生活本身就是琐碎廉价的,食材不重要,重要的是味道。
http://photo7.hexun.com/p/2007/0810/119692/b_5268414AD202443BB972EAFF163FF75F.jpg
In many ways,the
work of a critic is easy.We risk very little,yet enjoy a position
over those who offer up their work and their selves to our
judgment.We thrive on negative criticism,which is fun to write and
to read.But the bitter truth we critics must face is that in the
grand scheme of things,the average piece of junk is probably more
meaningful than our criticism designating it so.
But there are times
when a critic truly risks something and that is in the discovery
and defense of the new.The world is often unkind to new talent,new
creations.The new needs friends.
Last night,I
exerienced something new,an extraordinary meal frodm a singularly
unexpected source.To say that both the meal and its maker have
challengde my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross
understatement.They have rockde me to my core.
In the past,I have
made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous
motto,"Anyone can cook."But I realize only now do I truly
understand what he meant.Not everyone can become a great artist,but
a great artist come from anywhere.
It is
difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius
now cooking at Gusteau's,who is,in this critic's poinion,nothing
less than the finest chef in France.I will be returning to
Gusteau's soon,hungry for more.It was a great night.The happiest of
my life.
“就很多方面来说评论家的工作是很轻松的。我们冒的风险很小却位高权重,人们必须奉上作品和他们自己供我们评论。我们以负面评论见称,那些评论读起来和听起来都很有意思。可是,评论家必须面对一个尴尬的事实:就价值而言,批评家的批评也许比那些被批评为平庸之物的东西更加平庸。
可是有时候评论家真的要去冒险去发现并且捍卫新的事物。这个世界对待新秀、新的创作总是非常苛刻,新人和新作都需要朋友。
昨晚,我拥有了全新的体验,奇妙的一餐来自令人意想不到的地方。如果说那一餐和它的创造者挑战了我对精致美食先入为主的观念,这仍只是轻描淡写的说法,他们彻底震撼了我。
过去,我公开表示对食神古斯多的著名格言“人人都可以料理”不屑,但是我发觉现在我才真正了解它的意思---并非任何人都能成为伟大的艺术家,但是伟大的艺术家可能来自任何地方。
实在是很难想象现在在古斯特餐厅的天才厨师他的出身是如此的地位,但在我看来,它是法国最好的厨师。我不就会在光临古斯特餐厅,来满足我的口腹之欲。那是美好的一晚,我生命中最快乐的一夜。”
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