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独处荒寒的贝加尔湖
Timeless Solitude of Lake
Baikal
Lake Baikal, the 'Pearl of Sibetia', is a crystal-clear body of the
bluest water. When the famous Russian philosopher
Bierkayev said that the nation has a soule of
black wine, he probably refered to the great lake.
In fact, it's drinkably pure, surrounded by rocky,
tree-covered cliffs and so vast that one can sail for hours without
the mountain backdrops becoming appreciably
closer.
Shaped like a banana, Lake Baikal —636km from
north to south, but only 60km wide —was formed by rifting tectonic
plates. Though nearly 8km of the rift is fillede with sediment, it
is gradually getting deeper as the plates seperate. It will
eventually become the earth's fifth ocean, splitting the Asian
contiment. In the meanwhile it's the world's deepest lake:
1637m near the western shore. It is so of deeply
beauty that a metaphor haunts me often —Lake
Baikal is just like a great
Goet-typed church upside down into the ground. As
such, it contains nearly one-fifth of the world's fresh, unfrozen
water — more than North America's five Great lakes
combined.
Lake
Baikal also has its own special history of
humanities.For instance, once upon a time in 19th
century, some famouse Decembrists lived and worked
here, and much earlier than that, a
Chinese official named Suwu, who had been sent on
commission by the Emperor of Han Danasty, was kept here as a
herdsman of sheep. At that time, Lake Baikal was
called Beihai Sea in our Chinese classics. Areas around the lake
and of whole Siberia have been
famouse for exiles. Though the
Siberian exile system wa abolished at the turn of the 20th century,
but Stalin brought it back with a vengeance. It
was during his rule that Siberia became synonymous with death. For
all the reasons, Lake Baikal has the
quality to be selected a cultural as well bas
natural heritage of the world.
And the wildlife is unique.Thanks to warm water
entering from vents in the bottom of the lake, and the filtering
action of countless millions of minute crustaceans called epishura,
the water is exceptionally bclear and pure. Over 1000 species of
plants and animals live in the lake, nearly all endemic, including
200 of shrimp and 80 of flatworm. One of the latter is the world's
largest and eats fish. Uniquely for a deep lake, life exists right
down to the bottom.
The many kinds of fish include the
endemic omul, Baikal's mian commercial fish. A remarkable bspecies,
the omul is reputed to emit a shrill cry when caught. It spawns in
the Selenga River, but its main food source is the endemic Baikal
alga,nmelosira. The golomyanka, a pink, translucent oilfish with
large pectorial fines, is the lake's most common
fish as well as endemic, by day it lives in the
deep, dark depths, rising at night to near the surface. Golomyanka
is the preferred food of the Baikal seal, the
world's only freshwater seal, with no
relatives nearer than the ringed seal of the
Arctic and at the top of the food chain.
There
is plenty of other wildlife around the lake. The huge delta, nearly
40km wide, formed by the sediment brought down to
the lake by the Selenga River, is a great attraction to wild fowl
and wading birds. In summer such beautiful and rare species as the
Asiatic Dowitcher and White-wingled black tern nest there, while in
autumn vast numbere of waterfowl from the north use the mudflats
and marshes to rest and feed on their migration
south — a sort of international bird airport
— while many overwinter there,
too.