myriad of design details derived from the great architect Palladio. Literally everywhere I looked displayed examples of one architectural wonder after another. Coupled with the accents of creative interior design, the result was truly stunning. I could sit there for hours contemplating Italian history while enjoying nothing more than a great bottle of Italian wine. However, this night I chose to immerse myself in the full potential of the restaurant; the wine, the dinner, the service, and the impeccable ambience, while enjoying the soft music and the air conditioning on this sweltering summer night in Shanghai.

There are two dining rooms. One has a small bar and sitting area where you can have a drink and wait for your table. The other room has another bar where you can sit and eat and watch the activities in the open kitchen. A large white marble table is in the middle of the dining room where a floral arrangement and wine bottles give a nice effect. In talking with Philippe, Senior Staff, I learned that the Portman Ritz-Carlton had recently been awarded The 5 Star Platinum Hotel Award. To celebrate, I ordered a glass of Moet Chandon Brut Imperial champagne while I reviewed the wine list and the menu. The wine list was impressive, indeed, with 36 different champagne offerings. There were 13 wines offered by the glass and 13 half bottles, giving the single diner an adequate selection of wines to choose from, but I would prefer to see a few more from the middle to higher end, both by the glass and by the half bottle. As might be expected here, there were several pages of Italian wines to choose from by the bottle, the best selection of Italian wines I have seen in Shanghai. Also offered were wines from France, the United States, Argentina, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Portugal. There were 11 dessert wines, not including the port list. From China, my favorite Grace Vineyards was represented with their Tasya’s Reserve Chardonnay and Merlot offered at 380 RMB, and their Chairman’s Reserve Bordeaux style blend at 720 RMB; a good value for the price. This is one of the best and most comprehensive wine lists in Shanghai, and you can spend as little or as much as you want to spend! The all Italian menu was also well thought out and complete, beginning with the Degustation Menu, a 5 course set dinner for 588 RMB or 1088 RMB inclusive of the wine parings. This meal begins with a selection of Italian antipasti, followed by a chestnut flour pappardelle with morels and porcini mushrooms. Then comes parmesan risotto with pan-fried goose liver and sage. Next is a steamed Chilean sea bass with stewed onions, oranges, and black olives. Finally you have a choice for dessert of either the warm chocolate timbale, green apple sorbet and vanilla sauce, or a selection of fine Italian cheeses. I almost went with the set dinner option, but decided to experiment more with the menu. I looked over the appetizer list and found 9 interesting choices of classic Italian fare. Next, 3 soups were available and 9 risotto and pasta offerings. Main courses included 4 lobster and fish choices and 5 meats.

I noticed that the room was well attended for a Tuesday night and that I was getting a late start because I spent a lot of time with the wine list and menu. Deciding to get started, I began with the white bean soup with sautéed prawns and crispy bacon, a delightful soup which Mr. Moncalvo pared with a very nice glass of an Italian 2005 blend from Marchesi de Frescobaldi, served at the perfect temperature, not too cold which is all too usual with white wines. I requested a special sampling of two of the pastas as my appetizer; fettuccine with artichokes, white Bolognese sauce and black truffles, and a fresh home made tortelloni pasta with ricotta and spinach, and prosciutto Saint Daniele. All pastas are made fresh on the premises and these two examples were wonderful.

Normally I avoid pasta due to my endless struggle with my weight, but I am very happy I decided to deviate this evening. The 2005 cabernet sauvignon by Russiz Superiore was another perfect accompaniment to these excellent pasta selections. Next I had the steamed sea bass with basil, onions, oranges, and olive broth, pared with a glass of 2004 Alois Lageder pinot noir, also from Italy. The fish was light and delicate and the wine reacted nicely with the sauce. Progressing up the flavor scale, my final course was venison Rosinni style with pumpkin confit and pan-fried goose liver. This was great! Highly flavorful and with an excellent sauce, it begged for a big red wine to go with it. Mr. Moncalvo again provided the solution; a 2003 Villa Calcinala Reserva, Conti Carponi, Chianti Classico. Wow, what a long name, but a great wine! This combination was so good I had to have a second glass. Too full for dessert, I finished with an Irish coffee, which was excellent, followed by a Grappa-Prunottto while I discussed my impressions of the evening with Mr. Moncalvo.

As one of the first to arrive and the last to leave, I was certainly well known by the management and staff, all of whom deserve some comments at this point. From the chef Francesco Greco and his talented staff in the kitchen, to Maurizio Moncalvo and his attentive staff in the dining room, you would be hard pressed to find a better team in a modern hotel restaurant. The service at PALLADIO was first class. All wines were carefully opened, tested, and poured into Riedel wine glasses by the charming Jenny. Scott brought all the food at the correct intervals, and Robin took away what little was left. I never felt rushed or uncomfortable with the pace. This was a truly wonderful experience which I look forward to repeating again soon. Congratulations to the Portman Ritz-Carlton on winning the prestigious 5 Star Platinum Hotel Award and for providing us with the opportunity to experience PALLADIO any night of the week. It’s too bad, however, that the Portman Ritz-Carlton Shanghai does not participate in our GRAND HOTELS Reader’s Club. I think many of us would visit more often if they were a member of our club and I encourage them to consider joining with us. Regardless, I shall return! CHEERS!

My Best as Always,

Randy

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