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HIGHLAND PARK 高原骑士
(2015-03-29 19:39:17)
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杂谈 |
Orkney is like no other park of Scotland:
Second World War airfields lie next to preCeltic burial mounds,cathedrals close to
stone circles,layered civilisations, ancient and modern. Orkney is in tune with its strange past and slightly fearful ,like any remote community in these days of centralisation ,of its future. There are echoes of this duality at Highland Park,which is tapping into old lore of whisky making while taking radical steps into the 21st century.
奥克尼群岛不像苏格兰的其他地方：这里，第二次世界大战飞机场地旁边是前凯尔特人墓地，教堂旁边是石圈，古代现代文明层次分明。奥克尼与它奇特的历史相得益彰，对未来也不畏惧，即使是偏远地区。这是高原骑士的双重性，这款威士忌有着古老的典故，迈着激进的步子进入21世纪。
In the low light of a Y-shape malt barn,Jimmy Shearer takes me on a vivid tour through the life of a grain barley. He has been a maltman here for 30 years,and knows how many tons of malt he has steeped,turned,grubbed and fed into the kiln .The astounding 25-year-old malt was made with barley turned bu Jimmy,which helps to put things into perspective.
借着Y形麦芽仓库里微弱的光，吉米给我上了关于麦芽谷物一堂生动的课，他专门研究麦芽已经30年了，他知道他浸泡了多少吨麦芽，变成多少吨麦芽，选择多少放入烘烤室。数量惊人有着25年历史的麦芽和谷物一起有助于吉米正确的观察一些事物。
The process of floor malting seems timeless,but there have been subtle changes . New varieties are appearing every year,and though most are tested ,not all can stand up to the handling involved in floor malting,where a thicker shell is required. Highland PArk(Like Laphroaig,Bowmore,Balvenie and Springbank)2has retained this traditional method of making malt for some of its requirements. For Jimmy it has become second nature :checking the growth of the grain by splitting the husk grain between his nails and seeing how big the white spike of starch is;knowing when to turn the floor, how thick to lay it depending on the weather. As he says:＇If you don't get the growth right ,you won't get good malt.'It seems complicated,so many little things can go wrong .'If you worry about it,it's no use ,'he says,dismissing that idea with a grin,but then he has been at it for 30 years.
地铺式发芽过程看起来是不变的，但是也是有细微改变的。每年都会有不一样的东西出现，尽管大多数都只是试试，地铺式发芽需要一定的厚度，并不是所有的测试都能应用到其中。高原骑士还有拉弗格、鲍莫尔、百富、云顶为了某些需要保留了这个传统的制作麦芽的方法。对于吉米来说这个方法成了这款威士忌的第二特性：用手捏开谷糠看白穗有多少淀粉来检验谷物的生长，知道什么时候翻转这些谷物，要铺多厚要看天气。正如他说的：“如果麦芽得不到正确的生长，你就得不到好的麦芽。这似乎很复杂，很多细小的东西都可能错。“即使你担心也没有用。”他说，说完莞尔一笑，但是确实他在这个领域已经有30年的历史了。
Retaining the floor maltings is more than just a matter of pride,it is a fundamental part of the Highland Park profile.＇We like to think it's our barley that makes the difference＇says Jimmy.＇We got some peated malt from somewhere else once and we didn't like it ; it didn't like our peated malt ,it was coarer. We should stick with our our own.'
获得地铺式麦芽不仅是件令人骄傲的事，它还是高原骑士的基础部分。“我们都觉得是我们的麦子才取得了这些不同。”吉米说，“我们曾用过别的地方的麦芽，可我们不喜欢，那些麦芽不像我们的麦芽，它是来自泥炭地床的。我们应该坚持我们的风格。”
And they do .＇The secret of Highland Park it that all the peated malt we use it floor floor-malted here and kilned over our own peat,' says manager Jim Robertson.＇The peat draws a huge influence from the heather. The fibrous stuff we use is full of heather roots -even the lower levels are permeated by roots . I＇m sure that gives us that heather-honey influence.'
是的，他们一直都坚持着他们的风格。“高原骑士的秘密在于我们用的是泥炭来烘干麦芽，我们把麦芽铺开在我们的泥炭烘干室上，”经理罗伯特森说，“泥炭受到石楠花的影响。我们石楠花的根部含有纤维，甚至是更底下的层面也渗透着石楠花的根部，我确信这会有石楠花蜜的味道。
After this ultra-traditional welcome it comes as a surprise to find trials taking place in the stillroom with automatic cut control . It's a big change from stillman David Muir's early days.＇We used to have mirrors to see how high the wash still was rising and controlled the stills with steam valves. The stillman was in charge then,' he says . But the chang is quality-driven ,as Jim explains:＇We have made a great effort to get the phenols in ;we want to ensure we get the cut exactly right-it's easy to miss. That doesn't mean the personal touch isn't vital. We rely on people in this industry.'
在迎来了这个超传统的方法后，我们意外的发现在蒸馏室实验发生状况时可以自动切断。这是自酿酒人戴维缪尔早期以来的一个变化。“我们过去常常用镜子来看水洗蒸馏上升到多高了，并且用蒸汽控制阀来控制蒸馏。以前是酿酒人来控制的，”他说。这个常量是由质量来驱动的，正如吉姆解释的那样，“我们做了很大的努力来得到酚，我们要确保我们切断的正是时候，这很容易错过的。那并不是说酚不重要。我们要依靠群众。”
Older distillers techno-fears aren't so much a Luddite response as a worry that the character of their whisky many change. The people at Highland Park regard theirsnot as a product but as a part of themselves. They feel it and nurture it from the barley to the bottle. That's a skill no machine can replicate ,a skill that has given the world this perfect synthesis of honyed fruit,fragrant peat smoke and heather.
老的酿酒师并不是像卢德分子那样对科技充满恐惧，他们就是担心威士忌的风格发生很多改变。在他们心中，高原骑士不单单是一个产品而是他们的一部分。他们去感受它培育它从一颗麦子到酿成就酒装入瓶子。这个技术是机器不可取代的，这项技术给世界带来了融合了水果蜜香，泥炭香，和石楠花香的威士忌。
ABOVE Rolling out the barrel. The drift floors and low roofs of Highland Park's traditional warehouses contribute greatly to its unique flavour.
ABOVE Jimmy shearer has been turning the malt At Highland Park for 30 years ;on link in a human chain.
上面说的这些香味都从酒桶里散发出来。高原骑士传统仓库的漂移层和它的矮屋顶给了它独特的风味。吉米在高原骑士酿酒厂已经有30年了，是人类链中重要一环。
TASTING NOTES品尝要点
Highland Park 12-year-old高原骑士12年
A gorgeous,honyed combination of heather root ,sweet spices,fruit peel/marmalade and a drift of peat smoke . A seductive dram that mixes butter tablet,dried berbs and heather-honey,all bound together bu that wispy peat smke.
Highland Park 18-year-old 43%ABV
Soft ,with dried fruit ,butter tablet and sherry. Silky-smooth ,rich and complex. Slightly sweeter than the 12-year-old,with some chocolate,heather,polished wood and Moorish spices. Complex and rewarding.＊＊＊＊＊
绮丽的综合了，石南根，甜香料，果皮/果酱和点滴的泥炭味。点滴诱人，混合黄油、干草和石南蜂蜜、泥炭味道。
高原骑士18年 酒精度43%
柔软，带着干果，黄油和雪利酒味道。如丝般光滑，丰富而复杂的。稍微比12年的甜，还有巧克力，石楠花，抛光的木材和摩尔人的香料味，浓厚值得回味。
http://s7/original/001XJQJdzy6R584AfvEc6&690PARK高原骑士" />
http://s7/original/001XJQJdzy6R586rAEe96&690PARK高原骑士" />
Second World War airfields lie next to preCeltic burial mounds,cathedrals close to
stone circles,layered civilisations, ancient and modern. Orkney is in tune with its strange past and slightly fearful ,like any remote community in these days of centralisation ,of its future. There are echoes of this duality at Highland Park,which is tapping into old lore of whisky making while taking radical steps into the 21st century.
奥克尼群岛不像苏格兰的其他地方：这里，第二次世界大战飞机场地旁边是前凯尔特人墓地，教堂旁边是石圈，古代现代文明层次分明。奥克尼与它奇特的历史相得益彰，对未来也不畏惧，即使是偏远地区。这是高原骑士的双重性，这款威士忌有着古老的典故，迈着激进的步子进入21世纪。
In the low light of a Y-shape malt barn,Jimmy Shearer takes me on a vivid tour through the life of a grain barley. He has been a maltman here for 30 years,and knows how many tons of malt he has steeped,turned,grubbed and fed into the kiln .The astounding 25-year-old malt was made with barley turned bu Jimmy,which helps to put things into perspective.
借着Y形麦芽仓库里微弱的光，吉米给我上了关于麦芽谷物一堂生动的课，他专门研究麦芽已经30年了，他知道他浸泡了多少吨麦芽，变成多少吨麦芽，选择多少放入烘烤室。数量惊人有着25年历史的麦芽和谷物一起有助于吉米正确的观察一些事物。
The process of floor malting seems timeless,but there have been subtle changes . New varieties are appearing every year,and though most are tested ,not all can stand up to the handling involved in floor malting,where a thicker shell is required. Highland PArk(Like Laphroaig,Bowmore,Balvenie and Springbank)2has retained this traditional method of making malt for some of its requirements. For Jimmy it has become second nature :checking the growth of the grain by splitting the husk grain between his nails and seeing how big the white spike of starch is;knowing when to turn the floor, how thick to lay it depending on the weather. As he says:＇If you don't get the growth right ,you won't get good malt.'It seems complicated,so many little things can go wrong .'If you worry about it,it's no use ,'he says,dismissing that idea with a grin,but then he has been at it for 30 years.
地铺式发芽过程看起来是不变的，但是也是有细微改变的。每年都会有不一样的东西出现，尽管大多数都只是试试，地铺式发芽需要一定的厚度，并不是所有的测试都能应用到其中。高原骑士还有拉弗格、鲍莫尔、百富、云顶为了某些需要保留了这个传统的制作麦芽的方法。对于吉米来说这个方法成了这款威士忌的第二特性：用手捏开谷糠看白穗有多少淀粉来检验谷物的生长，知道什么时候翻转这些谷物，要铺多厚要看天气。正如他说的：“如果麦芽得不到正确的生长，你就得不到好的麦芽。这似乎很复杂，很多细小的东西都可能错。“即使你担心也没有用。”他说，说完莞尔一笑，但是确实他在这个领域已经有30年的历史了。
Retaining the floor maltings is more than just a matter of pride,it is a fundamental part of the Highland Park profile.＇We like to think it's our barley that makes the difference＇says Jimmy.＇We got some peated malt from somewhere else once and we didn't like it ; it didn't like our peated malt ,it was coarer. We should stick with our our own.'
获得地铺式麦芽不仅是件令人骄傲的事，它还是高原骑士的基础部分。“我们都觉得是我们的麦子才取得了这些不同。”吉米说，“我们曾用过别的地方的麦芽，可我们不喜欢，那些麦芽不像我们的麦芽，它是来自泥炭地床的。我们应该坚持我们的风格。”
And they do .＇The secret of Highland Park it that all the peated malt we use it floor floor-malted here and kilned over our own peat,' says manager Jim Robertson.＇The peat draws a huge influence from the heather. The fibrous stuff we use is full of heather roots -even the lower levels are permeated by roots . I＇m sure that gives us that heather-honey influence.'
是的，他们一直都坚持着他们的风格。“高原骑士的秘密在于我们用的是泥炭来烘干麦芽，我们把麦芽铺开在我们的泥炭烘干室上，”经理罗伯特森说，“泥炭受到石楠花的影响。我们石楠花的根部含有纤维，甚至是更底下的层面也渗透着石楠花的根部，我确信这会有石楠花蜜的味道。
After this ultra-traditional welcome it comes as a surprise to find trials taking place in the stillroom with automatic cut control . It's a big change from stillman David Muir's early days.＇We used to have mirrors to see how high the wash still was rising and controlled the stills with steam valves. The stillman was in charge then,' he says . But the chang is quality-driven ,as Jim explains:＇We have made a great effort to get the phenols in ;we want to ensure we get the cut exactly right-it's easy to miss. That doesn't mean the personal touch isn't vital. We rely on people in this industry.'
在迎来了这个超传统的方法后，我们意外的发现在蒸馏室实验发生状况时可以自动切断。这是自酿酒人戴维缪尔早期以来的一个变化。“我们过去常常用镜子来看水洗蒸馏上升到多高了，并且用蒸汽控制阀来控制蒸馏。以前是酿酒人来控制的，”他说。这个常量是由质量来驱动的，正如吉姆解释的那样，“我们做了很大的努力来得到酚，我们要确保我们切断的正是时候，这很容易错过的。那并不是说酚不重要。我们要依靠群众。”
Older distillers techno-fears aren't so much a Luddite response as a worry that the character of their whisky many change. The people at Highland Park regard theirsnot as a product but as a part of themselves. They feel it and nurture it from the barley to the bottle. That's a skill no machine can replicate ,a skill that has given the world this perfect synthesis of honyed fruit,fragrant peat smoke and heather.
老的酿酒师并不是像卢德分子那样对科技充满恐惧，他们就是担心威士忌的风格发生很多改变。在他们心中，高原骑士不单单是一个产品而是他们的一部分。他们去感受它培育它从一颗麦子到酿成就酒装入瓶子。这个技术是机器不可取代的，这项技术给世界带来了融合了水果蜜香，泥炭香，和石楠花香的威士忌。
ABOVE Rolling out the barrel. The drift floors and low roofs of Highland Park's traditional warehouses contribute greatly to its unique flavour.
ABOVE Jimmy shearer has been turning the malt At Highland Park for 30 years ;on link in a human chain.
上面说的这些香味都从酒桶里散发出来。高原骑士传统仓库的漂移层和它的矮屋顶给了它独特的风味。吉米在高原骑士酿酒厂已经有30年了，是人类链中重要一环。
TASTING NOTES品尝要点
Highland Park 12-year-old高原骑士12年
A gorgeous,honyed combination of heather root ,sweet spices,fruit peel/marmalade and a drift of peat smoke . A seductive dram that mixes butter tablet,dried berbs and heather-honey,all bound together bu that wispy peat smke.
Highland Park 18-year-old 43%ABV
Soft ,with dried fruit ,butter tablet and sherry. Silky-smooth ,rich and complex. Slightly sweeter than the 12-year-old,with some chocolate,heather,polished wood and Moorish spices. Complex and rewarding.＊＊＊＊＊
绮丽的综合了，石南根，甜香料，果皮/果酱和点滴的泥炭味。点滴诱人，混合黄油、干草和石南蜂蜜、泥炭味道。
高原骑士18年 酒精度43%
柔软，带着干果，黄油和雪利酒味道。如丝般光滑，丰富而复杂的。稍微比12年的甜，还有巧克力，石楠花，抛光的木材和摩尔人的香料味，浓厚值得回味。
http://s7/original/001XJQJdzy6R584AfvEc6&690PARK
http://s7/original/001XJQJdzy6R586rAEe96&690PARK
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