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Feudal finery
(2014-03-12 23:25:40)
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陳先生的復古照相仕女圖娱乐文化 |
Posing in elegant cheongsams, two women step into the past. Photo: Courtesy of Chen Runxi
"You are what you wear," some say. If a person's clothing and makeup style says a lot about her background and social status, then what can we assume about a woman who dons vintage costumes?On a chilly January day, Sun Jialin, 32, wore only a thin silk cheongsam from the Republic of China period (1912-1949). Following the instructions of the photographer, she posed and giggled as if she were an elegant lady from a noble family who had just returned to Shanghai after studying overseas.
Like many modern Chinese women who obsess over period films and TV dramas, Sun had fantasized herself in a glamorous role based on her admiration for women of this era. "They were graceful, intellectual and independent, just like the author Eileen Chang," said Sun, who works for a State-owned company in Beijing.
Sun spent about 5,000 yuan ($814) on the photo shoot, which was organized by Mr Chen's Restoration Photo Studio. "Their aesthetic philosophy differs from those of commercial studios, which often emphasize heavy and exaggerated makeup and sexy postures, which I dislike," said Sun. "For example, intellectual women wouldn't have worn close-fitting cheongsams and coquettish makeup," said Sun.
For Chen Runxi, who founded the studio in 2013, authenticity is key to recreating historical aesthetics. The studio only provides four types of photo shoots: women of the Tang (618-907), Song (960-1279) and Ming (1368-1644) dynasties, as well as the Republic of China period.
"They reflect historically different types of beauty," said Chen, 30, who is currently based in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, "Using makeup, costumes, and poses, I create images that strictly adhere to images from antique frescoes, paintings and literature."
This is why Chen was deeply disappointed with the costume used for the titular character in the film
A graduate from the Xi'an Academy of Fine Arts, Chen has long had a passion for designing ancient costumes. In 2012, while working as a Photoshop teacher at Zhong Yi Image Education Institution in Beijing, he posted shots of Tang Dynasty scenes on Sina Weibo, which wowed netizens and earned him many fans. Heartened by this success, he quit his job, sold his apartment and established the photo studio.
Because Chen personally oversees the entire shoot and Photoshopping processes himself, he only accepts 10 appointments each month. The studio is currently booked through October of this year. Chen has declined opportunities to open franchises in other Chinese cities. "Business is not that important at this stage. I still need time to study traditional costumes and furniture to refine our settings," he said.
When Yu Yuanxiao, a tea ceremony teacher requested a Song Dynasty theme for her photo shoot, Chen recreated a scene near the West Lake that has been described in Song poems.
"I was surprised - they even had a beautiful hair clip made with diancui," said Yu, referring to a traditional ornamental handicraft involving kingfisher feathers. "That craft has almost died out."
Bedecked in the Song headwear and gowns, Yu attempted to tap into the feeling of being a woman of that era. "Song women were cultured and demure. After the photo shoot, I feel that I have a better understanding of poems written in the Song dynasty," she said.
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