新浪独家系列：传奇超模人物系列
第四弹：Mounia Orosemane
SINA FASHION EXCLUSIVE SERIE: FASHION LEGENDS
Part 4: MOUNIA

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摄影师：Bénédicte Bro-Cassard （北京老佛爷百货展出，结束于本月30日）

Photo by Bénédicte Bro-Cassard (Galeries Lafayette Beijing until 30/10/14)

Mounia是一位公主，是时尚之王Yves Saint Laurent的公主。Yves需要一位美貌且有个性的丽人来激发灵感，由于Yves是一个非常害羞且脆弱的人，所有在他的小圈子里只有为数不多的几位女性朋友，比如Loulou de la Falaise，Betty Catroux，Catherine Deneuve等，Mounia就是YSL大家庭中的一员。

Mounia was a Princess. A Princess to the reigning king of fashion: Yves Saint Laurent. Yves needed beauty to get inspired, beauty and personality. He was terribly shy and fragile so only a few women were part of his immediate circle and with Loulou de la Falaise, Betty Catroux or Catherine Deneuve, MOUNIA was a part of YSL family.

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Mounia的美貌卓越之极，在充满了种族歧视的高级定制世界里，当Yves Saint Laurent决定用Mounia演绎他的“Porgy and Bess”高级定制系列时，Mounia可是高定大秀中第一位黑人模特。随后，Dalma，Kirat和其他非常异域风情的模特在YSL的舞台上熠熠生辉，成为巨星，Yves Saint Laurent创造了这次伟大的革命。这场革命是关于美、优雅和等级的革命，这是YSL的模特里Mounia和其他所有人共有的品质，而且远超于此。所有YSL的模特们都拥有着极度的美貌，在舞台上像女王一样走秀，她们激发着Yves的创作灵感，Mounia曾是她们中的佼佼者。Yves的灵感女神，也是他最心爱的模特。
Mounia was extraordinarly beautiful, and in the racist world of Haute Couture, when Yves Saint Laurent decided to show his "Porgy and Bess" couture collections on beautiful Mounia, it was the first time a black model was presenting Haute Couture. Later, Dalma, Kirat and all other exotic models became stars on YSL podium, he created a revolution. One that was all about beauty, elegance and class. Something that Mounia and the other models of YSL had more than most. All of YSL models were extraordinarly beautiful, walked like queens and inspired him his best ideas.Mounia was the shiniest star of them all.Yves Muse and Favorite Model.  

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在纽约，自70年代早期，黑人模特们已经开始工作并且颇有名气了。Pat Cleveland，Iman，Bethann Ardisson，Alva Chinn因其美丽和活力颇受欢迎，而在保守的巴黎，当Yves决定使用Mounia为其走秀的时候，却让来自极端中产阶级的客户们倒吸了一口冷气。Mounia绝对是一位走秀皇后，且她基本上是专属于Yves Saint laurent的模特，当她有时间从Avenue Marceau （YSL的高定工作室）得以喘息的时候，她就会去rue du Paris Royal的Azzedine Alaia那里串串场，或者在Claude Montana厌倦金发碧眼的时候去给予些异域能量。

In New York, black models were already famous and working since the early 70s. Pat Cleveland, Iman, Bethann Ardisson, Alva Chinn were recognised for their beauty and energy but in conservative Paris, there was a notable gasp when Yves imposed on his catwalk Mounia to his ultra-bourgeoise clientele. Mounia was a catwalk queen and she walked almost exclusively for Yves Saint Laurent but was also rue du Paris Royal at Azzedine Alaia atelier when she had free time from the Avenue Marceau (YSL Couture atelier)or at Claude Montana where he was bored of his blond glamazons.

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对于我来说，在Alaia的她则像是一位到访的皇室成员。微笑、平易近人，她那自然的优雅给予服装更多的魔力，让服装看起来更加惊人。Mounia着实令人震惊。

To me at Alaia she was visiting royalty. Smiling, lovely and with a natural elegance that gave the clothes the extra magic that made them simply incredible. Mounia was amazing.

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而今种族歧视仍然存在。黑人模特在秀场上仍然寥寥无几。很多设计师厚着脸皮将所有系列穿在那些不知名的、金发白皮肤的假脸模特身上。我知道现在有一些中国模特活跃在国际秀场，但是容我诚实地说一句，对比中国这么多美丽的女孩，国际秀场上的中国面孔实在是太少了。我每天在我的博客中看到她们的倩影，当然，国际秀场上也少见来自阿拉伯或者印度的模特、或者黑色皮肤的模特们。事实上，回想起来，我几乎没法记起任何一位印度模特的名字。

Racism in fashion is still around. Black models are still too few on the catwalks.Many designers will shamelessly show their entire collections on anonymous white, blond, identical robot-models. I know that some Chinese models are working but honestly too few compared to how many beautiful girls are in China and I should know as I track them down everyday for my blog. There are also too few arabs or Indian, or black models working right now. In fact I can't think of a famous Indian model...http://s4/mw690/0037lTk6gy6N3GlFz9hd3&690
现在的巴黎、伦敦或是纽约，多数设计师从来都是把他们的服装加在金发碧眼、骨瘦如柴的无名嫩模身上。那些多样化的秀场岁月已经一去不复返了。Yves Saint Laurent曾拥有包括第一代超模如Mounia，Katoucha，Khadija，Kirat，Dalma和Anna Bayle在内的，多种族和年龄层混合的传奇超模们，设计大师Azzedine Alaia也是如此。但这绝不是我以为想念的异域部分，而是你可以从中看到服装因模特而富有生命力和舞动力的神奇魔力。要知道，蓝绿色或者粉红色会让我看起来可怕，但是Mounia让这些颜色闪耀着光芒。

In Paris, London or New York the designers will show their collections mostly on blond,white, blue eyes,slavic, very young, ultra-thin (and starving) anonymous girls. The years of the diversified catwalks seem sadly gone forever. Yves Saint Laurent had one of the most racially and age mixed cabin in the business with legendary models like first and foremost Mounia, but also Katoucha, Khadija, Kirat, Dalma, Anna Bayle. So did Azzedine Alaia. It's not the (silly) exotic aspect that I miss most.  It is how amazingly those beautiful models made the clothes dance and live.Turquoise and Pink on me look Blah... on Mounia they shined.

http://s4/mw690/0037lTk6zy6N3G2I8hl13&690她是一位真正的舞台皇后。
She was truly a queen.
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现在的Mounia是一位歌手，也是一名画家，现居巴黎和马提尼克。

Today she is a singer and painter and lives between Paris and her native Martinique.

http://s10/mw690/0037lTk6gy6N3GQltvb99&690Yves Saint Laurent与Katoucha一起工作
Yves Saint Laurent at work on Katoucha.

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