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VDP-来自德国百年顶级产区和创意酿酒师的优质葡萄酒

(2012-04-16 03:30:07)
标签:

杂谈

vdp

顶级酒庄联盟

德国葡萄酒

分类: VDP协会

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VDP-来自百年顶级产区和创意酿酒师的优质葡萄酒

界上最古老的葡萄酒庄园协会VDP,自其1910年成立以来,一直致力于建立高标准的产区、质量、生产者,三位一体德国葡萄酒文化。现在它拥有大约200个顶级酒庄成员,坚持以传统方式生产更高品质的葡萄酒为共同目标过去的一个世纪中,VDP以其打破常规甚至标新立异的方法,极大的提高了葡萄园管理技术和葡萄酒酿造技术。但同样重要的是,VDP的酒和一流的活动重燃了德国大众乃至世界对于德国高品质葡萄酒的兴趣。

 

VDP的由来

VDP全称为Verband Deutscher Qualitäts und Prädikatsweingüter,为高品质与顶级庄园协会。至此,这保护伞般的称谓便赐予德国最高级别的葡萄酒。这个协会的名字代表着旗下成员以品质为目标的酿酒理念。事实上,该协会的原名为Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer,德国“天然葡萄酒”(natural wine)拍卖协会,成员只允许在拍卖会上出售未经加糖酿造的葡萄酒。半个多世纪中,“天然葡萄酒”意味着利用天然收获的葡萄,不添加糖分,用葡萄自身所含有的糖分进行酒精发酵而得到的高品质酒。之后,由于70年代的法律修改,协会便从此改名Verband Deutscher Qualitäts und Prädikatsweingüter

 

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雄鹰标志

VDP在其历史上不止一次地的设计徽标,以提高其葡萄酒的价值认同。首先是便是一只雄鹰,内含一串葡萄果实。自1926年创立以来VDP雄鹰基本保持不变。 1982年,成员同意在他们的包装上使用,尔在1991年后,在瓶塞上使用。

本世纪初,在协会内部的分级制度下,另一个高于法定标准的代表德国最优质产区的标志“Erste Lage”在协会内被采用,该标志由阿拉伯数字1和一串葡萄果实组成,以用于区分高级产区所生产的最高端葡萄酒。

 

会员标准

VDP会员要求严格遵守设立的独立标准,这个标准远远超过法律规定的标准。除了有自己的酿造技术和酒窖设施,成员必须减少葡萄产量并选择性收获( 对于最高级别葡萄酒,必须手工采摘筛选) 以取得最更高的葡萄酒品质。 对于葡萄品种,成员的葡萄园中必须有绝大部分(80%以上)是使用当地传统品种,如雷司令和皮诺家族。 成员还必须保护葡萄园中的葡萄,土壤,使得它们与自然环境协调,如:实施生态保护措施,运用可持续葡萄种植技术,使用传统的酿造方法等。所有的庄园及其葡萄酒,都会被定期检查和认证,以确保从庄园打理到葡萄酒酿造的高标准。

近年来,协会成员已一致使用一套内部的葡萄园等级划分标准,以确保VDP未来所有葡萄园的声誉。他们深知光靠理想化的要求每寸土地都培育出卓越的葡萄品质是不现实也不可行的,所以推出了园区酒。 VDP要求园酒必须是从顶级且有地域特色的葡萄园采收酿造的,在此前提下,才可以在酒标上使用该葡萄园的名字。依靠这套分级系统,VDP的规范已经远高于传统德国葡萄酒立法。因此,葡萄酒标上地域的标注越是精细,其拥有的质量也越高。

 

大事记

VDP酿酒师们坚持不懈的努力着。酿他们除了每年春季参加传统(自1973年)的美因茨葡萄酒交易会,还会定期参加各种德国和全球的葡萄酒交易会的品评和竞赛。他们每年不定期举办区域葡萄酒拍卖会,高端酒拍卖会和稀有葡萄酒品拍卖会。自2001年,VDP又新增了一项活动--VDP美酒嘉年华,该酒会以顶级酒,美食和各类文艺演出活动而声名远播。

2010年,为庆祝百年庆典,VDP为专业人士和葡萄酒爱好者策划了一系列令人惊叹的活动,使得他们对VDP酿酒师及其优质的葡萄有了更深的了解。

 

VDP的质量

一如往常,对于品质的探讨是当今葡萄酒业界的热门话题,但只有很少能给出确切的定义和指标。庄园主的口碑建立在其所拥有的葡萄园上。对于葡萄,产量和质量是永恒的指标,高产量必然导致底质量,因而严格的修剪是关键。对于采收,同样严格控制以达到最好的葡萄品质。此后,经酿造后的葡萄酒在沉睡期,会形成其独特的风格,以达到其真正的潜力,直到装瓶。每个VDP庄园主都有自己的风格,因此顶级酒,从干白到贵腐,也会千差万别,风格迥异。有的酒在年轻时期已足具风味,而有的酒则需要更多的岁月才能显现其光芒。在幽深的拱形酒窖中深藏沉睡多年的稀世陈年珍品,常常是世界各地的葡萄酒爱好者们竞相收购的投资对象。

 

VDP的分级模式

-德国独立庄园分类里程碑

总体来说, VDP协会为葡萄酒质量标准提供了一个统一的框架。VDP地区协会则可以在此基础上制定更为严格的标准。在瓶塞上的VDP雄鹰标致保证了生态保护型的葡萄园管理手段及酿造工艺,传统的葡萄酒生产技术,定期的感官评定和质量监督以确保品质,以及合理的市场营销措施。“ERSTE LAGE”(Premiere Classe)和GROSSES GEWÄCHS”(Grand Cru)是私有商标,而对于莱茵高区来说,这些酒就被命名为“Erstes Gewächs”(Premier Cru

 

VDP的分级标准

VDP分级的依据不仅仅是以收获时葡萄糖分的含量进行定义,并且融进了风土这一概念,是两者的结合体。风土是关键,据此,使用大产区命名,或者使用收购葡萄和非顶级葡萄园就被不可能被纳入该等级。只有具有典型的风土特色的葡萄酒才有资格使用葡萄园的名字。风土由三部分决定:(1)一个葡萄园的总体水平和特色;(2)葡萄种植的技术;(3)年份。风土是可以在葡萄酒中体现出来的。葡萄园的品质由它的土壤决定,如地形地貌,葡萄园位置,气候,及周围环境。除此以外,只有特定的葡萄品种才能够很好的适应有特色的风土。我们对于最好的葡萄园选址和最合适的葡萄品种是依据几个世纪的葡萄种植经验。

 

VDP的分级

第一级别:顶级产区:ERSTE LAGE,来自德国最好的葡萄园的顶级葡萄酒.

干葡萄酒被指定为Grosses GewächErstes Gewächs(莱茵高地区)有着自然甜味果味浓郁的葡萄酒由传统的Prädikats表示。产地好的、严谨的区别是依赖于明显的地域品质。指定的葡萄品种和口味。最大产量为5000/公顷。选择用手工收获。最小重量必须等同于Spätlese(葡萄成熟度略高于一般成熟)。自然甜葡萄酒允许最早次年51日上市,而全干葡萄酒是次年91日,而红酒在收获陈酿1年以后才允许上市.

 

第二级别:高级产区:KLASSIFIZIERTE LAGE / ORTSWEIN / TERROIRWEIN,注明葡萄园产区的高品质葡萄酒.

只有从高级别的葡萄园址中生产的葡萄酒才能够在酒标上使用葡萄园的名称。 这一等级同样有着高于一般法定要求的标准, 实际上,在满足一般法定标准的众多葡萄园中只有一小部分才能达到这个标准。他们是一些传统的具有鲜明特色的葡萄园。口感方面没有限制。最大产量为6500/公顷,指定葡萄品种并且最低含糖量VDP地区协会决定。

 

 

第三级别优质产区:Gutswein,能反映区域特点的优质质葡萄酒.

VDP要求,在这一分级的庄园中,至少有80%的葡萄园需种植该区域典型的传统葡萄品种。最高产量为7500/公顷.最低含糖量由VDP地区协会决定。(需高于法律规定)

 

 

VDP – A century of fine wines from top sites and creative vintners

Since its founding in 1910, the VDP, the world’s oldest association of wine estates, has been committed to the correlation of producer/site/quality, a trinity that has helped set high standards in German wine culture. Today, it comprises some 200 very individualistic vintners who share a deep commitment to tradition and above all, to high quality. In the course of the past century, the VDP’s modus operandi has often been unconventional, even controversial, yet it has greatly contributed to improvements in vineyard management and winemaking. Last but not least, VDP wines and first-class events have also helped rekindle an interest in and appreciation for fine German wine in Germany and abroad.

What’s in a name?

Verband Deutscher Qualitäts- und Prädikatsweingüter, mercifully abbreviated VDP, literally means: The Association of German Quality and Prädikat Wine Estates. And, what about “Prädikat”? A Prädikat is simply a special attribute. In this case, an umbrella term used to denote the highest category of quality wines produced in Germany. The name of the association reflects the quality-oriented philosophy practiced by its members.

No less daunting in length was the association’s original name: Verband Deutscher Naturweinversteigerer, i.e. estates that sold their “natural” (unchaptalized) wines at auction. For more than half a century, “natural wine” was synonymous with unadulterated wine of high quality. The concept was not embraced by everyone in the German wine industry. With the passage of the German wine law of 1969/1971, the term was prohibited, and the association was forced to adopt a new name. They simply replaced the designation “natural” with “Prädikat.”

In the sign of the eagle

More than once in its history the VDP has devised logos to enhance the recognition value of its wines. First and foremost is the “VDP eagle,” a stylized eagle bearing a cluster of grapes. Since its creation in 1926, the VDP eagle has basically remained unchanged. In 1982, members agreed to the mandatory use of the logo in their packaging and since 1991, on capsules.

With the advent of its in-house classification system at the start of this century, an additional logo was created to signal the VDP’s premium wines from an “Erste Lage" – top site: a stylized numeral one that partially frames a cluster of grapes Once again, the legalities of nomenclature came into play: the German wine law does not recognize the designation Erste Lage, ergo it is illegal.

Membership

The requirements for membership in the VDP are demanding and require adherence to self-imposed standards that well exceed the minimums prescribed by law. In addition to having their own winemaking and cellar facilities, members agree to reduced yields, higher starting must weights, and selective harvesting (for the finest wines, by hand) to foster higher quality. Their vineyards are planted primarily (80%) with traditional varietals, such as Riesling or the Pinot family, that are typical of their region. Members are obligated to care for their vines and soils in harmony with nature, i.e. practice ecologically friendly, sustainable viticulture, and use traditional winemaking techniques. Estates and their wines are inspected and certified on a regular basis to ensure ongoing high standards, from vineyard maintenance to cellar technology.

In recent years, members have agreed to an in-house vineyard classification system in order to secure a common viticultural heritage for the future. Classified growths are subject to very stringent production criteria. It is neither credible nor possible for every parcel of every site to bring forth wines of outstanding quality. The use of a vineyard name on a label is reserved for wines sourced from top sites that show site-specific characteristics. With its classification system, the VDP has made a marked departure from many of the tenets of German wine legislature. Yet the VDP’s venture into terra incognita on behalf of terroir has already achieved a remarkable, albeit small, following in Germany and abroad.

Events

VDP winemakers are on the go. They regularly participate in tastings and competitions. They present their wines at domestic and international trade fairs, not least at their own Weinbörse in Mainz every spring – a tradition since 1973. They organize regional wine auctions annually and occasionally, a fine wine and rarities auction. A new tradition made its debut in 2001: the annual VDP wine ball, already legendary for its first-class wine, food and entertainment.

In 2010, as it celebrates in centennial, the VDP has come up with a spectacular agenda of events (www.vdp.de) for professionals and wine enthusiasts alike. There’s no better time to become acquainted with the fine wines and winemakers of the VDP.

Vineyard classification - preservation of Germany's finest vineyard sites

One of the greatest challenges the Prädikat wine estates have dealt with – past and present – is the preservation of Germany’’s finest vineyard sites. Using Burgundy as a model, the VDP began to estab-lish a private vineyard classification of its members’ vineyard sites in 2001. A three-stage pyramid ensued. Wines are classified according to their origin, as follows:

  • Gutsweine (house wines), labeled with a proprietary, village or regional name.
  • klassifizierte Lagenweine (wines from a classified/superior site), labeled with a vineyard site name.
  • Erste Lage (wines from a top site), labeled with a vineyard site name and the logo, a numeral “one” next to a stylized cluster of grapes – embossed on the bottle or in the background of the labels, behind the name of the vineyard site.    

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