加载中…048 1028 爱丁堡的“亚瑟王座”
(2009-07-10 02:30:31)
标签：
苏格兰爱丁堡亚瑟王座山全景英式早餐爱丁堡城堡旅游 |
分类： 苏格兰行记—格拉斯哥/爱丁堡 |
早上4点多，睡在对面单人床的哥们儿起床收拾东西，接着哗啦哗啦淋浴一番，然后背起大包走人了。虽然他一直轻手轻脚，但被水声弄醒后想再继续睡也并非易事。继续迷糊到6点多，俺也开始按计划行动。
爱丁堡城里有几个很适于眺望风景的小山头，一个是爱丁堡城堡所在的Castle Rock，一个是拥有几个著名纪念建筑的卡尔顿山（Calton Hill），还有一个，就是俺要去爬的亚瑟王座山（Arthur's Seat）。
爱丁堡保存了很多古老的建筑，还于19世纪为全人类贡献了大批学术精英，因此又被称为“北方的雅典”，别的不说，市内坐落着几座小山丘一点确实与雅典很相似。虽是名城，又是苏格兰首府，但用中国人的眼光看，爱丁堡城并不大，主要景点几乎都可以轻松地步行到达。
旅馆的早餐8：00才开始供应，紧张的一天绝不能被它耽搁。又要充分利用时间又要占便宜，于是俺决定早饭前去爬山，以便回来能更好地往死里吃……
1. 6：39
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D001.jpg1028
2.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D002.jpg1028
不到7点出门，天已大亮，街上仍一片寂静。基本不必找路，沿着大路往东偏南方向走就是了，大约20分钟后，251米高的山头已出现在面前。
3. 街上非常清静
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D003.jpg1028
4.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D004.jpg1028
5.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D005.jpg1028
6.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D006.jpg1028
7.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D007.jpg1028
8. 这个带顶棚的建筑不是体育馆
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D008.jpg1028
9.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D009.jpg1028
10. 从这里拐弯
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D010.jpg1028
缓坡上早有人踩出了登山小路，沿着它便可直抵山顶。太阳正在山的另一侧慢慢爬着，此时的山坡上相当凉快，越往上风越大也越感刺骨。不过，以眺望爱丁堡城作为奖赏，这样的晨练还是很诱人的。
11. 上面就是亚瑟王的王座了
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D011.jpg1028
12. 这个城市很鼓励骑车
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D012.jpg1028
13. 上山途中
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D013.jpg1028
14.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D014.jpg1028
15.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D015.jpg1028
半山腰有很多黑色的大鸟，它们不时迎着风冲下陡崖，在天上盘旋片刻之后再回到崖边继续看风景。被吵醒后头脑一直不大清醒，刚拍完一只大鸟它便展翅俯冲离去，那一瞬间多么渴望随它而去……
山顶的风光果然是不错的，爱丁堡的新城、老城尽收眼底，Castle Rock和卡尔顿山遥遥相对，连福斯铁桥都在远山背后露出了一角。此时阳光已撕开云层，洒在福斯湾和岸边的建筑上，并向着城内迅速蔓延。此时的俺，正在陷入饥寒交迫之中。有漫山随风起舞的蒿草相送，俺迅速撤回了山下，原路返回。
16.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D016.jpg1028
17.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D017.jpg1028
18. 正面就是卡尔顿山
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D018.jpg1028
19. 此时的山上除了俺，还有远处那对中年夫妇
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D019.jpg1028
20.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D020.jpg1028
21. 脚下的草
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D022.jpg1028
22.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D023.jpg1028
23. 带顶棚建筑的右边是新的苏格兰议会大厦所在地
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D024.jpg1028
24.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D025.jpg1028
25.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D026.jpg1028
26. 正面是火车站的顶棚，远处的山后面隐隐可以看到福斯铁路桥
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D027.jpg1028
27. 远处小山上的便是爱丁堡城堡，它右边那个高耸的哥特建筑原先是一座教堂，现在是Edinburgh International Festival的筹备总部，俗称The Hub。每年8月，爱丁堡会举行为期三周的艺术节，届时有来自世界各地的各种音乐会、戏剧、歌舞演出，The Hub的一楼大厅是咖啡馆和Festival各种演出的售票处
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D028.jpg1028
28.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D030.jpg1028
29. 不知是不是住宅楼
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D031.jpg1028
30.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D032.jpg1028
31.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D033.jpg1028
32. 太阳出来了
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D034.jpg1028
33.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D035.jpg1028
34. 上山的路
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D036.jpg1028
35.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D038.jpg1028
36.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D040.jpg1028
37.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D041.jpg1028
38. 卡尔顿山上的“国家纪念碑”（National Monument），用来纪念那些在对拿破仑军队战争中奋勇厮杀的苏格兰士兵。它动工于1822年，很明显是仿照帕台农神庙的样式而建的，但因为资金短缺，这项工程很快陷入了困境，本来格拉斯哥市政当局愿意提供赞助，但被骄傲的爱丁堡政府官员拒绝了，结果这个半拉子工程得到了两个绰号“爱丁堡之耻”（Edinburgh's Disgrace）、“爱丁堡办的蠢事”（Edinburgh's Folly）。不过，已经建起的这部分建筑反倒还真像是对帕台农神庙遗迹的致敬。
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D042.jpg1028
39. 近处维多利亚式建筑与远处呆傻的高楼大厦
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D043.jpg1028
40. 一只黑鸟在注视着城市
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D044.jpg1028
41. 国家纪念碑左边的高塔是纳尔逊纪念碑（Nelson's Monument）。纳尔逊是世界著名海军将领，在1805年指挥的特拉法加海战中击败了法西联合舰队，从而确立了英国的海上霸权并挫败了拿破仑占领英国本土的企图。伦敦特拉法加广场上高高矗立着他的塑像。
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D045.jpg1028
42.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D046.jpg1028
43.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D047.jpg1028
44.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D048.jpg1028
45.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D049.jpg1028
46.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D050.jpg1028
47.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D029.jpg1028
48.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D051.jpg1028
49.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D052.jpg1028
50.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D053.jpg1028
51.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D054.jpg1028
52.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D055.jpg1028
53.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D056.jpg1028
54.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D057.jpg1028
55. 右上角可以看到福斯铁路桥
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D058.jpg1028
56.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D059.jpg1028
57.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D060.jpg1028
58. 卡尔顿山上有一座天文台，东山坡上还安葬着爱丁堡人大卫·休谟
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D061.jpg1028
59.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D062.jpg1028
60. 山上是很冷的，爱丁堡每年平均最高温度只有19度，但最低也只低到0.7度
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D063.jpg1028
61. 俺就是从这条路来的，带顶棚建筑叫做“Our Dynamic Earth”，是一个地球与环境科学博物馆
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D064.jpg1028
62.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D065.jpg1028
63.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D066.jpg1028
64. 蒿草还带着露珠
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D067.jpg1028
65.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D068.jpg1028
66.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D069.jpg1028
67.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D070.jpg1028
68.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D071.jpg1028
69. 下山
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D072.jpg1028
70.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D073.jpg1028
71.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D074.jpg1028
72.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D075.jpg1028
73.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D076.jpg1028
74.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D077.jpg1028
75.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D078.jpg1028
76.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D079.jpg1028
77.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D080.jpg1028
78.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D082.jpg1028
79. 在凡尔纳的《苏格兰与英格兰游记》中，他展示了法国人看到卡尔顿山上纪念建筑的心情：“山顶矗立着相当高大的纳尔逊纪念塔，他定是一个给佛寺万众来来往往的船只以警示的信号灯，这是座外形拙劣的塔，那难看的轮廓让人看着碍眼。……也应对承认，如果说所有这些纪念性建筑物都施工差劲，太过粗糙，孤立起来看全无美感和特色的话，那么它们作为一个整体又现出光彩，在风景中还很相衬。而且这种为让人回想某种东西的意图，比起法国那么多纪念性建筑物那样奢求独树一帜要好得多。”
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D083.jpg1028
80.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D084.jpg1028
81. 2006年下半年山上曾几次起火，如今还有很大一部分没长出植被
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D085.jpg1028
82.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D086.jpg1028
83.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D087.jpg1028
84.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D088.jpg1028
85.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D089.jpg1028
86. 欧洲人都非常喜欢跑步，一天中几乎每个时间都可以看到跑步的人，确实，这样的条件不跑跑还真是浪费了
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D090.jpg1028
87.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D091.jpg1028
88.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D092.jpg1028
89.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D093.jpg1028
90.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D094.jpg1028
91. 最后，看看在山上看到的爱丁堡城全景吧
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww214/dafosi1232/D000small.jpg1028
92. 很多的mini和Smart
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D095.jpg1028
93.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D096.jpg1028
94.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D097.jpg1028
95. 从这里爬上去还是很近的
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D098.jpg1028
96.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D099.jpg1028
97. Our Dynamic Earth外面的雕塑
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D100.jpg1028
98. 出租车
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D101.jpg1028
有八点钟才开早饭的旅馆，这城市不大可能有早起的习惯。8：40的街头车子总算多了起来，距离旅馆还差一个路口，俺发现街边站着一位全身穿着嫩绿户外工作服、手持长柄停车标志的老大爷，此时路上的车辆井然有序，而他明显也不是交警。正在猜测他的职能，大爷忽然迅速启动，举着牌子跑到了人行道中间伸直手臂站好，一个背书包的孩子头都不抬地穿过马路之后，他又笑眯眯地回到了路边。原来这是专门为过马路学童服务的一个岗位，老人正适合在此发挥余热。看过《猜火车》么？片中男主角马克在一个早上陪小女友黛安去上学的时候，镜头里也有这样一个全身嫩绿服装的人在爱丁堡的人行道上维持秩序。
到了旅馆所在的路口再回头看，又有一队小学生在过马路，此时是红灯，但往来车辆正在大爷的指挥下停在人行道外耐心等待。远远举起相机再拍一张，从观景窗里看到大爷也发现了俺，于是对他挥手致意，大爷也笑眯眯地对俺挥手。
99.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D102.jpg1028
100.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D103.jpg1028
101.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D104.jpg1028
102.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D105.jpg1028
103. 很多全副武装骑自行车的人
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D106.jpg1028
104.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D107.jpg1028
105.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D108.jpg1028
106.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D109.jpg1028
107. 古旧的修表店
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D110.jpg1028
108.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D111.jpg1028
109.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D112.jpg1028
110.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D113.jpg1028
111. 停车管理人员
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D114.jpg1028
112.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D115.jpg1028
113.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D116.jpg1028
114.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D117.jpg1028
115.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D118.jpg1028
116. 回到旅馆门前，旁边就是一家租自行车的店
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D119.jpg1028
117. 旅馆内的收费充电处，除了手机，还可以给PSP、IPod之类的充电，交了费可以把机器锁在小柜子充电，办完事再回来取
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D120.jpg1028
118.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D121.jpg1028
回到旅馆已经8：50，餐厅里很热闹，昨晚那帮小学生正在排队取早餐。这次又是英式早餐，香肠之类的需要由服务员来分配，菜量又供不上，所以队伍前进缓慢，过了将近20分钟才就座开吃。
119. 餐厅
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D122.jpg1028
120. 排队
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D123.jpg1028
121.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D124.jpg1028
122.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D125.jpg1028
123. 吧台
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D126.jpg1028
124.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D127.jpg1028
125. 餐厅在进货
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D128.jpg1028
126.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D129.jpg1028
127. 香肠、煮番茄、煮豆子、蛋羹等需要服务员给盛
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D130.jpg1028
128. 面包、咖啡、甜瓜自取，碗内是酸奶
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D131.jpg1028
129. 旅馆前台
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D132.jpg1028
130.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D133.jpg1028
131. 可以在前台买锁头，三环牌啊
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D134.jpg1028
这家青年旅社要求每天上午10：00前退房，吃罢早餐回到房间，房内已空无一人。收拾好行李来到前台，时间正好。这一路上住过的所有旅馆退房后都可以免费存包，如格拉斯哥Quality旅馆那么严谨的存包手续绝无仅有，不过这家青年旅社的服务也算不错，它专门开辟了一个房间用来寄存行李，存包人进出这个房间需要用前台给的磁卡开门，虽说开了门拿几个包全凭自觉，但毕竟比大家随便拿安全了许多。
存好包出了门已过10：00，18：05的飞机返回伦敦，在北方雅典转悠的时间已经相当紧张了。
131. 回房间整理行李
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D135.jpg1028
132. 俺的是靠门的下铺
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D136.jpg1028
133.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D137.jpg1028
134.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D138.jpg1028
135. 淋浴间和卫生间
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D139.jpg1028
136.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D140.jpg1028
137.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D141.jpg1028
138.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D142.jpg1028
139.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D143.jpg1028
140.
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D144.jpg1028
141. 存包的房间
http://i694.photobucket.com/albums/vv301/dafosi1233/D145.jpg1028
喜欢
0
赠金笔