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高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行

(2014-12-26 12:54:42)
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自驾墨脱

果果塘大弯

雨中行摄

旅游

杂谈

高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行

真是人算不如天算。                                                                                                                                      早早地就开始数日子,盼望能有一个晴天进墨脱,可是临了临了偏偏赶上个雨天。                                       ----                                                                                                                                                              车行至52K,例行第一次公安边防检查(检查边防证  身份证  驾驶证)  。                                                      原本独行的我们,在此汇聚了许多的朋友。大家趁此下车休息,冒雨拍照。                                                    ----                                                                                                                                                              这时只见公路左侧山峦间若隐若现的冰川(后来我们才知道这是嘎隆拉冰川),千姿百态的树木,                      在雨雾中仿佛仙境一般,不可复制的美。
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           远眺嘎隆拉冰川
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       茂密的原始森林
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 山中的云雾飘渺   有一种神秘感
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         途中路遇的朋友们
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             车子启程后,形成了一个小小的车队。                                                                                                           一路上只见层层叠叠的山,浓浓淡淡的雾,郁郁葱葱的林,犹如丹青水墨。                                                      而此时的雨又为我们进入墨脱增添了神秘的色彩。
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                       临近80K时,对面陆陆续续返回几台车。告知我们:80K至墨脱段有塌方,返回吧!                                          我记得很清楚一辆北京牌号的车拦下了我们说:咱们都是北方老乡,我劝你们还是别去了,我在80K等了一宿,塌方的路都未修好,别冒这个险了。                                                                                                                 也许是对这段路心存忐忑吧,这一队十多台车都陆陆续续地返回了,只有我们坚持走到了80K。                       当时的想法很简单:来一次墨脱不容易,说什么也要到塌方地点问清楚了再做决定。                                      ----                                                                                                                                                                80K的公安人员看我们坚持不返回便与我们攀谈起来。说:今天到目前为止只有你们一台车坚持要进墨脱,但塌方还未排除,不能放行,就再等等吧!                                                                                                           时间一分一秒的过去,雨中的80K很安静。                                                                                                    就在我们几乎动摇的那一刻,公安人员兴奋地跑过来说:可以走了,可以走了!前面的塌方排除了。                 真是苍天不负有心人啊,我们很激动。与公安人员告别后,单车驶向墨脱。                                                        ----                                                                                                                                                               接下来的路很难走,山中的土路坑坑洼洼,在雨水的冲刷下,泥泞打滑。路窄弯急,并多次遇到很深的涉水和曾经塌方过的路段。
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          快接近墨脱时路边出现这些热带植物
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             途中的寨子
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行


下午时分,我们终于走进墨脱。                                                                                                                       墨脱是一个建在山顶上的小镇。                                                                                                                        镇虽小宾馆,饭店一应俱全。                                                                                                                          我们住在莲花大酒店。
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             墨脱县城
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              去果果塘蛇形大弯的路很不好走。十三公里的盘山土路坑坑洼洼积满了水
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               果果塘蛇形大弯是一个很美的地方,但下雨未能拍好
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                       第二天清晨雨依然在下,我们早早的就出发了。                                                                                             到达公安检查站时又被告知:前面有塌方,不能放行!真是怕什么来什么!                                                     边检的车越停越多,又是一个漫长的等待。                                                                                                    十二时三十分检查站终于放行了,别提心里有多高兴。                                                                                   ----                                                                                                                                                              谁也没有想到的是,半个小时后汽车驶进塌方地点,新的塌方又出现了。                                                        这次我们身临其境 亲眼目睹了三块巨石从山上滚下来的情景,真是惊心动魄啊!                                              一块巨石落在了路边,两块巨石滚落了山崖,幸亏没有堵塞公路。                                                                  ----                                                                                                                                                                 护路人员迅速清理后,准备放行。塌方的一头是护路队的负责人,另一头是观察员。当观察员发出放行信号后,车一辆一辆的通过。在出发前负责人要对每辆车嘱咐一句话。轮到我们时照旧摇下了车窗,只听负责人说:保持车距,快速通过(因为塌方还在继续,必须谨慎快速地通过)!                                                                         ----                                                                                                                                                                 只一句话,让我们心头一热,敬意油然而生!                                                                                                没有这些护路人冒着生命危险为我们开路,哪有我们的行走。                                                                            当通过塌方区后,我们为观察员按了一声喇叭,表示深深的敬意!
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        三块巨石滚落的现场   大家都在紧张地观望
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                       通过塌方区不久,车队的前车又停了下来。下车一看,前面又塌方了!                                                           只不过这次不是巨石,而是些人能搬动的中等石块,加上塌方时间不长,路面的堆积物还不算多。                    车上的人开始下车观望。                                                                                                                               这时只见三位河南五六十岁的老先生(在路上认识的)与几位藏人在塌方不断的情况下,走进塌方区,清理路面。并效仿护路队的做法,指挥车队顺利地通过。                                                                                            看到这一场景,在场的人都为之动容。在和平年代,在少有的生命的考验面前,他们能够挺身而出,着实让我们感动,并留下了深刻的印象。
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          山上的水流如注
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        天上的水,山里的水都涌入雅江,雅江咆哮了----
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       嘎隆拉雪山海拔4200米,新修的隧道3000余米,使天险变通途
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           嘎隆拉山风光
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          天色昏暗,雾气笼罩山谷。                                                                                                                           一路上雨水,飞石不断----                                                                                                                              我们终于有惊无险地走出墨脱,回到了波密。
高原上的行走(33天)——雨中墨脱行
                                                                                                                                                                                   温馨提示:波密至墨脱只有约115公里。其中近四分之一还是柏油路,因此就公路本身并没有那么难走。难点在于:一,只要下雨就有塌方,很容易被困住;二,雨水冲击山里的土路,坑坑洼洼,泥泞打滑;涉水较深,不好走。三,去墨脱最好还是避开雨天。·                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           (谢谢浏览  待续)

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