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用植物油洁面,是个好主意吗?

(2012-12-27 12:45:21)
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分类: 小白鼠生存手册

Should you be cleansing with an oil?
Dr. Leslie Baumann

http://s3/mw690/b86c6149hd1cff2ba3982&690

Your “Dry” skin is defined by a lack of oil, which is why your skin often feels tight or rough to the touch—especially after cleansing. Sure you’re using moisturizer to supplement your skin with the essential oils it needs, but you can get a leg up on hydrating your skin by starting your skincare regimen with an oil-based cleanser.


The main benefit of oil cleansing is that the cleanser itself deposits lipids on the skin—which is a big help for “Dry” types. These lipids, or fatty acids, help skin hold onto water. As an added bonus, some oils—especially safflower oil—are rich in linoleic acid that the skin needs to make ceramides, which naturally help prevent dehydration. Other oils that are rich omega-3 fatty acids (such as flax seed) have anti-inflammatory properties, and olive oil in particular has antioxidant benefits as well.


Oil-based cleansers work differently than foaming cleansers. Oils actually surround dirt and product residue before water washes them away, leaving necessary fats intact. (Foaming cleansers, on the other hand, contain detergent-like surfactants that dissolve oil and dirt and pull lipids from the skin cells.) Cleansing oils are much better for dry skin than foaming cleansers because they protect the lipids that dry skin needs to remain hydrated. In addition, oils are able to remove stubborn makeup and sunscreen, so you also get the benefits of a makeup remover in the same bottle. And unlike other cleansers, it’s best to apply cleansing oil with a cotton ball, and then rinse three times with warm water to remove all of the residue. And best of all, you can skip the moisturizer after cleansing with oil (unless you are super dry)—just don’t forget the sunscreen!

 

 

简单说,植物油洁面,不会像泡沫洁面那样破坏皮肤的皮脂膜、带走皮肤里的分子钉。

 

各种不同的植物油还提供各种不同的额外效果:

1,提供亚油酸Omega 6脂肪酸,促进制造分子钉-----红花油(还有很多,不一一列举)

2,提供亚麻酸Omega 3脂肪酸------亚麻籽油 (深海鱼油也有Omega 3)

3,提供抗氧化(对洁面意义不大)-----包括橄榄油在内的很多植物油都有这个功能。

 

 

正好是冬天,于是如下植物油们都被我一一用来洁面了。

 

1,Argan oil 阿甘油-------比荷荷巴油稍清爽一点点,颜色清亮。

2,Jojoba oil 荷荷巴油------还算清爽,多冲冲就行。

3,Olive oil 橄榄油------哦,太可怕了!很难冲洗,绝对不适合洁面。

4,Grapeseed oil 葡萄籽油-----很清爽,相对容易冲洗。

5,Flaxseed oil 亚麻籽油------不够清爽,不容易冲洗

6,Rosehip oil 玫瑰果油------比橄榄油清爽,不算容易冲洗,需要大量用。

7,Evening Primrose Oil 月见草油-----味道吐槽无能,适合没有鼻子的人。

8,borage oil 琉璃苣油------感受同上。

9,Fish oil 鱼油-----别怀疑,我真的把口服的Carlson的鱼油胶囊破剪开洗过脸,结果令人伤感~~~

 

 

总结一下我的感受:

  • 洁面的植物油,不在于抗氧化效果,清爽易冲洗(不致痘)才是唯一标准!
  • 用植物油洁面,可以省掉一层保湿。
  • 鼻头会很干净,效果比BHA好一点点。敏感油皮可以考虑用植物油替代BHA。
  • 偏油皮可以用,因为以油融油,脸上多余的油脂也会被洗干净。(大油皮请自觉退散~~)
  • 用不惯植物油的油腻感,可以自行加乳化剂,或者用吸油纸压压。
  • 晚上用植物油洁面感觉比白天更好。
  • 敏感皮(非大油皮)用植物油不错。因为可以避免传统洁面的刺激和更多的护肤品。

 

引用Rox的话,供参考:

我个人把润肤油分为不同的滋润度(仅是我个人标准):

轻质:葡萄籽油、荷荷巴油、太阳花籽油

中度:摩洛哥坚果油(阿甘果油)、鳄梨油、月见草油、西番莲籽油

滋润:橄榄油(特级初榨)、玫瑰果油、琉璃苣油

丰润:杏仁油、榛仁油、小麦胚芽油、澳洲坚果油

 

 

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