加载中…有感于：特鲁姆普 你的皮头怎么了？----皮头选购和安装
(2013-03-02 19:06:50)
http://s9/bmiddle/6d71118ch7be4846205e8&690<wbr>你的皮头怎么了？----皮头选购和安装" TITLE="有感于：特鲁姆普
Judd Trump added one more ways into Dumb Ways to Die----Use Broken
Cue Tips to Match.
CCTV5转播时，床铺君的坏皮头问题被现场的两位解说的重点讲到，想想也是一般大家都忽略了皮头在比赛中发挥的生死攸关作用。所以，不懂就补上知识，有问题问度娘嘛！
http://s3/bmiddle/6d71118chd6ed2f898422&690<wbr>你的皮头怎么了？----皮头选购和安装" TITLE="有感于：特鲁姆普
斯诺克皮头选购
皮头（也叫杆头、枪头），Cue Tips。皮头通常使用猪皮或牛皮压制而成，有一定弹性，安装在球杆顶端。球杆皮头对于球杆来说至关重要，球杆再好，配的皮头不合适也会限制球杆性能的发挥。
主流皮头品牌：
斯诺克皮头很多，比较知名的有：
英国：MikeWooldridge、Talisman、米字
美国：三角、鹿牌、宾士域蓝钻、塔牌、HI-Chrome、蓝武士、M1
泰国：O'MIN、Master
日本：卡姆、魔拉米亚
台湾：YTT
中国：LP、BS、LK.T、先美、羚羊
皮头直径的选择：
斯诺克皮头直径有9mm、10mm、10.5mm、11mm，其中10mm和11mm是最常用的。
建议选择比自己球杆杆头直径稍微大一点的皮头，这样便于修理。比如球杆杆头直径9.8，就选用10mm皮头。皮头太大了比较浪费，修理也比较麻烦。太小了不美观，也会限制球杆性能的发挥。有的朋友喜欢修理成蘑菇装皮头，就是皮头顶端比较大，打球时接触面更大，旋转效果好，就更应该选择大一些的皮头，否则不能修理成蘑菇头。
皮头软硬度的选择：
不同品牌的皮头硬度差别很大。宾士域蓝钻非常软，O'MIN和塔牌非常硬，其他品牌的硬度也各有分别。
皮头软硬的选择主要和打球的风格有关。
喜欢大开大合，大力爆杆的朋友适合用硬一些的，打起来当当作响，很有气势。缺点是小范围内不容易控制母球，力度小的时候容易滑杆。
喜欢运用杆法，小范围加塞，要求走位精确的朋友适合用软一些的，缺点是打起球来感觉比较肉，击球声音比较小，远距离不容易控制。
对于大多数爱好者来说，建议尽量用弹性硬度中等的皮头，并且用皮头中和一下球杆的硬度，也就是比较硬的球杆配软一些的皮头，偏软的球杆配硬一些的皮头。
皮头的使用寿命：
斯诺克皮头寿命比较短，一般2-3个月需要更换一次。这要看球杆使用的频繁程度以及使用方式。
皮头坏了，开胶了，掉了一块，或者用久了已经很薄了，就需要更换新的了。
正常使用情况下，硬皮头寿命更长一些。
皮头硬度与弹性的关系：
除了硬度外，皮头的弹性是很关键的。
一般来讲，皮头的弹性与硬度成反比，也就是越硬的皮头弹性越差一些。例如在使用者中口碑很好的宾士域蓝钻皮头非常软，但是弹性极好，可以说是皮头中的标志性品牌。
多层皮头与单层皮头的选择：
多层皮头通常用于九球杆，多层压制的皮头可以尽可能保证球杆各个角度击球感觉比较均匀，这与九球杆都使用枫木前节的特点有关。
斯诺克皮头通常都是单层皮压制的，因为斯诺克球杆还是用白蜡木前支的比较多，而且球杆使用上基本保持一个方向，也就是后把标牌的面始终朝上，不需要皮头各个面的性能均等。现在也有部分高端皮头使用多层压制，有人觉得很好，有人觉得不好，具体是不是适合您需要自己体会一下。
建议：
1、初级爱好者，在不清楚自己的打球特点的时候，尽量选用硬度、弹性中等的皮头。
2、不一定越贵的皮头就越好，适合您的才是好的。
3、皮头是消耗品，不建议一开始就买很多高档皮头。
4、有条件尽量换不同品牌的皮头试试，找到适合自己特点的。在此之前，不要大量购买单一品牌。
5、不要购买假冒伪劣产品。别看皮头不起眼，技术含量很高，真假产品性能差别很大。
6、皮头的颜色与性能无关。
皮头的安装
1、用刀片切掉保护皮头，露出铜箍和木头。
2、用锉刀（或砂纸建议用砂纸）修整，使铜箍和木头的端面在同一平面内。
3、用沙纸研磨端面及皮头低平面。
4、用刀片刮取适量胶水，均匀地涂在端面和皮头的低平面上。
5、用固定器将皮头固定在球杆上。如果没有固定器可用硬器轻轻击打杆头；或将球杆立起，垂直向下用皮头轻击地面。
6、打磨皮头，打磨到自己想要的厚度，外形就可以了，安装皮头就完成了。
更换皮头视频演示：
http://www.mysnooker.cn/bbs/topic16564.html
最后，希望王牌重现夺冠吧！
http://s13/bmiddle/6d71118chd6ed373d9edc&690<wbr>你的皮头怎么了？----皮头选购和安装" TITLE="有感于：特鲁姆普
然后，商量和里里怎么分奖金。或是找个靠谱点儿的黑发女友吧。
http://s2/mw690/6d71118chd6ed433f8e71&690<wbr>你的皮头怎么了？----皮头选购和安装" TITLE="有感于：特鲁姆普
Tips
Leather tips of varying degrees of shapes and hardness are affixed to the ferrule. The standard shapes for a tip are nickel and dime, determined by shaping a tip so that when one puts a nickel or dime to it, they are the same curvature. Quarter-shaped tips are less common, though are usually used for breaking cues because less curvature means less accidental spin and more accuracy for a straight shot such as the break.
Rounder tips impart English (more colloquially known as spin) more easily since the point of contact between a tip and the cue ball requires less distance from the center hit to do the same amount of spin due to the increased tangential contact. Tips are sometimes made of harder materials such as phenolic resin because it is favored upon for a break cue (Breaks usually require less spin, thus less round harder tips preserve the shape of the tip longer without sacrificing the effectiveness of the break).
The tip end of the cue will vary in diameter but is typically in the 11 to 14 millimeter ('mm') range with 13 mm for pool cues being most common and 9.5 mm for Snooker cues being most common.
A leather tip naturally compresses and hardens with subsequent shots. Without proper care, the surface of the tip can develop an undesired smoothness or glossiness which can significantly reduce the desired friction between the tip and the cue ball. Cue chalk is applied to the tip of the cue, ideally after every shot, to help achieve the desired friction and minimize the chance of a miscue. This is especially important when the cue tip does not hit the cue ball in its center and thereby imparts spin to the cue ball.
There are different grades of hardness for tips, ranging from very soft to very hard. Softer tips like "Elk Master" hold chalk better, but tend to degrade faster from abrasion (from chalk and scuffers), shaping (from cue tip shapers/tackers/picks), and mushrooming (from normal use or hard hits that compact the tip from all directions). Harder tips like "Triangle" and "Le Professional" ("Le Pro") maintain their shape much better, but because of their hardness, chalk tends to not hold as well as it does on softer tips. The hardness of a leather tip is determined from its compression and tanning during the manufacturing process.
All cue tips once were of a one-piece construction, like "LePro" or "Triangle". More recently some tips are made of layers that are laminated together, like "Moori" and "Talisman". Harder tips and laminated tips hold their shape better than softer tips and one-piece tips. Laminated tips generally cost more than one-piece tips due to their more extensive manufacturing process. A potential problem with laminated tips is delamination, where a layer begins to separate from another or completely comes apart. Delamination is not common and usually results from improper installation, misuse of tip tools, or high impact masse' shots. One-piece tips are not subject to this problem, but they do tend to mushroom more easily, which is when the sides of the tip bulge out.
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