经典复杂手表的新诠释 Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase

标签:
montblanc万宝龙日内瓦sihh新品文化 |
经典复杂手表的新诠释——万宝龙明星系列双月相显示手表
Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase
南北半球月相显示
这款万宝龙明星系列,搭载时针式日历显示的高品质自动机芯,并可同时显示南、北半球双月相。这一罕见的月相显示功能由特制模块驱动,万宝龙将其首次应用于这款明星系列手表之中,并因此为手表命名为双月相显示手表。
月相显示最浪漫的复杂功能
我们买手表,要的是经典、优雅和一点点的复杂(尤其是男人)。然而太过复杂的表往往令人望而却步,要么是天价、要么是弱不禁风,即使是不那么昂贵且比较实用的码表,也常常因为厚重的身段而丧失优雅。万宝龙的明星系列在设计上和功能配置上做到了比较好的权衡,让优雅、复杂和实用性完美组合。其关键的技术看点就是双月相。
我们身处北半球或南半球时,所观察到的月相并不相同。当然,不论观察者位于何地,月相的变化都遵循相同的阶段和过程:满月与盈月的转换不断进行,观察者在南半球观察到的盈月则与在北半球所观察的景象呈现镜像。比如,在北半球,观察者会发现盈月在夜间呈镰刀形向右弯曲,而在南半球时观察则是向左弯曲。通常具有月相显示的钟表都以北半球观察角度表现月相盈亏变化,因为这一功能由位于北半球的钟表技师发明,并且绝大多数人都居住于赤道以北。
在同一圆周内同时显示北半球和南半球看到的月相
副表盘边缘标注有月龄刻度,表盘上半部分通过造型独特的视窗显示出北半球角度的月相变化,一轮金月在深蓝色背景之上缓慢移动。由于南北观察到的月相呈镜像,所以传统月相显示部分的对面,即月龄指针所指的位置便是南半球月相。
精致工艺的表盘
特殊抛光的精钢表壳
QUALiCOMM就是品质传播的意思,这是双语公众号,我编辑的钟表、珠宝、生活方式的内容从这里分享。这个微信号是com4133,
The moon standing on its head
Montblanc Star timepieces are classically elegant wristwatches. They rely on refined round cases, impeccable quality and traditional decorative techniques that make each timepiece of the Star Collection a timelessly beautiful watch. All of these characteristics are expressed in the new Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase, where they are staged by a high-quality automatic movement a pointer date, and a special interpretation of a moon-phase display that shows the changing faces of our Earth’s satellite both as they appear to observers in the Northern Hemisphere and as they look from the perspective of the Southern Hemisphere. This extremely rare indicator relies on an additional module on the complication, that Montblanc solely uses in this configuration for this display and which gave this watch its name: the Twin Moonphase.
Moonstruck
A moon-phase display, which has traditionally numbered among the most popular horological complications, always adds a very poetic aspect to a wristwatch. For countless millennia, people in every culture have felt emotionally connected to the night’s brightest celestial body.
Most people, however, are unaware that the moon’s phases appear differently depending upon whether they’re observed from the Northern or the Southern Hemisphere. Of course, the lunar phases follow one another in the same sequence regardless of an observer’s location: full moon is full moon and waxing moon is waxing moon, but the geometries of the waxing and waning moon as seen from the Southern Hemisphere are mirror images of their counterparts as viewed from the North. The waxing moon’s crescent always appears to curve toward the right when seen by an observer in the Northern Hemisphere, but curves toward the left when viewed from the South. An analogous situation prevails for the waning moon’s crescent, which curves toward the left for observers in the Northern Hemisphere and toward the right for viewers below the Equator. Most timepieces with moon-phase displays depict the lunar phases as they appear to observers in the North because clocks, watches and the moon-phase display were invented in the Northern Hemisphere and because the majority of people live north of the Equator.
The Moon from the North and the South
The situation is different on the face of the Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase, which also does justice to the perspective of people who dwell in the Southern Hemisphere. A classical moon-phase display with its characteristically shaped window (to emulate the geometry of the waxing or waning moon as it appears to viewers in the Northern Hemisphere) is combined here with a pointer for the moon’s age in days. This slim hand is positioned diametrically opposite the conventional moon-phase display in the lower half of the lunar subdial, where it points to symbols that show the appearance which the moon’s phases present to viewers in the Southern Hemisphere.
All this takes place at “6 o’clock” on a classical beautiful subdial which has been thoughtfully conceived down to its very last detail. The moon’s age is shown in days along the periphery of the subdial, the upper portion is reserved for a familiar moon-phase display with a characteristically shaped window in which golden-coloured Luna glides above a dark blue background and gradually changes her appearance to keep pace with the phases of the moon as seen by observers in the Northern Hemisphere. The surface below it is tastefully adorned with a pattern shaped like Montblanc’s emblem and wreathed by moon-phase symbols as they appear in the sky above the Southern Hemisphere.
A High-Class Dial
The dial is adorned with a fine guilloche décor – a classical element in the design vocabulary of haute horlogerie that is used on the dials of the Montblanc Star watches and concentrically develops the contours of the Montblanc emblem on the moon-phase subdial of the Twin Moonphase. This continues to the clearly structured scale for the minutes and seconds along the outermost periphery of the dial. The scale has an aperture between “one o’clock” and “two o’clock” for the asymmetrically arranged pointer date, as well as a cartouche at “10 o’clock” with the MONTBLANC script logo and the word “automatic”, which alludes to the self-winding mechanical movement. The unconventional arrangement of the date display, the red accents in the minute and calendar scales, and the crescent-shaped tip of the date pointer give this wristwatch a very distinctive look. Black Arabic numerals, which are a typical feature of the Montblanc Star Collection, clearly contrast with the silvery grey background. This setting strongly contrasts with blued steel hands to assure excellent legibility: leaf-shaped hour- and minute-hand, a baton-shaped second-hand with the revised Montblanc emblem as a counterweight, a slim and straight pointer for the moon’s phases and age, and a very slender date-hand with a bright red crescent at its tip.
Cases with the Sheen of Stainless
Steel
This classical face is placed in a special polished stainless steel case, which has a contemporary proportions with a diameter of 42 mm and an overall height of 12.7 mm. A domed and antireflective sapphire crystal protects the dial. A pane of sapphire crystal is inserted into the screwed back to provide a clear view of high-quality mechanical Calibre MB 4810/913. This self-winding movement is equipped with a special module, solely used by Montblanc in this configuration, to indicate the twin moon phase. The movement with asymmetrical pointer date has all the fine attributes of the art of Swiss watchmaking. It ticks at a pace of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz) and, if the watch is left unworn for a longer interval, the calibre can be manually wound by turning the fluted, readily graspable, stainless steel crown with inset Montblanc emblem. The date and moon-phase displays can be adjusted in single-day increments via two buttons inset into the flank of the case. This timepiece is worn in the classical manner on a strap, which is crafted from alligator leather with large reptilian scales. The wristband is secured by an exclusive triply folding stainless steel clasp which enables the owner to quickly and easily slip the watch on and off. The Montblanc Star Twin Moonphase will be available in Montblanc boutiques and at selected watch and jewellery stores starting in the autumn of 2014.