四川资中甘露寺（二）：重访_吉燠

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四川资中甘露寺（二）：重访

(2016-09-25 00:17:05)

标签：

甘露寺

明代壁画

资中

旅游

甘露寺

时代：明正统十二年

地址：内江市资中县甘露镇甘露寺村

级别：第三批省级文物保护单位

Ganlu Temple or Temple of Sweet Dews

Constructed in the Twelfth Year of Zhengtong Era, Ming Dynasty (1447 AD)

Located in Ganlu Temple Village, Ganlu Town, Zizhong County, Neijiang City, Sichuan

Registered in the Third Batch of Historical Sites under Provincial Protection

I made a revisitation to this old but elegant temple after 5 years. The murals were still under thick layers of dust and the once glamorous colors kept on fading away and off by days as I had seen them years ago, leaving the faces of the resplendent boddhisvatas and devas unrecognisable. Lamentably, nothing seems to have ever been done to preserve or restore this precious hersitage.

五年之后，我重访了此庙，老旧却还雅致。殿中的壁画依然蒙在一层厚厚的灰尘之下，青紫金蓝和我数年前看到的一样，还在慢慢褪去。庄严菩萨，肃肃诸天，面目已不大可辨。也没看出做过什么保护修缮的工作。

Winters of basin-featured Sichuan Province rarely offer clear days to visitors. But my two days' stay here in this hilltop temple was a pleasant surprise. When the sun warmed up the coldness of those time-blackened timbers and mossed stones into a comforting color of saphron, one could not nor would resist the temptation of finding a stepstone somewhere in the courtyard to sit on and join the villagers' casual afternoon neighbor meetups and chats about the weather, the orchards, the working-far-away children and the good old days. And it became even better when an old couple who lived in the Gate Hall of the temple recognized me and we started to remind each other of things that happened during my last visitation. All those fragments of the distant memories were recollected in the cozy, peaceful tranquility and together, rendered that solemn, stupendous building in the background a vigor of life.

四川乃是盆地，冬天天晴见太阳的时候少。不过我在这山顶小庙居停的两日，却是意外的惊喜。太阳将时间染黑的庙木间和青苔爬满的基石上的冷意，暖成了惬意的橘红，于是总忍不住想在院前找块梯子石左下，和乡民们一道，摆起了下午例行的四邻间的闲龙门阵，天气好坏咯，果园子好坏了，在外打工的子女的好坏了，以及从前那些天的美好。住在山门殿的一对老夫妻认出了我，于是开始互相提醒起对方，我上次来访时候的大小事情。过往记忆的雪泥鸿爪，又在这泄泄的午后宁静中重新想起来，让背后那穆穆嶷嶷的大殿也有了些活泼之意。（接领导兄弟批示，此句要改，特改为：住在山门殿的一对老夫妻认出了我，说：“你上次来过的吧。”然后我们就摆晒着太阳摆了会儿龙门阵，那感觉太爽了。）

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