穿越天台十里铁甲龙

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十里铁甲龙，算我孤陋寡闻，还是第一次听说，奇怪山崖用这样的名称。经网上查询，十里铁甲龙位于浙江省天台县街头镇张家桐村和后岸村之间，是天台山西部一道亮丽景观，屏岩耸峙，绵亘十里，气势十分壮观，因石色铁黑，就像乌龙身上的鳞甲，故称十里铁甲龙。

 

    阳春三月，万物复苏，早就按奈不住新春萌动的脚步。永嘉登山运动协会户外穿越十里铁甲龙活动帖一发出就爆满，可见大家对200公里外的铁甲龙多么期待。2021年3月13日上午7点包车前往目的地台州市天台县街头镇后岸村。

行车2小时后，我们一行28人来到有浙江小丽江美称的后岸村。始丰溪蜿蜒过村，十里铁甲龙如一道青色的屏障横亘田间，秀奇磅礴，数十条天然巨岩峭列横宕，如屏如画，气势恢宏、极具视力冲击感。古村里，青石通衢，石屋玲珑，游鱼相戏，绿柳垂岸，令人恍如世外桃源。此地亦为唐代“和合二仙”之--诗僧寒山子的隐居地。经过多年打造，后岸村面貌日新月异，农家乐发展如火如荼，现已发展成为集漂流、登山、垂钓、观光、采摘、餐饮、住宿及商务接待于一体的综合性农家乐休闲度假村，可供住宿床位近千个，年接待游客十万余人。后岸村的发展模式也被称为“后岸模式”。原浙江省委书记夏宝龙和省长李强于2013年7月和2014年8月先后考察天台县后岸村。

徒步铁甲龙，可以把起点定在张家桐村，终点为寒岩洞（后岸村），当然也可以反穿。这次我们从后岸村出发，路过桃花园，前往寒岩洞。可惜稍早了一周，桃花还没盛开，万亩桃花只能一眼略过。

 

    天台山这一带，徐霞客称为“石壁直上如劈”的山崖。这样连成一排的山崖屏障，岩石裸露而峥嵘，足可用壮观来形容。更何况山崖错落有致，崖壁上还遍布着高高低低、形状不一的洞穴。洞穴和奇石，构成天台山独特的“非喀斯特地质的喀斯特地貌”，令人怦然心动。

徒步20来分钟，来到寒岩洞。寒岩洞又称"寒岩洞天"，高15米，宽48米，深78米，可容纳上千人。旧名拊石洞，因为宋代大书法家米芾在洞中书有"潜真"二字，而改名"潜真洞"。洞壁有“寒岩洞天” “小清凉”等石刻。寒岩因唐代诗僧寒山子在此隐居70多年而得名，洞前有寒岩寺遗址。洞左岩壁奇险，垂陡的峭壁上乱石嶙峋，石笋斜长，柔树幽篁映衬，有瀑下洒，当夕阳西照之时，潭水反射，映诸岩屏，色彩绚丽多姿，天台十景—— "寒岩夕照"之名即来源于此。寒岩洞口有"龟"、"蛇"相守，是天然岩石生成。尤其是石蛇，大如粗柱，从地下钻出，翘首望天，像极了。洞口有块大石，称"宴坐石"，是寒山子宴坐之处。遥想当年，寒山独居于此，虽然这样的面积在现在也算大宅了，只是寒来暑往，饥寒交迫，孤独寂寞，孑然一身，其苦况恐非我们所能想象。然而，身在寒岩洞，回味寒山之诗，才能领悟意境。“人问寒山道，寒山路不通。夏天冰未释，日出雾朦胧。似我何由届，与君心不同。君心若似我，还得到其中。”“杳杳寒山道，落落冷涧滨。啾啾常有鸟，寂寂更无人。淅淅风吹面，纷纷雪积身。朝朝不见日，岁岁不知春。”“吾家好隐沦，居处绝嚣尘。践草成三径，瞻云作四邻。助歌声有鸟，问法语无人。今日娑婆树，几年为一春。”“登陟寒山道，寒山路不穷。谿长石磊磊，涧阔草蒙蒙。苔滑非关雨，松鸣不假风。谁能超世累，共坐白云中。”“重岩中，足清风。扇不摇，凉气通。明月照，白云笼。独自坐，一老翁。”寒山子生前穷困潦倒，在中国历史上名不见经传，却在1000多年之后深刻影响美国的“垮掉的一代”，成为美国20世纪六七十年代兴起的嬉皮士运动的宗师、欧美反主流运动的精神来源。

过了寒岩洞，前行150来米，来到鹊桥。鹊桥又叫旱石梁。徐霞客在游记中说：“循岩石行，从石隘仰登。岩坳有两石对耸，下分上连，为鹊桥，亦可与方广石梁争奇，但少飞瀑直下耳。”鹊桥的桥梁，长约6米，高约8米，离地约60米，高大宏伟。左边与鹊桥近在咫尺，有一个小山洞，上面有一根碗口粗的石梁，玲珑别致，被人们称为小鹊桥。

 

    一路继续前行40来分钟来到龙须洞。洞内欢声笑语，原来是一群临海驴友在洞降。看到我们到来，正在三十多米高空的两位女汉子更是兴奋，整齐划一地展示着空中芭蕾。龙须洞的整个山洞像一口巨大的金钟，顶部离地达七八十米，底部近似圆形，直径二三十米。顶部有几个石隙漏下亮光，像夜空中出现的星辰，又像天空漏了几个洞，等待着女娲去补。更有长年不竭的泉水从顶端飘洒而下，极富想象力的人们称它为下垂的龙须，洞也因以得名。由于长年泉水飘洒，底部中间低，有浅浅的积水，周围高，像一口相当平坦的锅。龙须洞是仅次于寒岩洞的一个大岩洞，而高度又远高于寒岩洞，形态也远比寒岩洞多姿多彩。寒山子作诗状其龙须洞的形神：迥耸霄汉外,云里路迢迢，瀑布千丈流,如铺练一条。下有栖云窟,横安定命桥，雄雄镇世界,天台名独标。“龙须洞”被《台州府志》谓为“台山绝胜处”。

再往东行，则来到金牛洞。一说金牛洞的岩石就像一头牛，站在下面仔细看，可以清晰地看出牛角牛眼牛鼻子牛嘴巴。这个洞，有人称之为“飞鱼洞”，因为洞口像鲫鱼，亦十分形象。只能从东侧上洞，手脚并用抓住岩棱角上去，洞内也很宽敞，有两个洞口，人家称呼为牛鼻洞，阳光充裕，适合修身养性。透过洞口，能看到张家桐的房舍。金牛洞边上的象鼻岩，则被当地人称为仙人桥，与寒岩洞附近的鹊桥遥相呼应。

一路前行，大大小小的洞穴奇石数不胜数：寒岩洞、天打罅、纱帽岩、玉旨石、灵芝石、飞鱼洞、仙人桥、情侣洞、阴阳洞、金牛洞、梦笔生花、展旗岩、将军石、通天洞等等，其奇特的造型、谜一样的现象和美丽动人的传说，令驴友一饱眼福，兴奋不已。寒山子这样形容奇石幽谷：余家本住在天台，云路烟深绝客来。千仞岩峦深可遁，万重溪涧石楼台。

下午3点左右，我们来到这次穿越终点张家桐村。这是一个让绘画大师吴冠中心动的地方，吴老在这里流连忘返。他曾经这样描写：“背靠山岩，建立在高低曲折地基上的古老山村隐现于大岩石之间。入村，村里有巨石、池塘、棕榈、野藤……处处入画，因为具备块面及点线之多样形式变化，且男女老幼相呼应，老牛犊子随处走，生活气息十分浓厚……这个山村的美是真实的，旧和脏不能掩盖山村本质之美。”

附1：休闲的驴行线路:后岸寒岩洞渡仙桥龙须洞猫鱼洞骑象洞金牛洞十里铁甲龙张家桐村后岸。也可反穿!全程约5公里，用时3-4小时，适合春秋冬季穿越、摄影。二日游线路：张思古村——十里铁甲龙——宿后岸民宿——天台山大瀑布——国清寺

附2：寒山子：唐代诗僧，姓名无从查考，生卒不详，长住天台山寒岩洞中。与拾得、丰干皆隐栖天台山国清寺，故称"国清三隐"。寒山子诗有鲜明的乐府民歌风，通俗易懂，机趣昂然。全唐诗汇编成《寒山子诗阜》一卷，收录诗歌三百余首。寒山似儒似道亦似佛，非儒非道亦非佛，在中国历史名不见经传，却在1000多年之后深刻影响美国的“垮掉的一代”，成为美国20世纪五十年代起的20世纪六七十年代兴起的嬉皮士运动的宗师、欧美反主流运动的精神来源，成就了一个国际化的文化现象——寒山文化。

附3：寒山行《徐霞客游记》：渡溪左行，又八里，南折入山。陟小岭二重，又六里，重溪回合中，忽石岩高峙，其南即寒岩，东即明岩也。令僮先驰，炊于明岩寺，余辈遂南向寒岩。路左俱悬崖盘列，中有一洞岈然。洞前石兔蹲伏，口耳俱备。路右即大溪萦回，中一石突出如擎盖，心颇异之。既入寺，向僧索龙须洞灵芝石，即此也。寒岩在寺后，宏敞有余，玲珑未足。由洞右一上，视鹊桥而出。由旧路一里，右入龙须洞。路为莽棘所翳，上跻里许，如历九霄。其洞圆耸明豁，洞中斜倚一石，颇似雁宕之石梁，而梁顶有泉中洒，与宝冠之芭蕉洞如出一冶。下山，仍至旧路口，东溯小溪，南转入明岩寺。寺在岩中，石崖四面环之，止东面八寸关通路一线。寺后洞窈窕非一，洞右有石笋突起，虽不及灵芝之雄伟，亦具体而微小巧矣。

附4：寒山禅诗24首（中英对照）
1、可笑寒山道

可笑寒山道，而无车马踪；联溪难记曲，叠嶂不知重．

泣露千般草，吟风一样松；此时迷径处，形问影何从？

The path to Han-shan's place is laughable,

A path, but no sign of cart or horse.

Converging gorges - hard to trace their

Twists  Jumbled cliffs - unbelievably rugged.

A thousand grasses bend with dew,

A hill of pines hums in the wind.

And now I've lost the shortcut home,

Body asking shadow, how do you keep up?

2、重岩我卜居

重岩我卜居，鸟道绝人迹。庭际何所有，白云抱幽石。

住兹凡几年，屡见春冬易。寄语钟鼎家，虚名定无益。

In a tangle of cliffs, I chose a place -

Bird paths, but no trails for me.

What's beyond the yard?

White clouds clinging to vague rocks.

Now I've lived here - how many years -

Again and again, spring and winter pass.

Go tell families with silverware and cars

"What's the use of all that noise and money?""
寄语钟鼎家" 译的是"Gotell families with silverware and cars"。

3、山中何太冷

山中何太冷？自古非今年；沓嶂恒凝雪，幽林每吐烟．

草生芒种后，叶落立秋前；此有沈迷客，窥窥不见天．

In the mountains it's cold.

Always been cold, not just this year.

Jagged scarps forever snowed in

Woods in the dark ravines spitting mist.

Grass is still sprouting at the end of June,

Leaves begin to fall in early August.

And here I am, high on mountains,

Peering and peering, but I can't even see the sky.

4、驱马度荒城

驱马度荒城，荒城动客情。高低旧雉堞，大小古坟茔。

自振孤蓬影，长凝拱木声。所嗟皆俗骨，仙史更无名。

I spur my horse through the wrecked town,

The wrecked town sinks my spirit.

High, low, old parapet walls

Big, small, the aging tombs.

I waggle my shadow, all alone;

Not even the crack of a shrinking coffin is heard.

I pity all those ordinary bones,

In the books of the Immortals they are nameless.

5.欲得安身处

欲得安身处，寒山可长保。微风吹幽松，近听声愈好。

下有斑白人，喃喃读黄老。十年归不得，忘却来时道。

I wanted a good place to settle:

Cold Mountain would be safe.

Light wind in a hidden pine -

Listen close - the sound gets better.

Under it a gray haired man

Mumbles along reading Huang and Lao.

For ten years I havn't gone back home

I've even forgotten the way by which I came.

6.人问寒山道

人问寒山道，寒山路不通。夏天冰未释，日出雾朦胧。

似我何由届，与君心不同。君心若似我，还得到其中。

Men ask the way to Cold Mountain

Cold Mountain: there's no through trail.

In summer, ice doesn't melt

The rising sun blurs in swirling fog.

How did I make it?

My heart's not the same as yours.

If your heart was like mine

You'd get it and be right here.

7.粤自居寒山

粤自居寒山，曾经几万载。任运遁林泉，栖迟观自在。

寒岩人不到，白云常爱逮。细草作卧褥，青天为被盖。快活枕石头，天地任变改。

I settled at Cold Mountain long ago,

Already it seems like years and years.

Freely drifting, I prowl the woods and

Streams And linger watching things themselves.

Men don't get this far into the mountains,

White clouds gather and billow.

Thin grass does for a mattress,

The blue sky makes a good quilt.

Happy with a stone under head

Let heaven and earth go about their changes.

8.登陟寒山道

登陟寒山道，寒山路不穷。溪长石磊磊，涧阔草蒙蒙。

苔滑非闗雨，松鸣不假风。谁能超世累，共坐白云中。

Clambering up the Cold Mountain path,

The Cold Mountain trail goes on and on:

The long gorge choked with scree and boulders,

The wide creek, the mist blurred grass.

The moss is slippery, though there's been

no rain The pine sings, but there's no wind.

Who can leap the world's ties

And sit with me among the white clouds?

9 杳杳寒山道

杳杳寒山道，落落冷涧滨。啾啾常有鸟，寂寂更无人。

淅淅风吹面，纷纷雪积身。朝朝不见日，岁岁不知春。

Rough and dark - the Cold Mountain trail,

Sharp cobbles - the icy creek bank.

Yammering, chirping - always birds

Bleak, alone, not even a lone hiker.

Whip, whip - the wind slaps my face

Whirled and tumbled - snow piles on my back.

Morning after morning I don't see the sun

Year after year, not a sign of spring.

10、一向寒山坐

一向寒山坐，淹留三十年。昨来访亲友，太半入黄泉。

渐减如残烛，长流似逝川。今朝对孤影，不觉泪双悬。

I have lived at Cold Mountain

These thirty long years.

Yesterday I called on friends and family:

More than half had gone to the Yellow Springs.

Slowly consumed, like fire down a candle;

Forever flowing, like a passing river.

Now, morning, I face my lone shadow:

Suddenly my eyes are bleared with tears.

11、碧涧泉水清

碧涧泉水清，寒山月华白。默知神自明，观空境逾寂。

Spring water in the green creek is clear

Moonlight on Cold Mountain is white

Silent knowledge - the spirit is

enlightened of itself

Contemplate the void: this world exceeds stillness.

12、出生三十年

出生三十年，常游千万里。行江青草合，入塞红尘起。

炼药空求仙，读书兼咏史。今日归寒山，枕流兼洗耳。

In my first thirty years of life

I roamed hundreds and thousands of miles.

Walked by rivers through deep green grass

Entered cities of boiling red dust.

Tried drugs, but couldn't make Immortal;

Read books and wrote poems on history.

Today I'm back at Cold Mountain:

I'll sleep by the creek and purify my ears.

13、鸟语情不堪

鸟语情不堪，其时卧草庵。樱桃红烁烁，杨柳正毵毵。

旭日衔青嶂，晴云洗绿潭。谁知出尘俗，驭上寒山南。

I can't stand these bird songs

Now I'll go rest in my straw shack.

The cherry flowers are scarlet

The willow shoots up feathery.

Morning sun drives over blue peaks

Bright clouds wash green ponds.

Who knows that I'm out of the dusty world

Climbing the southern slope of Cold Mountain?

14、寒山多幽奇

寒山多幽奇，登者皆恒慑。月照水澄澄，风吹草猎猎。

凋梅雪作花，杌木云充叶。触雨转鲜灵，非晴不可涉。

Cold Mountain has many hidden wonders,

People who climb here are always getting scared.

When the moon shines, water sparkles clear

When the wind blows, grass swishes and rattles.

On the bare plum, flowers of snow

On the dead stump, leaves of mist.

At the touch of rain it all turns fresh and

Live At the wrong season you can't ford the creeks.

15、寒山有裸虫

寒山有裸虫，身白而头黑。手把两卷书，一道将一德。

住不安釜灶，行不赍衣裓。常持智慧剑，拟破烦恼贼。

There's a naked bug at Cold Mountain

With a white body and a black head.

His hand holds two book scrolls,

One the Way and one its Power.

His shack's got no pots or oven,

He goes for a long walk with his shirt and

pants askew.

But he always carries the sword of wisdom:

He means to cut down senseless craving.

16、寒山有一宅

寒山有一宅，宅中无阑隔。六门左右通，堂中见天碧。

房房虚索索，东壁打西壁。其中一物无，免被人来惜。

寒到烧软火，饥来煮菜吃。不学田舍翁，广置牛庄宅。

尽作地狱业，一入何曾极。好好善思量，思量知轨则。

Cold Mountain is a house

Without beams or walls.

The six doors left and right are open

The hall is sky blue.

The rooms all vacant and vague

The east wall beats on the west wall

At the center nothing.

Borrowers don't bother me

In the cold I build a little fire

When I'm hungry I boil up some greens.

I've got no use for the kulak

With his big barn and pasture -

He just sets up a prison for himself.

Once in he can't get out.

Think it over -

You know it might happen to you.

17、一自遁寒山

一自遁寒山，养命餐山果。平生何所忧，此世随缘过。

日月如逝川，光阴石中火。任你天地移，我畅岩中坐。

If I hide out at Cold Mountain

Living off mountain plants and berries -

All my lifetime, why worry?

One follows his karma through.

Days and months slip by like water,

Time is like sparks knocked off flint.

Go ahead and let the world change -

I'm happy to sit among these cliffs.

18、多少天台人

多少天台人，不识寒山子。莫知真意度，唤作闲言语。

Most T'ien-t'ai men

Don't know Han-shan

Don't know his real thought

And call it silly talk.

19、一住寒山万事休

一住寒山万事休，更无杂念挂心头。闲于石壁题诗句，任运还同不系舟。

Once at Cold Mountain, troubles cease -

No more tangled, hung up mind.

I idly scribble poems on the rock cliff,

Taking whatever comes, like a drifting boat.

20、客难寒山子

客难寒山子，君诗无道理。吾观乎古人，贫贱不为耻。

应之笑此言，谈何疏阔矣。愿君似今日，钱是急事尔。

Some critic tried to put me down -

"Your poems lack the Basic Truth of Tao."

And I recall the old timers

Who were poor and didn't care.

I have to laugh at him,

He misses the point entirely,

Men like that Ought to stick to making money.

21久住寒山凡几秋

久住寒山凡几秋，独吟歌曲绝无忧。蓬扉不掩常幽寂，泉涌甘浆长自流。

石室地炉砂鼎沸，松黄柏茗乳香瓯。饥餐一粒伽陀药，心地调和倚石头。

I've lived at Cold Mountain - how many autumns.

Alone, I hum a song - utterly without Regret Hungry,

I eat one grain of Immortal medicine

Mind solid and sharp; leaning on a stone.

22、寒山顶上月轮孤

寒山顶上月轮孤，照见晴空一物无。可贵天然无价宝，埋在五阴溺身躯。

On top of Cold Mountain the lone round moon

Lights the whole clear cloudless sky.

Honor this priceless natural treasure

Concealed in five shadows, sunk deep in the flesh.

23、我家本住在寒山

我家本住在寒山，石岩栖息离烦缘。泯时万象无痕迹，舒处周流遍大千。

光影腾辉照心地，无有一法当现前。方知摩尼一颗珠，解用无方处处圆。

My home was at Cold Mountain from the start,

Rambling among the hills, far from trouble.

Gone, and a million things leave no trace Loosed,

and it flows through galaxies A fountain of light,

 into the very mind -

Not a thing, and yet it appears before me:

Now I know the pearl of the Buddha nature

Know its use: a boundless perfect sphere.

24、时人见寒山

时人见寒山，各谓是风颠。貌不起人目，身唯布裘缠。

我语他不会，他语我不言。为报往来者，可来向寒山。

When men see Han-shan

They all say he's crazy

And not much to look at -

Dressed in rags and hides.

They don't get what I say

And I don't talk their language.

All I can say to those I meet.——Tr: Gary

Snyde （Gary Snyder 译）