加载中…Vintage著裝哲學
(2011-05-16 11:57:25)
标签：
vintagefashion哲學时尚 |
分类： 著裝＋單品 |
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Free & Easy的主編小野里念在《My Rugged
211》一書中有一段精彩的關於Vintage著裝的論述。讀完之後我覺得受益匪淺，於是想把文章翻譯出來跟更多人分享。書中是日文英文雙語，小弟就把英文的部分copy上來，再翻譯成中文吧。開始前要先解釋一下他的vintage概念，vintage對他來説（至少在文章中）就是unfashionable
fashion或者是rugged
fashion。“rugged（粗獷、粗糙）”一詞在他的文中基本與“vintage”是可以互換的字眼。
英文原文：
We all know that first impression is very important and the appearance of a person talks much. In a business meeting, especially in fashion business where parties' artistic values count a lot, self-producing becomes very important. For me, if my client is dressed in unbuttoned high-collard shirt and pimp-like suit I start to feel very nervous. I might even have bad expectation that this business will be a hard one because of difference between parties. But, as a matter of fact, in Japanese fashion business, I have met so many people in those this pimp-like style. Perhaps those guys in pimp-like suit will feel the same way as I do because the rugged style I wear will seem to conflict their dress code. In my opinion fashion is to represent a person's character and attitude so thats why we have to pay attention to what to wear and sometimes we even disguise ourselves as another personality.
But for me it is so definite. Being rugged is the only style I quest. I never wanted to be seen as a fashionable guy who follows trends. That's why I chose to wear rugged clothing. Also the fashion business that expanded too big seemed to be very vague for me and I felt comfortable in rugged fashion. Fashion brands and magazines together have desperately kept introducing trends in fashion to enlarge the market. And after all, we see the mountain of discarded clothes that went out of fashion. But now, some people begin to know that fashion is meaningless in a sense. And I stopped following fashion trends by being stuck on the rugged style.
Unfortunately some fashion firms are trying to imitate the rugged fashion in their collections recently. They look for another theme every season and now "rugged" items are their tools to lure people. But sooner or later their so called "rugged" will be unmasked. I understand that fashion is a part of culture. But I'm so sure that fashion itself will never create culture and it is only business procedure that built on vanity and lapse of the time. In this sense being rugged is completely different from fashion.
英文原文：
We all know that first impression is very important and the appearance of a person talks much. In a business meeting, especially in fashion business where parties' artistic values count a lot, self-producing becomes very important. For me, if my client is dressed in unbuttoned high-collard shirt and pimp-like suit I start to feel very nervous. I might even have bad expectation that this business will be a hard one because of difference between parties. But, as a matter of fact, in Japanese fashion business, I have met so many people in those this pimp-like style. Perhaps those guys in pimp-like suit will feel the same way as I do because the rugged style I wear will seem to conflict their dress code. In my opinion fashion is to represent a person's character and attitude so thats why we have to pay attention to what to wear and sometimes we even disguise ourselves as another personality.
But for me it is so definite. Being rugged is the only style I quest. I never wanted to be seen as a fashionable guy who follows trends. That's why I chose to wear rugged clothing. Also the fashion business that expanded too big seemed to be very vague for me and I felt comfortable in rugged fashion. Fashion brands and magazines together have desperately kept introducing trends in fashion to enlarge the market. And after all, we see the mountain of discarded clothes that went out of fashion. But now, some people begin to know that fashion is meaningless in a sense. And I stopped following fashion trends by being stuck on the rugged style.
Unfortunately some fashion firms are trying to imitate the rugged fashion in their collections recently. They look for another theme every season and now "rugged" items are their tools to lure people. But sooner or later their so called "rugged" will be unmasked. I understand that fashion is a part of culture. But I'm so sure that fashion itself will never create culture and it is only business procedure that built on vanity and lapse of the time. In this sense being rugged is completely different from fashion.
譯文：
我們都知道一個人的穿著在給別人形成第一印象的時候有關鍵性的影響。在商務會談中尤其在時裝產業，一個人的品味舉足輕重，所以自我展現顯得更加重要。對我來説，如果我的客戶身穿不系扣的高領襯衫和雅痞風格的西裝，我會感到很緊張。因爲著裝的差異，我甚至會覺得這筆生意將很難完成。但是在日本的時裝界，我遇到了很多這樣的艷俗著裝者。也許對於這些人，他們也會跟我感到一樣的緊張，因爲我的vintage著裝似乎和他們的著裝潛規則（dress-code）起了衝突。在我的觀念當中，著裝代表了一個人的個性和態度，這也是爲什麽我們要注意自己的穿戴，有時甚至借此來把自己僞裝成另一種性格。
對於我來説很確定的一點是，我唯獨選擇vintage一種風格。我從來不想被視爲追逐時尚人群中的一員。這也是爲什麽我只穿Rugged的衣物。並且那些規模太大的時裝企業讓我感覺含糊不清，在vintage衣物中我才能感覺自在。時裝品牌和雜誌爲了擴大市場份額，一直處心積慮聯手致力於介紹新的時尚潮流。結果造成了被遺棄的過時衣物堆積成山。但是現在有人開始發現時尚在某種程度上來說是沒有意義的。我個人也早已把自己定格在vintage風格，停止追逐時尚。
不幸的是，近年來有些時裝品牌試圖在他們的新品中模仿Rugged風格。他們每年都在尋找新的主題，而“vintage”成爲他們引誘消費者的最新工具。但他們所謂的“vintage”遲早會被拆穿。我明白時尚也是文化中的一個部分。但我很確定時尚本身不能製造任何文化，因爲它只是建立在人們虛榮心和時間輪回之上的商業手段。由此可見，追逐vintage和追逐時尚是完全不同的事情。
我們都知道一個人的穿著在給別人形成第一印象的時候有關鍵性的影響。在商務會談中尤其在時裝產業，一個人的品味舉足輕重，所以自我展現顯得更加重要。對我來説，如果我的客戶身穿不系扣的高領襯衫和雅痞風格的西裝，我會感到很緊張。因爲著裝的差異，我甚至會覺得這筆生意將很難完成。但是在日本的時裝界，我遇到了很多這樣的艷俗著裝者。也許對於這些人，他們也會跟我感到一樣的緊張，因爲我的vintage著裝似乎和他們的著裝潛規則（dress-code）起了衝突。在我的觀念當中，著裝代表了一個人的個性和態度，這也是爲什麽我們要注意自己的穿戴，有時甚至借此來把自己僞裝成另一種性格。
對於我來説很確定的一點是，我唯獨選擇vintage一種風格。我從來不想被視爲追逐時尚人群中的一員。這也是爲什麽我只穿Rugged的衣物。並且那些規模太大的時裝企業讓我感覺含糊不清，在vintage衣物中我才能感覺自在。時裝品牌和雜誌爲了擴大市場份額，一直處心積慮聯手致力於介紹新的時尚潮流。結果造成了被遺棄的過時衣物堆積成山。但是現在有人開始發現時尚在某種程度上來說是沒有意義的。我個人也早已把自己定格在vintage風格，停止追逐時尚。
不幸的是，近年來有些時裝品牌試圖在他們的新品中模仿Rugged風格。他們每年都在尋找新的主題，而“vintage”成爲他們引誘消費者的最新工具。但他們所謂的“vintage”遲早會被拆穿。我明白時尚也是文化中的一個部分。但我很確定時尚本身不能製造任何文化，因爲它只是建立在人們虛榮心和時間輪回之上的商業手段。由此可見，追逐vintage和追逐時尚是完全不同的事情。
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