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尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区

(2014-11-17 13:02:37)
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走进尼泊尔

泥石流塌方

行摄

旅游

       连续的高原行走和反反复复的身体不适,让我对这次尼泊尔之行充满期待。                                                                                                                                                                                                                               樟木这个挂在山上的小城,寸土寸金,找个车位都很难。好在我们住进了“樟木宾馆”,这是当地唯一有停车场的宾馆,也是唯一的一家涉外宾馆。出境时可以在此存车,存车费每天30元。出境手续在拉萨的尼泊尔使馆办理 ,既简单又便捷。(这些攻略在网上很多,就不写了)                                                                                      到达樟木后我们得到的第一个消息就是:两个月前在去往加德满都的路上发生了泥石流塌方,村庄被埋,道路中断。要想通过只有两种方法:一是乘直升机,每人1200元人民币,六人一个航次,20分钟可到达加德满都;二是坐汽车到塌方区后步行爬山两个半小时过塌方区。                                                                                        我们首选当然是乘直升机,虽然花点钱,但既快又省了很多的麻烦。可怎么也凑不齐六个人,只得放弃。  无奈之下选第二种方法,当时我想:不就两个半小时的山路吗,算什么呀!为了能轻手利脚地走,我甚至连水和食品都没有带。                                                                                                                                              ----                                                                                                                                                                 第二天早上八点多钟到海关门前排队等候,十点钟才正式放行。                                                                      我记得当天出境的尼泊尔人很多,中国的游客不超过二十人。                                                                          出关,  过友谊桥,进入尼泊尔。                                                                                                                      ----尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               中尼友谊桥,桥对岸就是尼泊尔
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  进入尼泊尔
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区

 踏上尼泊尔的土地,                                                                                                                                     首先映入眼帘的是:                                                                                                                                        泥泞的道路,满地的垃圾,                                                                                                                              随处停放的汽车,嘈杂的租车市场。尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区

我们快步逃离这里,租了一辆小车,向加德满都方向驶去。                                                                            路很烂,車颠得很厉害,头都能碰到了车棚顶,我的手始终紧握着车把手。                                                       两个多小时后到达泥石流塌方区。                                                                                                                   ----尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         泥石流塌方地带
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区

 车刚一停下,就被一群当地的小男孩儿围住。                                                                                                 说是帮助上山的人拿行李的,每人收500尼币。                                                                                              我们选了一个看着还淳朴老实的孩子,上路了。                                                                                              ----                                                                                                                                                                 所谓山路,首先应该是有路。                                                                                                                           可我上山十多分钟后明白了,这里只有山,没有路!                                                                                          ----                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              塌方地区的山林尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区

尼泊尔的地理和气候条件与樟木很相似。山高林密,地表湿滑泥泞,走起来一步一滑,一步一趔趄。山上的沟沟坎坎,乱石很多,很难爬。有时不得不手脚并用,还要借助大石块或树木,艰难的前行。遇到瀑布形成的大大小小的水沟,还得跨越。                                                                                                                                      中午时分,太阳射进山林,温度急剧上升,闷热难耐。由于多日的身体不适,再加之一口水也没喝,只觉得自己的身体到了极限,步履越发艰难。                                                                                                                 这时回头看看我的同胞们,大都汗流满面,衣着狼狈,这哪里是旅行呢,简直就像一群偷渡者。                          此时回想起过海关时,一位海关人员反复问我:你知不知道尼泊尔有泥石流塌方?我都回答说知道。他无语。  现在想起来他的潜台词应该是:知道了你还去?!                                                                                          ----                                                                                                                                                                小男孩一直快步的走在前面,走一会儿,停一下等着我们。我用手比划着问他:还有多远?他似乎看明白了,笑着指了指前方。我急切地向前望去,除了山还是山,一脸茫然。他看我实在走不动了,就伸出手来拉着我走。借助小男孩的力量,似乎轻松了一些。可他的步子很快,我很难跟上,只觉得自己两腿僵硬,踉踉跄跄,机械地被他拖着走。                                                                                                                                ----                                                                                                                                                                                    就这样我们一直走了五个多小时,终于看到了山下的小驿站,看到了汽车。                                                     此时的我已狼狈不堪,满脸通红,鞋里灌满了水,鞋面和裤腿都是泥。我瘫坐在地上,一步也不想走了。            不知过了多长时间,眼见人一个一个地都走了,才又上了汽车,依然是经历了两个多小时的烂路颠簸后到达了加德满都。                                                                                                                                                          这一路上多亏了这个小男孩的帮助,我很感激他,刚开始他要500尼币,我给了他1000尼币。                        ----                                                                                                                                                                 这就是尼泊尔给我留下的第一印象。

 说实话返程时很为难,一想到来时的情形就打怵,心有余悸。好在回程时,尼泊尔当地政府为我们找到了一条新路,虽然路也很烂,还要过木桥,但毕竟有路了。我们只用了三个小时就走出来了。                                          ----                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       尼泊尔人在抢修回程时的路尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              游人过木桥
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       尼泊尔人在过桥
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          由于公路的中断,货物只有人背
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     尼泊尔妇女很辛苦,也要和男人一样的背货
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 路遇一清秀的小姑娘,她的大眼睛老是看着我,我记住了她的眼神
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          
尼泊尔行记——徒步爬山越过泥石流塌方区
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     温馨提示:一,准备去尼泊尔的朋友,在塌方道路未修好之前,最好还是在国内乘飞机直达加德满都。如自驾的朋友一定要走樟木口岸,那就要做好徒步的准备(合适的鞋,水,小食品),路上也有人卖水,但很贵。不过现在走的路要比我们去时的路好走多了。                                                                                                      二,到尼泊尔旅行住宿很方便。大大小小的宾馆很多,且价格较便宜。一般在较正规的宾馆旁边都有旅行社,可以为你量身定制旅行路线,这点比国内要灵活和方便很多。                                                                           三,在尼泊尔语言不是问题。尼泊尔人大都会英语。由于中国游客的大量涌入,在宾馆,商店,旅行社等都会专门配有会中文的人员。                                                                                                                                  四,到尼泊尔要学会讲价。有的尼泊尔人只要人民币不要尼币,就像我国改革开放初期有的人向外国人要美元一样。                                                                                                                                                                 五,过中国海关很简单。而尼方很麻烦,一路上设有很多检查站,一般都要开箱检查。最不能容忍的就是尼方的女警肆无忌惮的搜身,当然这是个别的。-                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   (谢谢浏览  待续)

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