对于葡萄酒爱好者而言，没有什么比新年份酒更值得期待的事情了。当位居北半球的欧洲和北美葡萄树正在发芽之际，南半球新年份的葡萄汁早已经进入了发酵缸，开始了发酵之旅。

    2009年，澳大利亚和南非部分地区遭遇了山火，葡萄酒商过得并不轻松。但除了部分地区葡萄被山火熏过以外，大部分地区的情况还是相当不错的。

    最终落入杯中品尝的佳酿的结果优劣与否与葡萄生长季节的情况休戚相关，大部分地区葡萄成熟情况稳定而良好。在南美洲，气候干爽、温暖。澳大利亚、新西兰，还有南非开普敦的气候凉爽一些，情况也还是很不错。大部分地区的葡萄酒生产商跟我们分享了今年的收成情况。以下是来自澳大利亚、新西兰、南非和南美的2009年的收成快报。

 

阿根廷：门多萨气候干热，玛碧表现尚可

热浪令白葡萄酒表现欠佳，但红葡萄酒表现尚可

文/詹姆斯 莫尔沃思

    受拉尼娜气候现象（与厄尔尼诺引起的气候现象正相反，虽然威力不及厄尔尼诺，但也会给人类造成相当伤害。）的影响，2009年葡萄生长过后，大多数阿根廷葡萄酒商抱持谨慎乐观的态度。这意味着一个干燥而温暖的季节里，热浪导致白葡萄问题频出，所幸的是红葡萄的表现还不错。

    我们都知道，玛碧比卡本纳苏维翁的抗热性好，今年是我们第一次看到卡本纳苏维翁成熟得比玛碧早。这样的酷热侵袭，令白葡萄的采摘比往常要早许多，因此白葡萄酒未能展现其应有的优雅与清新。

    门多萨大多数葡萄农反映今年的产量比以往正常情况都要低。2008年干燥的气候条件之后，紧接着到年末是严重的霜冻，使得葡萄发芽受到了很大的影响。这依旧是一个很好的年份，但玛碧则没有太大的表现了，而卡本纳苏维翁则更一般。至于门多萨北部的萨尔塔产区，气候则没那么多变。最大的问题则是今年雨季延迟，以致葡萄成熟延缓，但却没有冰雹。总体产量还属正常，品质也相当不错。

 

澳大利亚：葡萄酒商经历跌宕起伏

大多数产区产量下跌，但凉爽而干燥的气候令红葡萄酒更优雅

文/奥古斯塔斯 维德

    尽管1月底破了这个产区有史以来的高温记录，南澳的葡萄酒商对2009年的收成还是相当雀跃。幸运的是，2月温度就降了下来，温和的气候一直延至收成结束。生产商纷纷报喜：晚熟的品种如西拉、卡本纳苏维翁等品质非常高。麦罗伦谷的一些酿酒师相信，2009将会是有史以来最出色的一个年份。

    然而并不是每个人都那么欢欣。产量比预计还要低20%。在巴罗莎谷，由于受到热浪的影响，白葡萄的产量下降了许多。但今年的红葡萄酒酸度则很好，酒精度低一些，酒体十分平衡，结构非常好。

    在新南威尔士州的猎人谷和南澳的嘉拉谷，酒体非常平衡是红白葡萄酒今年的主调。这两个产区冬天雨水相当及时，葡萄酒商非常满意他们所看到的结果。至于古纳华拉，西拉和卡本纳苏维翁的表现也很不错。但维多利亚的情况就不一样了，这里热浪侵袭，更引起了严重的山火，好几个葡萄园和酒园被烧，产量降低了不少。尽管红葡萄品种可能存在许多变数，酿酒师对该区莎当妮的品质还是比较满意的。至于玛格利河产区，葡萄生长缓慢。由于春天气候比较凉，产量微微下降，但莎当妮葡萄酒却展现出了可人的集中度和相当讨喜的自然酸度。葡萄酒商对红葡萄酒的出品也相当满意，尤其是晚熟的卡本纳苏维翁。

 

智利：干燥的一年

温暖而干燥的一年，令葡萄酒圆熟，产量稍高

文/詹姆斯 莫尔沃思

    与一个漫长且比往常更加干燥的葡萄生长季节短兵相接之后，智利的葡萄酒商首份报告即显示：2009年份的葡萄酒圆熟，偏早熟。

    今年的气候干燥，可以说是历史上最干燥的几个年份之一，一些地区从10月到收成季节甚至没有下过一滴雨。温暖一点的内陆产区，像美宝谷、兰佩谷和阿冈卡加谷等，葡萄生长季节里勤于管理的葡萄园的出品品质似乎不错。

    在哥查加谷，尽管干旱，采摘时期还是如常进行，大部分葡萄状况还比较良好。日照有些过足，影响了卡本纳苏维翁的酒色和风味，但西拉和加文拿却相当好。在沿海一些比较凉爽的地区，莎当妮和白苏维翁的出品近年来相当受瞩目，西拉和黑比诺也表现很好，葡萄农坦言：温暖、干燥的气候条件被寒凉的夜晚中和了，气候情况还不错。葡萄农还表示，2009年的产量比正常稍高，大约比2008或2007年高出10%~20%。

 

新西兰：采摘季节天气很好

葡萄生长期顺利，预示着红白葡萄酒将表现良好

文/奥古斯塔斯 维德

    喜忧参半的2008年份过后，新西兰2009年又回到了正轨，酿酒师表示：一个相当好的年份在即。北岛和南岛都经历了一个相当温暖而干燥的夏天，进入2月，气温凉爽一些，雨量尚可。葡萄成熟期气候状况比较不错，葡萄成色很好，结构平衡，香气良好。酿酒师似乎对今年的收成相当乐观，初步判断，白苏维翁和黑比诺的出品将会很棒。

    尽管新西兰葡萄园的种植总面积达到了历史顶峰，2009年的总体产量相对与去年而言还是有些许回落，主要是为了控制产量以保证葡萄酒的品质。

    在万宝龙产区，葡萄酒商对白苏维翁今年的表现很满意。白苏维翁葡萄酒展现出更加明显的热带果香，更成熟，更浓郁。

    在许多葡萄酒爱好者眼中，黑比诺可谓是新西兰最具代表性的红葡萄品种，酒商对这一品种2009年份的表现也十分满意。威帕拉地区今年的气候温和，黑比诺的表现非常卓越，颜色深浓，酒体浓郁而集中。而在新西兰北岛，黑比诺和白苏维翁的著名产区玛天宝龙，酒商均对2009年份的表现非常意外。黑比诺展现出清澈的本色，香气愉悦，单宁成熟，2009也许是这二十年来最好的一个年份。

    而在霍克斯湾，酒商对以分别以波尔多主流的葡萄品种和西拉酿制的红葡萄酒的出品也相当满意。他们都说2009年是红葡萄酒在这22年来最好的一年。但这个产区的白葡萄酒今年的表现就没那么好了。

 

南非：开普敦势头很好的一年

南非的葡萄酒产区经历了一个凉爽而干燥的季节，总体出品品质很好

文/詹姆斯 莫尔沃思

    一般收成结束后大家都比较兴奋，但南非开普敦今年的酿酒师今年的确是特别心醉神迷。2009年葡萄生长季节雨水较少，正合时宜，2月初开普敦仲夏典型的热浪过后，夏季比往常要凉爽一些。斯泰伦博斯和帕尔种植区，可以说是开普敦葡萄酒业的核心产地，这里种植的名贵品种，如法定种植的卡本纳苏维翁，表现非常出色。

    酷热的天气是最大的挑战，但通过得宜的灌溉就能轻松得以补救。葡萄成熟季节天气十分温和，一直延至收获时节，葡萄农表示，比往常晚一两周采摘，红白葡萄酒都能保有得宜的酸度和清新的口感。今年出品的白葡萄酒拥有天然的酸度和自然的果香，查德和白苏维翁非常典雅，余韵悠长；红葡萄酒则非常强劲，但却很优雅，单宁非常柔和。

    经过温暖的一季，酿酒师一致对内陆种植区2009年的表现赞誉不绝。2009年份让我们想起了美妙的97年份，（年轻的）西拉表现相当突出。在凉爽的沿海地区，莎当妮、白苏维翁和黑比诺也都非常优秀，葡萄农都非常欢欣。这个年份的葡萄出品超乎想像。大多数葡萄农都说今年的产量比平常高，部分地区的产量比受高温影响的年份高出40%。

 

2009 Southern Hemisphere Harvest

The new vintage below the equator holds plenty of promise

For wine lovers, there's nothing like the first vino of the year. While vines are just budding in Europe and North America, on the southern side of the planet, the juice from this year's crop is already fermenting in the tanks.

2009 wasn't always easy for Southern Hemisphere producers—parts of both Australia and South Africa grappled with deadly wildfires. But except for a few smoke-tainted grapes, most of the results look fairly promising.

The growing season has much to do with what a wine ultimately tastes like in the glass, and most regions enjoyed steady ripening conditions. In South America, it was a dry, warm year. Things were cooler, but also nice, Down Under and on South Africa's Cape. Producers from the major wine regions have shared with us their experience of the season.

Below are the full reports on the quality and style of wines you can expect from the 2009 vintage throughout Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and South America.

 

Harvest 2009: Malbec Survives a Dry Year in Mendoza

Heat spike hurts white wines of Argentina, but reds weather the warmth

James Molesworth
Most Argentinean vintners are cautiously optimistic following the 2009 growing season, which was marked by a La Niña weather pattern. That means a very dry and warm season, while the heat may have caused problems for the white grapes, most reds should be fine.

We learned that Malbec tolerates warm temperatures better than Cab, this was the first year we've ever seen Cab ripen ahead of Malbec, this was the first year we've ever seen Cab ripen ahead of Malbec.. The timing of the heat spike also affected white grapes. White grapes were picked earlier than normal, and the wines are not showing much elegance and freshness.

Most growers in Mendoza reported slightly lower yields than normal. The season's dry conditions followed a severe late-season frost in 2008 that hampered bud formation for this year.

It is going to be a very good year but nothing spectacular for the Malbecs, the Cabs are going to be [on the] edge.

North of Mendoza, in the Salta region, the season was less eventful. The biggest issue this year was a procrastinated rainy season. This delays grape maturity. No hail issues. Normal yields. Quality looks very good."

 

Harvest 2009: Australian Vintners Experience Highs and Lows

Yields are down in most regions, but a cool, dry season may have produced elegant reds

Augustus Weed

Vintners in South Australia are very excited about the 2009 harvest, despite a record-breaking heat wave that struck the region in late January. Fortunately, temperatures dropped in February, with mild, even weather through the end of harvest. Producers are reporting great quality in their-late ripening varieties such as Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. Some winemakers in McLaren Vale believe the 2009 vintage to be the best they have ever done.

But not everyone is as enthusiastic. Yields are down an estimated 20 percent. In Barossa, white wine grapes came in with lower yields due to the heat. This year's red wines have good acidity and lower alcohol in Barossa Valley. The wines have great balance and structure.

Good balance was a theme of the vintage for both reds and whites in New South Wales' Hunter Valley and Clare Valley. Both regions received some much-needed rain during the winter, and vintners like what they see. In Coonawarra, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon should perform well.

It was a different story in Victoria, where the heat wave sparked a series of wildfires several vineyards and wineries were burned and yields are down throughout the area. Although the reds may be variable this vintage, winemakers are happy with the quality of the region's Chardonnay.

In Margaret River, vintners experienced a milder growing season. The yields were generally down due to cool spring conditions, but the Chardonnays came in with lovely intensity and fabulous natural acidity. Vintners are also happy with the reds, especially the Cabernet Sauvignon, which ripened late.

 

Harvest 2009: Chile's Dry Season

A warm and dry year leads to ripe wines and slightly higher yields

James Molesworth

Chilean vintners grappled with a long and drier-than-usual growing season in 2009, with initial reports indicating ripe, forward-styled wines.

The season's dry conditions were some of the most severe on record, with some areas reporting zero rainfall from October through the end of harvest.

The quality of red varieties from the warmer, inland areas of Maipo, Rapel and Aconcagua valley look to be variable, with vineyard management an important factor through the growing season.

In Colchagua, despite the drought, picking times were in the normal range and most of the grapes came in healthy. Some sunburn affected color and flavors on Cabernet Sauvignon, while noting that both Syrah and Carmenère performed particularly well.

In cooler, coastal areas, where the quality of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc has surged in recent years, along with Syrah and Pinot Noir, growers reported that the warm, dry conditions were offset by markedly cooler nights.

Growers also reported slightly higher than normal yields in 2009, with 10 percent to 20 percent higher crop loads than in either 2008 or 2007.

 

Harvest 2009: New Zealand Vintners Pick in Fair Weather

A moderate growing season bodes well for the country's reds and whites

Augustus Weed

After a mixed 2008 vintage, New Zealand appears to be back on track in 2009, with winemakers reporting a successful harvest. Both the North and South Islands experienced a relatively warm, dry summer, with cooler temperatures and some rain in February. Moderate conditions during ripening produced grapes with balanced structures and flavors. Winemakers are sounding very positive about the vintage, with initial signs pointing to promising Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noirs.

Despite New Zealand's total vineyard acreage growing to its highest level ever, 2009 saw lower overall yields compared to last year because of the yield management to ensure quality.

In Marlborough, vintners are happy with how the Sauvignon Blanc is turning out. The wines may show more tropical fruit character. There is a little more ripeness, more concentration in the Sauvignon Blanc.

Vintners are also pleased with the state of the 2009 Pinot Noir, which many think is New Zealand's signature red. The moderate weather led to balanced wines in the Waipara region, the Pinot Noir is exceptional, with good concentration and good depth of color. On New Zealand's North Island, in Martinborough, a region best known for Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, vintners are equally impressed with the vintage. 2009 would be the best year of the decade, with the Pinot Noir showing real colors, bright fruit flavors and ripe tannins.

Further north in Hawkes Bay, vintners are very happy with the region's red wines, predominately Bordeaux varieties and Syrah. They are calling 2009 the best red wine vintage for the area in more than 22 years. The region's white wines didn't fare as well, however.

 

Harvest 2009: A Strong Year for the Cape

South Africa's wine regions enjoy a cool, dry season, producing quality across the board

James Molesworth

Though normally prone to excitement following a just-completed harvest, South Africa's Cape winemakers were especially ecstatic following this year's crop.

The 2009 growing season saw only light, well-timed rains and a cooler than usual summer following the Cape's typical midseason heat wave in early February.The Stellenbosch and Paarl growing districts, which form the heart of the Cape's wine industry and where blue-chip varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon rule, seem to have come through with flying colors.

The hot days were the biggest challenge, but the effect was easily remediated with judicious irrigation. With the moderate temperatures stretching into harvest time, growers reported picking one to two weeks later than usual on average, with both whites and reds maintaining their acidity and freshness.There's very good natural acids and fruit flavors on the whites. The Chard and Sauvignon Blanc show real class and longevity, the reds will be big, but elegant, with smooth tannins.

Winemakers throughout the warmer, inland growing areas echoed the accolades for 2009. The 2009 vintage reminds us of the fantastic '97, the [young-vine] Syrah was phenomenal. In cooler coastal areas, where Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir excel, growers were equally enthused.The vintage produced fabulous quality fruit.

Most growers did report higher than usual yields, some up to 40 percent more than in heat-influenced years such as 2007.

 

文/Text Wine Spectator 2009   编译/Translator   《美酒生活》 ANNIE CAI