两年前有人问我比较关注哪个男装品牌，我想了片刻，说道：Lanvin。

半年前有人问我比较关注哪个男装品牌，我想都没想，回答：Lanvin。

 

来说说万众瞩目的Lucas Ossendrijver吧，这位带有些许非裔血统的荷兰人，毋庸置疑已成为时尚看客眼中的宝贝了。而我持有一点不同意见的是，他设计的Lanvin是“细柔”，而非“阴柔”。很多人之所以用“阴柔”来形容，理由不外乎于二，一是Lucas每次秀场上选的模特和Dior Homme的很像，二就是Lanvin的衣服很适合那些穿Dior Homme的人穿。当然，这两条理由没有任何说服力，所以还是听我的，用“细柔”吧。其实这个问题Lucas被问及过好几次，每回他的回答都很惊讶：“不会吧，我们是完全两种感觉的品牌。”那么，区别究竟在哪？答案是个行业常用词——优雅。

 

法式优雅，宽松浪漫不紧绷，洋洋洒洒香味浓，这就是Lanvin男装。特征有三：1.蓝色；2.真丝；3.肩线。第二点是Lanvin品牌特征，无须赘言，第一点也是显而易见的，第三点倒是要琢磨琢磨，Lanvin男装的肩线其实挺特别的，特别“宽松”，甚至有点溜肩，恰恰就是这一处，就把“法式”两字弥漫得满城芬芳，这座城就是巴黎了，穿者自然是那些诗人、文人、艺术家、作曲家等等，同时不排除在地铁里拉小提琴的美男子。回过头看，与世无争的Jeanne Lanvin，作为第一个做男装的女装时装屋，这把香火接得着实不容易。无论是Alber Elbaz，还是Lucas Ossendrijver，都挺Lanvin的，谦虚、认真、儒雅、带有无比的浪漫情怀。而Lucas相比于Alber Elbaz，对媒体而言更有种“陌生关怀”，他实干，长得不难看，挺吸引人，系一根细领带，穿一条长短正好的西裤，配一双并不蹩脚的球鞋。虽然他声称快乐只来自于客人喜欢Lanvin的衣服（当然是指能沉浸在从购买到拥有再到穿着的喜悦中），但偶尔也会不甘寂寞的语出惊人。

 

如果有机会，Lanvin男装的配饰是很具品位的投资，无论是拎包还是其他什么的，比如腰封（基本上买不到），都挺特别，做工像女装一样考究，相当于tailor made，价格自然不便宜，这或许是Lanvin的门槛所在。长久以来，和朋友们谈到Lanvin最后总是以东西好卖不好的感叹收尾，可惜是可惜，但从专业角度看，Lanvin的男装和女装在当今时装界，确实有着无法取代的地位。顺带提一句Lanvin在国内的专卖店分布，十分奇特，有回朋友去厦门拍片，深感无聊，我跟她开玩笑，没关系，去我们家Lanvin看看...北到长春，西至重庆，Lanvin还是挺多的，但清一色女装，以及中年富太礼服，体系结构让人摸不着头脑。惟独在香港，还是能很清晰地领略到Lanvin男装的风采。

 

1. You shouldn’t adapt to what people expect you to wear—you should make your clothes your own. For me what’s interesting is to wear the jackets and pants of suits separately.

2. I think it’s distasteful when people buy clothes with logos or brag about what they spend on their clothes. Luxury should be something intimate.

3. Jewelry is very difficult for men, but they can go a little more extreme with shoes and bags. Wear trainers with a suit and the look completely changes.

4. I think clothes are more elegant when they’re nonchalant. You can wear something quite sophisticated but not look too overtly luxurious.

5. Friday-wear is very typically American. You have this office uniform, and then suddenly it’s the weekend and it’s the opposite. I think it’s better to mix the two and make officewear a little less formal and Friday-wear a little less casual.

6. When I was younger I used to wear a lot of T-shirts, but now I wear more and more button-down shirts. I think it’s actually very cool to just have a lot of really great shirts in a very good fabric.

7. It’s important that clothes be light when you’re layering. It’s very nice if you wear three jackets instead of one—but not three suit jackets. I mean a shirt and a shirt jacket and another jacket made out of very light fabric. There’s a richness to that look.

8. A lot of men are very insecure when it comes to dressing. They ask themselves every morning, “What am I going to wear? Is it the right thing? Does it match?” Once they find something they stick to it, and I think that’s a shame. I think men should make a bit more of an effort. They should see clothing not as something necessary but as something fun.

9. There’s something modern about dressing up—wearing a shirt and a tie—but in a lighter way. We made ties that were just strips of fabric-—sometimes in the same fabric as the shirt. It’s a new way to wear a tie.

10. I don’t really like wallets. I prefer that you carry your money in your pocket or put everything in a bag and carry it there. Just keep it simple.