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哈尔滨，东方莫斯科的绰约身影

文/图 冰城馨子

 

        我喜欢哈尔滨的老建筑，带着相机几乎走遍了哈尔滨的大街小巷，拍摄了哈尔滨无数的老建筑、洋建筑。哈尔滨有着大量美丽又富有历史意义的建筑，哥特式、巴洛克式、折中主义、新文化运动，以及“中华巴洛克”，这些汇集近现代欧洲古典建筑精华和中西文化交融的固体符号，折射出哈尔滨城市文化的历史侧影。她们是城市历史文化发展的生动载体，是城市风貌特色的具体体现，是不可再生的宝贵文化资源。

 

1. Central Avenue

“If you haven’t been to Central Avenue, you can’t say that you’ve been to Harbin.” Central Avenue enjoys high status in the city. Many people think Harbin is westernized. Why? Just look at the European buildings along Central Avenue, and you will find the answer.

 

一． 中央大街：万国建筑博物馆

    “没有到过中央大街，就不能说来过哈尔滨”，从这句话里你就可以感受到中央大街在哈尔滨这个城市中的地位。很多人说哈尔滨这个城市很洋气，洋气在哪？当然建筑是最鲜明的代表，而中央大街正是哈尔滨欧陆风情表现最集中的一条街。

中央大街 Central Avenue. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi] 

 

 

教育书店 Education Bookstore of Central Avenue. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi]

   The Construction of Central Avenue began in 1896. In 1924, the avenue was tiled by a Russian engineer named Kemutera Shock. It was built with square stones, which cost one dollar each. At that time, a dollar could support an ordinary Chinese citizen for a month. Therefore, this 700-meter avenue could be called the “gold avenue”. Citizens in Harbin like to call these stones bread stones. It is also said that these stones share a lot of similarities with those on Albart Street in Moscow.

 

中央大街始建于1896年，1924年俄国工程师科姆特拉肖克设计监工，为当时的“中国大街”铺上了方石块，那时一块方石价值是1美元，1美元是一个平民一个月的生活费，七百多米长的大街，真可谓是金子铺出来的路。哈尔滨人喜欢把这长方的花岗岩石称为面包石，据说石头道与俄罗斯阿尔巴特街的花岗石路有着惊人的相似。

 

Stone pavement onCentral Avenue. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi] 

Walking on Central Avenue, you can feel the strong exotic atmosphere from the various styles and splendid buildings, even if you know nothing about western architecture styles. When I went to Europe, I said to my friends that everywhere looked like Central Avenue. It wasn’t until that moment did I understand the reason why Central Avenue is called World Architecture Exhibition.

 在中央大街上，既使对西方建筑的任何风格都不了解的话，仅从它形式多样、建筑精美、充满情调的视觉上，就可以感受到这里浓郁的异域风情。在我去欧洲时，好几次与同伴一起惊讶的感慨：怎么这里到处都是中央大街啊，简直太像了，这个时候我才真正明白了中央大街被称为万国建筑博物馆的因由。

 

Night views on Central Avenue. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi] 

 

2. Churches in Harbin—a kind of complex

 

If Central Avenue is the most famous place in Harbin, then St. Sophia Church Square must be the second. The church not only witnessed the time-honored history of this city, but it also embodies the romance of this young city.

二． 哈尔滨教堂：寄托一种情结

 

    如果说哈尔滨最有名气的游览之地是中央大街的话，那么，圣•索菲亚教堂广场一定紧紧排在中央大街的后面。对于哈尔滨人来说，索菲亚教堂不但见证了这座城市沉重的历史，更承载了哈尔滨这座年轻城市的浪漫情

怀。

 

St. Sophia Church. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi]

 

St. Sophia Church is the best-preserved example of Byzantine architecture in China. It was built in 1923 and was once the biggest church made of brick and wood in the Far East. It is a combination of all kinds of architecture styles with a Russian dome and Roman clerestory.

 

     索菲亚大教堂是目前中国保存最完美的典型拜占庭式建筑，这座建于1923年，历时九年修建的圣·索菲亚教堂是当时远东地区最大的砖木大教堂，有着俄罗斯式的穹顶、罗马风格的拱券高窗，是多种建筑艺术风格的有机组合。

 

St. Sophia Church. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi]  

 

It is said that Harbin once had 54 churches. But now, less than 10 churches remain. However, the complex of churches are maintained in the city. Houses of worship have become the central squares in every sector of Harbin, such as The Church of the Protection of the Mother of God on Dongdazhijie Street, the Church of the Mother of God on Gogol Street and the Mosque on Tao Street. These not only remain as worship centers, but they are also places for people to relax and unite. Maybe that’s the influence left by Russia?

 

    据说，哈尔滨教堂最多的时候有54所，虽然到现在余下的不足10座，但由哈尔滨教堂历史形成的教堂情结一直在这个城市里弥漫着，教堂成为城市各个区域里的广场中心，比如东大直街上的圣母守护教堂、基督教、圣母安息教堂，果戈里大街上的圣母教堂，道外南十三道街的清真寺，这些教堂不仅依然保持着原有的教堂功能，还是人们休闲、浪漫聚集的一个小小中心，也许，这就是俄罗斯欧陆风情带给这个城市的影响吧？

 

 The inside view of St. Sophia Church. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi] 索菲亚教堂内部
 

3.Volga manor: a unique feeling

 

When Nicolas Cathedral became a symbol of the old generation in Harbin, Mr Huang, a stubborn entrepreneur from Northeast China, began to pursue his dream - construct a Russian-style manor combining history, culture, architecture and art.

 

三、伏尔加庄园：一份别样的怀想

    当尼古拉大教堂已经成为老一代哈尔滨人怀念的一种情结，成了哈尔滨人心底一座美丽的建筑丰碑的时候，一个有着东北倔强性格的企业家老黄，开始在哈尔滨郊区的圆梦之旅---建一座集历史、文化、建筑、艺术于一体的俄罗斯风情园。

 

伏尔加庄园  Volga Manor. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi]

 Mr Huang’s dream is to bring the Nicolas Cathedral to life in his Volga Manor. He said “I want to let the old citizens in Harbin see the old church and hear the bell again”. He invited Dr Kelagin, a famous architectural expert and president of the Association on the Protection of Historic Architecture. They found the original drawing of the church from a reference room in Russia and revived the church together.

 

    老黄最大的愿望就是他建的 “伏尔加庄园”中复活圣·尼古拉教堂这座精美的建筑，“让老哈尔滨人再见到这座老教堂，再听听教堂的钟声”。他请来了俄罗斯著名的建筑学专家、俄罗斯历史文物建筑保护协会主席柯拉金博士，一起从俄罗斯的资料室里找出了一百多年前尼古拉教堂的原图纸，在异想天开中复原了这座建筑。

 

复建的尼古拉教堂    Nicolas Cathedral. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi]

 

Walking around Volga Manor, which has more than 30 Russian buildings, you will feel like you’re traveling in the past. Minianuer Restaurant, which was burned in a fire, was reconstructed in the center of the manor. It looks like a big ship returned home, anchored alongside the bank. Standing there, you can enjoy the scenery of the whole manor. And you will never feel bored. You can even enjoy the same view from sunrise to sunset.

Those delicate architecture styles that only exist in the history of Russia are brought to life at Volga Manor. The service center, with its exquisite decoration, emits the scent of the woods. What’s more, the Slim Birches Restaurant in the Statue Garden has an eclectic style with a unique design. 

  

    走在有着30多幢俄式风情建筑的伏尔加庄园，你会恍如徜徉在百年的时空中。被大火毁之一炬的米尼阿久尔餐厅以旧日相仿的容颜端坐在庄园的中心，它似一艘远航归来的巨轮酣睡在岸边，站在它的“甲舨”上欣赏整个庄园，从日出到日落都不会让人疲倦。

     那些只停留在俄罗斯建筑史上的精美建筑也在伏尔加庄园得以再现。散发着原木味道的 “客服中心”，每一寸圆木都被精湛的纹理装饰；雕塑园中那19世纪俄罗斯折衷主义风格的小白桦餐厅，四个面都是正面的独有设计，是伏尔加庄园让这绝版建筑呈现在世人面前。

伏尔加秋色   Autumn view at Volga Manor. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi]

 Pavlov Castle and Burgerdeli Castle are representative of classicism, featuring simple luxury. What’s more, Vantagia Club, Volga Hotel, Jinhuanxi Hotel, Forest Village Villa as well as the Nightingale Cafe all show the fantastic and extraordinary taste.

古典主义的建筑典范巴甫洛夫城堡和博格得利酒堡，彰显着古朴的尊贵和奢华；集俄罗斯建筑风格于一身的凡塔吉娅俱乐部、伏尔加宾馆、金环西餐厅、森林乡村别墅和小夜莺咖啡厅，尽显着大气、时尚和超凡脱俗的品位。

 

伏尔加庄园小夜莺咖啡厅  Nightingale Cafe in Volga Manor. [Photo / Bing Chengxinzi]

 

More than 180 Russian nationals born in China came back to Harbin.Today, although they live in different places, yet they still miss their second hometown - Harbin. When they came to Volga Manor and saw the Russian architecture, they burst into tears. They kept saying that it’s hard to find such a place so filled with Russian architecture and art even in Russia.

 

Ding-ding-dong, when the bell at St.Nicolas Church rings, people in Harbin are deeply touched, because the bell’s ringing has become an echo of history. People can enjoy the happiness and calmness as well as the beauty in the echo.

 

    来自世界各地的180余名俄侨到了哈尔滨，这些重访故土的俄侨大多于上世纪二三十年代在哈出生并生活工作了很长时间，如今，他们虽然各奔四方，但仍思念着第二故乡——哈尔滨。当他们来到伏尔加庄园，看到复建的这些俄罗斯风格的老建筑，激动得热泪盈眶，不断的感叹就是在俄罗斯也很难到这样一个集中展示俄罗斯建筑艺术的地方。

 

     当——当——当，当圣·尼古拉教堂的钟声在伏尔加庄园上空敲响时，虽然在哈尔滨市中心已经无法听得到它回荡，但在哈尔滨人的心里，它已经成了哈尔滨历史的回响，荡击在人们的心头，让人在反思中感受着一份珍贵与幸福，享受着这片美丽和安详。

 

 

英文转自于中国日报网站：http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/opinion/2014-07/23/content_17906723.htm

中国日报英文版：http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/

 

 

这是四月份国际日报上发的一篇有关我的报道,一并留存.http://www.chinesetoday.com/big/article/868464