在墨西哥城的几天中，有一天是安排给日月神庙的。这是我在墨西哥参观的第一座神庙，也拉开了此后在尤卡坦半岛参观一系列各种风格神庙的序幕。从玛雅人到印加人，乃至全世界的种族，都曾崇敬太阳和月亮。在墨西哥城还叫特诺奇蒂特兰Tenochtitlan的时候，日月神庙就已经成为阿兹特克Aztec帝国首都最重要的神庙祭祀区。但日月神庙的历史比Aztec帝国要久远得多。在它成为Aztec帝国首都祭祀中心前的一千年，这里曾经出现的城市就已经达到了它荣耀的顶峰并随后衰落于历史的尘埃中。

During several days in Mexico city, one day was for Teotihuacan, temple of the sun and the luna. This is the first temple I ever visited in Mexico, and also the first act of my future visits on temples in various styles in the Yucatan peninsula. From Maya to Inca, to almost all races in the world, sun and moon were adored as gods. Teotihuacan was the most important worship place in the capital of Aztec empire when the Mexico city was called Tenochtitlan. But the history of Teotihuacan is much longer than that of Aztec empire. One thousand years before it became the worship center of Aztec empire, a city here reached the peak of its glory and then collapsed into the dust of history.

    从墨西哥城去日月神庙非常方便。在汽车北站大约每半小时有一班车直接去这里，车子停在景区的中门。祭祀区由一系列建筑组成，包括太阳神庙、月亮神庙、羽蛇神庙temple of Quetzalcoatl、日月神庙博物馆以及分布于中轴线大道亡者之路calle de los muertos两侧的系列金字塔和建筑残基。所有的金字塔只剩下石头垒砌的核心。但即使这样，仍然需要花费一定体力才能爬上陡峭的金字塔。

Now it is very convenient from Mexico city to Teotihuacan. Every half hour there is a bus from the north station in Mexico city to the temple, the bus will stop at the door No.2. This worship area is composed by series architectures, including the temple of the sun, the temple of the moon, the temple of the feathered serpent (temple of Quetzalcoatl), museum and the ruins of pyramids and residues of buildings along the street of the dead (calle de los muertos). It needs to take some time and strength to climb the cliffy pyramids, even if all of them are only left the core built with layers of rocks.

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         太阳神庙                 the temple of the sun

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                  太阳神庙上的台阶  steps on the temple of the sun

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从月亮神庙看太阳神庙         the temple of the sun (scene from the temple of the moon )

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                  月亮神庙和亡者之路  the temple of the moon and the street of the dead

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从太阳神庙看月亮神庙  the temple of the moon (scene from the temple of the sun)

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                              建筑残基 the residues of buildings

    而在墨西哥城中的国家人类学博物馆museo de antropologia，可以更清晰地感受到日月神庙往日的辉煌。一座保存完好的金字塔，被整体移到博物馆中。Aztec人不但在墙面绘上壁画，还要用雕刻装饰金字塔的四周。而金字塔的最底部，一定会发现牺牲的骸骨，这些人鲜明的特征表明他们当年是被杀死献祭的：双手被反绑，颈上戴着由人下颌骨串成的项链。……所有的一切在1519年走到了尽头，日月神庙的宏伟甚至让西班牙人震惊。这里不再有祭祀，特诺奇蒂特兰，这座曾经的世界上最大的城市之一，也渐渐掩埋于另一座大城市的下方，那就是今天的墨西哥城。

It is more clearly to feel Teotihuacan’s brilliant past in the museo de antropologia, Mexico city. A well preserved pyramid was moved to the museum, which the Aztecs decorated with wall paintings and stone carvings. The skeleton of the sacrifice would be certainly found beneath the pyramids. The obvious characteristics on the skeleton mean that all of them were killed for the worship: their hands were bound on the back and a necklace made with human mandibles on their neck. ……All stories reached an end on the year 1519, the temple even astonished the spanish conquerors. No more worship in Teotihuacan, and Tenochtitlan, one of the biggest city even existed on this planet, little by little, were buried under another big city, today it is called Mexico city.

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国家人类学博物馆中保存的金字塔 the pyramid in the museo de antropologia, Mexico city

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                       一个在这里出土的石刻  a stone carving found in Teotihuacan

    我的参观顺序是太阳神庙（因为它正对着中门）、博物馆、诸多建筑残基和小金字塔和月亮神庙。羽蛇神庙正在修复中，我没有过去。另外，顺便在这里买了顶墨西哥草帽。让我有时候看起来象农妇有时候象牛仔。在回程的大巴上，在一个特别的检查点，所有的男乘客都下车接受检查，检查人员同时上车检查了一遍，连椅子套都没放过。这提醒我墨西哥的毒品犯罪。

My itinerary for the visit is the temple of the sun, museum, ruins of building and smaller pyramids and finally the temple of the moon. The temple of the feathered serpent was in reconstruction, so I didn’t go there. And I bought a straw hat at the main gate, which makes sometimes look like a peasant woman, sometimes like a cowgirl. On the way back to Mexico city, at a check point, all male passengers had to get off for a check, and the inspectors checked each part of the bus, even the chair cover, which reminded me the drug crimes in Mexico.

    晚饭仍然去超市买原料自己做。Yolanda很快就和旅馆里来自瑞士的小男生James混熟了，让我给他们拍合影。我建议Yolanda付James模特费。

We cooked our supper at the hostel with the materials bought in supermarket. Yolanda got acquainted with James, a boy from Swiss,  so soon. She asked me to take group portrait photos. I said, you should pay for your model.